Teaser

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 11:23 am

Based on the histor I've put up... Who'd be willing tobuy my Terc once I get new tires, brake upgrade, A/C working again? Oh yeah, and the new rear springs and new struts/shocks?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Sep 08, 2007 8:59 pm

Adding to that (maybe)
new wheel bearings
all new brakes (upgrade to vented in front)
tranny and rear diff flush and fill with Schaeffer's
new center support bearing
new clutch
new 2" exhaust, maybe with an inner and outer ceramic-laced coating

Worth over a grand, what I just listed, not considering tires or the springs

keith · Post by **keith** » Sat Sep 08, 2007 9:42 pm

Just curious but which one are you talking about?

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 12:21 pm

The 84.

This one- viewtopic.php?t=2001&start=0

The interior has since been cleaned extensively (I removed everything to get the carpets out) and the new wraps will be on the 15" rims, but I can throw the old 13" steelies in for maybe $25?

Man... What has been done to it....

New timing belt recently
New water pump
New radiator
Power steering flushed out
Propylene Glycol Coolant
New(ish) spark plugs
New spark wires, cap and rotor
New sway bar bushings (body and control arm)
New control arm bushings
New(ish) brake hoses
Heater Blower Motor Resistor replaced
Alternator and regulator maybe a year ago
Larger battery

Oil changed (under my watch) every 3000 miles with Mobil One Syn. 10-30 at first, Fram Oil filter up until maybe a year and a half ago

For 6 months after that- Valvoline MaxLife Syn-Blend 10-30 every 3k with PureONE filter

For the last year- Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 10W-40 Syn-Blend every 3-6k miles with PureONE filter (for the 6k runs, PureONE changed out at 3k and a dose of BG MOA added)
Last change (ran out of Schaeffer's) Valvoline Premium Blue (Ultra?) 15w-40 with MOA dose and PureONE filter.

All PureONE filters have had pieces of hard-drive magnets placed on the shell to collect super-small metal bits after 500 miles of driving or so.

Transmission lube was replaced 2 years ago and should be getting done with Schaeffer's soon

I did the rear diff last month with Lucas oil.

Carburetor was rebuilt May of 05 by a professional Toyota mechanic out of Boulder (thanks Charley!)

She pulls anywhere from 24-36mpg, with highs in the 40's on the freeway if you really coax it.

My vacuum alignments are psycho, but it runs great how it is.

I'm thinking that if someone wants to buy this, if they are willing to pay for a Weber and maybe a Dizzy, I'll put the labor in to put it on for them. It would benefit from both.

Engine is out of my blue 86.
Body has 211,686.6+ miles on it
Engine has 4771 more miles for 216,457.6+ miles

For our Canadian buddies thats 348,354.74+ KM

She's had valve-lash adjustments every 3-6k miles. Basically every oil change she gets one.

R134a converted by yours truly, and soon to be replacing the Expansion Valve, Hi-Pressure switch, Accumulator/dryer, and all seals. I'll probably do a full-flush to it as well.

Again, if someone wants to buy it and pay for a K&N, I'll install it. Not like thats a hard install, but still....

I can't think of anything else right now.

Wait, I take that back- New tie-rods, inner and outer, with new boots.
New bushings/strut bearings at the top of the struts
NOW I can't think of anything else....

thebigbread · Post by **thebigbread** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:45 pm

Id like that as a daily driver, unfortunately, thats just too far away.

the pickup i posted about was going to be my daily driver, then i found out it has a bad fuel pump, ecu's cut, missing carpet & interior parts, almost all the wiring is bad also. thats just too much work, im gonna get rid of it asap.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:51 pm

Nowhere is too far >.< lol

So something else I'd like is opinions on what else can be done to bring her up to snuff.
The more shes brought back, the more she'll be worth.

That, and if I don't get a good offer from anyone, I might just do all the repairs and try to milk the rest of the life out of her. Which would happen fairly quickly because I could easily be putting 100k a year on cars within the next year.

Added to the list of potentials;
New front springs
New ball joints

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:03 pm

New 2" exhaust, no coating, is going on half tonight and half tomorrow morning. Roughly $400 for manifold back. We'll see what it does for performance.

The 3 holes for the Evaporator in the firewall made for an interesting listening experience with the engine. At least theres no funky whirs, grinds, or buzzes. Tranny sure is noisey though.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 5:56 am

Full 2" from the manifold? Damn...there goes the backpressure.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 6:43 am

Lol.
I shift at 4-6. I think I'll be alright.
Plus, its getting a good cat. So its backpressure is probably not a massive amount less than the factory setup with the cat hollow and a 2" muffler and last foot-long segment. Plus all my exhaust leaks.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 12:03 pm

Improvement throughout the revs. Even as low as 1k. More torque.

SWEET.

Though, there is a slight drone. Not a mosquito bomb by any means, but a very slight one exists. Neither of my folks noticed though. (shrug)

Post by **Petros** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:56 pm

let us do a way with one myth: back pressure is never beneficial for any engine. It is a common misconception, and oft repeated error to say that an engine "needs" back pressure to run better.

I think the idea that is does comes from the observation that cars with leaky exhausts or with no exhaust pipes put out less power than the same car with a good exhaust system. This is not because of not enough back pressure, it is due to unfavorable exhaust harmonics.

With no exhaust pipe, or with a leaking one, favorable harmonics in the exhaust manifold do not exist or are greatly hampered. Tests with pressure probes in the exhaust show that an engine with a good exhaust system can actually achieve BELOW atmospheric pressure in the exhaust manifold (that is correct, a vacuum) due to favorable harmonics. This can not occur without an exhaust pipe. When a vacuum exists in the exhaust manifold the engine takes less energy to pump out the exhaust gases, it "breaths" better, and it produces more power at the flywheel.

This is also why a "tuned" exhaust manifold is so important to get both max power out put and max economy, it enhances the favorable harmonics and results in lower exhaust pressures, and more power available at the flywheel. And the term "tuned" is exactly correct, because just like the tuned pipes in a piper organ (the tones are produced by the various frequencies of harmonics in the pipe organs), when the correct harmonic is achieved in each exhaust runner, good things happen in the manifold. And this music to my ears.

Peter

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:57 pm

Seems like years ago we called them "bunch of bananas" when tuned exhaust systems like this were encountered on GP cars - dunno if Indy-types used this - or if this type is still around?
Tom M.

Post by **Petros** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:29 pm

I have heard the term "bag of snakes headers" or should that be "bag-o-snakes"? Sounds like the same idea.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:01 pm

Whaaa?

Thats why equal lengt and diameter, proper pairing, etc are so important in headers... The flow of one pulse creates a suction that pulls the next one out. It "helps" it out. Problem is its hard to get the "help" anywhere outside of a certain rev range. Say, 2500-3500RPM. Thus the benefit of varying header tube lengths.

Did you know that a good muffler can actually result in BETTER flow than a straight-pipe? Its been proven on dyno's, flow-meters, real-life scenarios... Though, yes, some mufflers will create BP. (cross-flow's anyone?) Ones like, say, the Aero-Turbine, will allow for better flow.