Storing my Tercel :(

ctishman · Post by **ctishman** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 1:03 am

Well, the day fast approaches to move to Seattle, and with it the unhappy prospect of leaving my dearly beloved 4WD Tercel in Eugene, as alas, it would never pass Seattle smog. My father is the technical owner of it, and he has asked me to draw up plans for storage.

I don't know when (nor if) I will reclaim it, so what's the best place/way to prepare to store my car for up to a year (at which point I will ask that he sell it/give it away)? Keep in mind that this is in the wet Oregon winter.

Also,

.

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 1:15 am

I'm assuming you don't have an indoor place to store it. The car should be as clean as possible before you park it. Wash it thoroughly, and wax the paint. Vacuum the interior, and make sure there's nothing that a rodent might consider food inside the car. Change the oil and filter. Treat the gas with Sta-Bil, and start it long enough to ensure the treated gas has filled the carburetor. Jack the Tercel up on a level surface and put it on jack stands so that the tires are just above the surface. Spray or wipe the tires liberally with a tire treatment. I use Meguiar's. Spray the engine compartment thoroughly with a silicone engine shine (mainly to discourage rodent damage). Finally, disconnect the battery. It'll hold a charge longer that way.

ctishman · Post by **ctishman** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 1:50 am

Thanks!

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 3:10 am

I hope your parting words will be the same as those of The Terminator...
Tom M.

keith · Post by **keith** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:14 am

I would add a car cover to what neonsport listed. It will keep UV rays from breaking down many of the rubber components. At the very least, a sunshade in the windshield.

splatterdog · Post by **splatterdog** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:57 am

Don't know if you have oxygenated gas where you are. Todays fuel stores very poorly. I've seen quite a few jello filled carbs and tanks on seasonal small engines the last few years. We can get non-oxy here but have to shell out for premium to get it.

On the bright side, there's always free yard equipment on craigslist that most just need a fuel flush.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:08 pm

We have 10% Ethanol gas here. It can go for more than 5 years in storage, but thats with the Sta-Bil being re done every fall. Doesn't run that great when you're ready to go again, but it does work.
So on that note, Sta-Bil it at least annually.

Post by **Petros** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:49 pm

All good advice, I would also add bleeding out all of the old brake fluid with new fluid, and also soaking the door seals and dash with Armorall or similar, and spraying the locks with silicon lube. PUt WD40 or penetrating oil on all the small moving parts under the dash (heater controls, hindges etc.).

If it will be sitting that long, better count on needing a new battery unless you can get someone to recharge it every 2 or 3 months. You might also consider flushing out the radiator and install new coolant (this should not matter if your coolent is recent and clean).

thebigbread · Post by **thebigbread** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:09 pm

Petros wrote:All good advice, I would also add bleeding out all of the old brake fluid with new fluid, and also soaking the door seals and dash with Armorall or similar, and spraying the locks with silicon lube. PUt WD40 or penetrating oil on all the small moving parts under the dash (heater controls, hindges etc.).

If it will be sitting that long, better count on needing a new battery unless you can get someone to recharge it every 2 or 3 months. You might also consider flushing out the radiator and install new coolant (this should not matter if your coolent is recent and clean).

id actually recommend disconnecting the battery during storage, but i agree on lubricating all those small parts.

keith · Post by **keith** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:08 am

If you're going to sell/give it away in a year, why not just do that now?