alignment -- figured out

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:51 pm

well, i have a mysterious caster issue, my left front wheel sits about 1/2"-3/4" back compared to the other side, i wanted to try to get it closer back into spec and its still out...

so far i have:

-LH control arm
-control arm bushings
-ball joints
-sway bar
-moved the sub frame forward 1/4" approx

it would make sense that after doing all this, the alignment would have moved somewhat back into spec, especially considering the old control arm was bent back and the old swaybar wasn't centered in the LH swaybar bushing. I figured it was a combination of tweaked swaybar and bent control arm, but the problem presists.

about the only thing i haven't tried is bending the strut tower on the car forward a bit, i think it may have been tweaked too.

any ideas or suggestions?

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:54 pm

actually, to be fair the problem is better now, but i was hoping the difference would be closer to a 1/4 inch than to what it is now.

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Mon Dec 03, 2007 11:23 pm

Mac -
I've renewed everything up front - getting ready to do an alignment - have to check this.
Now - what's a "sub frame?"
Tom M.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:32 am

the sub frame is the black thing that bolts to the body, the engine sits on it and the steering rack bolts to it.

I slotted the holes where it bolts to the body, allowing me to move it forward, since the swaybar bolts to it, moving it forward should move the wheel forward (since the swaybar also holds the control arm in place horizontally.

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 2:57 am

Sounds like the frame was "tweaked" some? I drove a car that had the caster off on both sides...one more than the other for 70K miles...as long as your toe is set right...it should do OK?

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:00 am

OK.....

I called it an X-member, and in the only appearance in the FSM (that I could find), it is called a
"suspension member-to-body."

I certainly remember it, as that is what I removed last year when installing new motor mounts,
as recounted in the "Don't Do It MY Way" thread at the time...
Tom M.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:56 pm

takza wrote:Sounds like the frame was "tweaked" some? I drove a car that had the caster off on both sides...one more than the other for 70K miles...as long as your toe is set right...it should do OK?

yeah, i think i'm just going to have to accept the fact for now, i'm going to set the alignment with some string and dive it that way, I figured out a way to set it on the lotus elise forums.

basically, run a string along the side of the car, get it straight my meauring from the center of the wheels, then set the toe against a tape measure. (not exactly like in the link, but my way will still work)

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ent+string

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:33 pm

I know what the problem is now, the frame mounting point for the control arm has been pushed in towards the center of the car, I realize this now because its the only thing that can explain why the swaybar has been pushed over to the RH side of the car.

my plan is to remove the swaybar (again, ugh) control arm, put a spare bolt i have through the hole that holds the control arm in place to the frame, attatch my come along to there and the shed and pull it out slightly. that should bing everything back into spec again.

I'm going to try pulling it over by about 1/2" or so and see how that works. however, if someone wants to help me out, could someone measure the distance between the two 17mm bolts that hold the control arm to the frame and let me know what it is? I'm using an inch tape, so that would be the best way to measure for me, just from the outer side to the outer side of each bolt (center to center is going to be hard to gauge when i'm climbing under the car)

Typrus? your usually the one who does this kinda stuff, do you know the distance already?

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:53 pm

According to the '86 FSM, the distance between the front insert holes is 675mm (26.57").
The distance between the back holes (into the nuts) is 760mm (29.92").

I dunno how you could measure those, save with a giant "field expediency" caliper. How about a 1x6 or 1x8 on edge, with two nails inserted vertically - or taped to the side of the board, measuring c-to-c?
Kinda like...........|...................................................|
....................___|_____________________________|__
....................|................................................|
....................|__________________________________|

The angle between the holes on each side is given as 12.5 degrees (apparently to the center line of the frame rail).

The book does not mention it, but I presume these distances are center-to-center.

Hope this is of some help.
Good Luck!
Tom M.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:44 am

yeah, that should do it, thanks!

I'm not going for anything super-accurate, I hit a pot hole in my echo and it put the caster out 0.3 of a degree and i couldn't see or notice it.