Transmission issue?

[Yaroslav]

Hello all,

Ok so my new not so new tranny is acting up...well sort of....No shifting problems at all, no noise, no grinding. BUT....if say I am driving and have to suddenly stop and I am in gear.....by the time i come to a stop and try to shift into neutral...it is hard to disengage the gear...then when i try to put it into first...it wont go....so i have to put it into reverse first and then into first for it to do anything!....thanks in advance...hopefully my story makes sense

So basically sometimes it is hard to engage it into first....i have to find some other gear first...and then find first.

Cheers

[ARCHINSTL]

Maybe this can help/point the way to an answer ? ? ?
For more years than most of you have been alive, when shifting to first at a stop, I shift into second and then into first.
Why?
It's a holdover from the gearboxes on Morris Minors (and Spridgets also, perhaps?). First was unsynchronized, and the box for the BMC "A" engine just shifted into first better with a prior shift into second - just in-and-out and the clutch was kept depressed. This worked on the various new as well as used Minors I had. I'm pretty sure the Minis used this box as well, although in a transverse position - but I never owned a Mini.
Dunno if this is a help, but possibly it's a clue to __?__.
Tom M.

[takza]

That is really a minor issue. I've noticed this too...espec in winter....when it takes a little time to go in. Might want to check your clutch adjustment? New oil?

[Typrus]

It isn't in 4wd is it...?

Try some slickery oil like Schaeffer's. And no, I won't stop pushing Schaeffer's on the world because it is freaking awesome oil. Get their gear lube.

If you go to their site (http://www.schaefferoil.com) #214 or #267 is what you'll want. You'll have to get ahold of a local rep so go to locate a dealer, go to your city, then see what shows up. Those are stores and shops that resale it. But the better deal would be to call here- Please call 800-325-9962 for a Sales Represenative in your area. - and get a sales rep. They will get you a better price.

[Yaroslav]

Thanks for suggestions
It seems to be termperature related
I will try some synthetic oil for sure

thanks

[Petros]

verify that your clutch cable is adjusting properly. If the clutch is not disengaging all the way it will act like this.

How cold is it in Calgary right now? We visited there last August, it was nice but on the cool side even then.

Also I have noticed that real slippery synthetic trans oil will actually hamper the synchronizes from engaging. Since the synchro depends on friction to work I am thinking that maybe a 50/50 blend of synthetic and standard gear oil might work better for all around driving. Does anyone experience this with the MTF synthetic in their trans?

[ESI-RStarion]

It is definitely affected by tempeture, the wagon I picked up beginning of september has a perfect tranny doesn't grind in any gear and goes in smooth as butter. After I left work I had let it warm up for about 2min headed out and as I was shifting into second it did a very slight grind and went into third reluctantly. My other wagons also did this but the first one had a cracked shifter boot dealy so when I got water/snow on top the tranny it would melt, go through the boot on top of the tranny then it would freeze over night preventing me from moving the gear shifter, forcing me to fully warm up my engine/tranny before leaving.

[keith]

I tried Mobil 1 synthetic MTF, it didn't seem to work very good. The syncros made more grinding noise so I went back to the regular stuff.

I have used Mobil 1 in my 90 Dodge Colt from new and the transmission worked smoother than any other FWD transmission I've ever had, right up to the day the car went to the junkyard. This particular transmission had a reputation for being weak. I used one bottle of Slick 50 for manual transmissions along with the Mobil 1. I put the same combination in my 97 Nissan PU. The only problem that I had with it was that the first 1-2 shift on a cold morning was hard to do. It didn't grind or make any noise, it just wouldn't go in. I'd skip second, go to third but after that, it shifted perfectly after that for the rest of the day.

Maybe with a brand new or freshly rebuilt transmission, it might work, but our current transmission didn't like it. Couldn't find the Slick 50 for MT's anymore.

[Yaroslav]

Hey guys,

So my tranny is still sorta jamming up at time when i stop suddenly or try to engage a gear from standstill. What also happens is that when no gears engage, the reverse sometime would but it grinds (which makes me think that it is moving....and it shouldn't right! if I'm clutching down. What helps is to turn the engine off and then back on again. It seems to do the trick.
How do I go about checking clutch!?!

[Petros]

What you describe could be the clutch.

First verify that the cable is adjusting properly (inspect the auto adjuster on the clutch pedal-use a flashlight and manually advance the adjuster). There should not be much slack in the cable, if there is the auto adjuster may need to be cleaned or replaced, or you have a stretched out clutch cable that needs replacing.

Sometimes a malfunctioning clutch will not disengage even when the clutch pedal is depressed. No way know without removing it. A clutch wear test is to put your brake on (and stand on the brake pedal), rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and let out the clutch in first gear. You should stall the engine. If not the clutch is worn out. Do this in a clear parking lot with nothing in front of you.

The simplest way to check that the clutch is disengaging is to put the front of the car on jacks stands and start the car in neutral (FWD only). Put the clutch in and put the car in gear holding the clutch down. IF the wheels are turning than the clutch is not disengaging.

IF the cable is working properly, than you will have replace the clutch assembly.

Good luck. Hopefully it is only the cable or adjuster.

[keith]

The reason that a clutch will not fully disengage when the pedal is pushed to the floor, besides a cable that needs adjusting is that something gets trapped between the clutch plate and the flywheel or pressure plate or the fingers on the pressure plate have worn through and the throw out bearing is barely catching them.

It could be a piece of the clutch friction material, a damping spring or piece thereof, or any piece of broken material or metal.

[Yaroslav]

Thanks for suggestion guys. Ill be on this once im done my exams lol.
Well I just replaced entire clutch assembly (minus the flywheel) including the ..hmmm what is it called (c'mon genious)...pilot bearing etc. But the cable has not been touched....so I will be trying the above suggestions.
I ll keep ya posted.
Cheers

[keith]

Oh yeah, I just remembered one more thing, this car has a self adjuster on the clutch pedal, it could get sticky and not catch properly. A little WD40 or equivalent should keep it working. If something is getting between the clutch plate and flywheel or pressure plate, the clutch pedal will feel softer than normal and travel further before feeling the springs.

A sticking pilot bearing can make shifting hard too, but since you just put in a new one, that shouldn't be it. If the bellhousing of the transmission isn't flush against the engine, that could also cause problems shifting.

[ESI-RStarion]

If the bellhousing of the transmission isn't flush against the engine, that could also cause problems shifting.

Yes! make sure you get all of those sneaky little bolts on the backside of the engine "Goot'n'tight"

[Yaroslav]

Here is what I also thought off.

My replaced tranny is (I think) from a 83. I drive an 86 (Sept 85). When I was getting a clutch kit i ordered it for an 86.....So I have an 86 clutch in an 83 car.....could this be the problem?