How long to replace steering rack boot?

Snax · Post by **Snax** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:08 am

I just got a set of replacement boots on friday. Is this as easy as it is to replace them on most cars? (I.e., 30 minutes or less for the skilled mechanic?)

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 1:45 pm

I think you are optimistic...'course, I did inner and outer tierods.
You gotta realign it, though - presuming you are not using the split-type boots.
Tom M.

splatterdog · Post by **splatterdog** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:20 pm

As far as alignment. You can keep it very close by counting the turns out for the outer tie rod end as you remove it. This method has become less effective when replacing the tie rods themselves as replacement ends are usually not consistent lengthwise these days(unless you go with OE parts maybe). But if you are just doing boots, the count method should work well.
Follow up with a tape measure job or get a coupon alignment somewhere. They usually only set toe anyway.

Snax · Post by **Snax** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:41 pm

Alright, it will be just the boots and I will time it. I'm going to predict 29 minutes start to finish including tool assembly and cleanup. Though I might spend extra time planning how to do it that fast.

keith · Post by **keith** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 4:43 am

A small Pitman Arm puller is ideal for separating the tie rod ends.

If you are reusing the tire rod ends, clean off the threads and sleeve. Then use a mark-a-lot or sharpie to make a line across the sleeve and threads. When you reassemble, screw into the line and line the two parts of the line up and your alignment we be the same as before you started.

Snax · Post by **Snax** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:28 pm

27 MINUTES!!!

That includes me washing the grease off of my hands and arms with all tools placed back in their normal disorganized positions (somewhere in the toolbox).

I was starting to sweat it after spending over 5 minutes just trying to get the new boot over the flange of the steering rack. Have you ever tried to shove spaghetti up a cat's hiney? (I hope not.) But it was allot like I would imagine that to be and took some finesse to get the smallish boot to go around the flange.

Unfortunately I have discovered that my outer CV boot is torn on that side as well. I don't think that's going to be a 30 minute job without the cheater split-boot however.

So anyway, since I have just done this for the driver side (passenger side may vary), I might as well summarize the process:

Tools needed:

- Jack
- Jack stands
- 21mm lug wrench
- 10 mm socket or wrench
- 14 mm socket and wrench
- 17 mm socket or wrench
- Socket wrench
- needle nose pliars
- mallet or ball joint puller (the mallet will probably do)
- wire cutter

Process:

Step 1: Break the torque on the lugnuts, then jack it up, place your jackstands, and remove the driver side wheel.

Step 2: Remove the outer ball joint cotter pin and loosen the retaining nut to just a hair past the end of the threads.

Step 3: Whack the retaining nut and ball joint stud downward with the mallet. I've never had one not break loose this way, and leaving the nut on the stud by slightly past it provides reasonable assurance of not damaging the threads. Don't beat on it too hard though or you can damage the nut. And don't beat on it without the nut on there! Resort to puller if necessary.

Step 4: (Optional) Remove lower fender liner that hangs between the wheel and motor area.

Step 5: Loosen the 14mm bolt and nut on the steering rod adjustment clamp.

Step 6: While holding the inner rod still with a 14 mm open end wrench, carefully count the turns of the outer rod as you unscrew it from the inner rod. DON'T FORGET THIS NUMBER! Write it down if you have to. Take note of any half or quarter turns if necessary. Clean the threads now if they need it.

Step 7: Remove the old boot, inspect the inner ball joint, and install the new boot. As mentioned above, the inner portion of the boot may be a challenge to fit over the flange. I was able to get it on by getting one side of it over the flange, then ringing the inside of it with my needle nose pliars to leverage it the rest of the way on. Be sure to replace the zip-tie(s) on the new boot.

Step 8: Reverse the rest of the procedure being careful to turn the outer rod back onto the inner rod the exact same number of turns. Don't forget to hold the inner rod from turning as you install the outer rod.

If you are careful to count your turns on the rod carefully, you should not need to check or adjust the alignment when you are done.

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 5:00 pm

Good writeup! And 27 minutes is amazing. It took me a few hours (as I had to fight some bad rust).

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 5:25 pm

I had to replace the rack in my son's Probe last month. Getting a replacement rack wasn't an issue at all, I had a good one on the parts car. The problem was that I failed to realize it was bad while I had the engine out. It took me 5 minutes to pull the rack from the parts car, and about 4 hours to get it in the car. Once I figured out I had to drop the subframe to get the old rack out, it was all downhill.

I have a new rebuilt rack for my Tercel that's going in when I replace the front struts. Hopefully it won't be quite as bad.

Snax · Post by **Snax** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:59 pm

Yeah, that's exactly why I jumped on replacing the boot. The rack in my last car failed and was a pain to remove. Worse yet was that nobody made a rebuild kit for it and only complete racks were available from the dealer for $850! I was so peaved about it that I just replaced the boot, greased it all up, and used it dry of fluid. No pump. No more hoses. No more mess. (It was a race car afterall and I ditched about 10 lbs of stuff that way.) But it was a bear to steer.

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:13 pm

I picked up a rebuilt Tercel power rack on ebay a few years ago for about $35 shipped. When I replace the front struts sometime in the near future, I'll put on new outer tie rod ends (it's complete with inners and boots) and install the rack. Since the only play in my steering is in the inner tie rods, this should tighten it right back up.

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 2:12 am

Snax wrote:
Step 3: Whack the retaining nut and ball joint stud downward with the mallet. I've never had one not break loose this way, and leaving the nut on the stud by slightly past it provides reasonable assurance of not damaging the threads. Don't beat on it too hard though or you can damage the nut. And don't beat on it without the nut on there! Resort to puller if necessary.

This usually works, but I've seen times when it hasn't or I've needed to hit it too much. ALWAYS use a weight on the backside of what you are separating it from that is at least as heavy as your hammer.

If you are careful to count your turns on the rod carefully, you should not need to check or adjust the alignment when you are done.

Not very likely you will get it right, but close enough to get to the alignment place or do it yourself....IMO

Snax · Post by **Snax** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 7:57 am

"Hmm . . was that 31 turns or 32??" - Me

Fortunately I got it right, as it still has the same 5 degree cant to the right in the steering wheel that was there before while driving straight. One would think I might fix that . . eventually . . before 2009 . . if I have enough beer on hand . . and don't mind getting dirty . . eh, nevermind.