Swapping wheel barrings

[Seattle_Tercel_Lover]

I need to replace one or both of the rear wheel barrings on my 83 tercel. I have another 83 that I'm using as a parts car. I know the barrings on the parts car are good (they didn't whine the last time it ran). I'm wondering if I should just take the barrings off the old tercel or just invest in some brand new ones.

Also, if I take the barrings out of the old one can I pack them myself or will I need to take them to a shop?

I haven't worked on cars much and pretty much only know how to tighten screws. My brother is going to help me and he knows more than I do but any help or tips and prolly even a step by step guide on how to do this would help.

Thanks[/list]

[ARCHINSTL]

Do a Search -
There are a number of threads on just this situation - MootsMan has a good one.
Tom M.

[keith]

You can swap the axles with the bearings attached. The bearings are sealed, but you can carefully pry out the seal with a dental pick or similar item, use a needle injector to inject grease into the bearings and then replace the seal.

If you choose to do this, flush out all the old grease and use a good quality high temp Moly-lith or synthetic grease.

[Petros]

I just noticed your post. I did a breif write up on this and it is now in the repair guide section of the site.

The rear axles come out by removing (4) 12 mm nuts on the brake backing plate. YOu have to pull off the rear drums to do this (there are threaded holes in the drum between the wheel studs where you drive in two bolts to pop the drum off).

You also will have to remove the brake line, which means you will have to bleed the brakes when you are done, so have brake fluid available. You can leave the parking brake cable attached since there is enough movement allowed to get the brake backing plate off and out of the way.

The rear axle should slide out with some effort, once the bearing is free it will just slip out but be careful not to damage the seal that is behind the bearing. If there is rust in the bearing seat you will have to get more aggressive to pull the axle. the only thing holding it in is the brake backing plate, and any corrossion around the bearing. Spraying penetrating oil on the bearing might make it come out easier once you get the brake backing plate off.

One you get the axle off you can replace just the bearing with a new one (they do not cost much, perhaps about $25 ea), but you have to take the axle to an automotive machine shop where they press the old bearing off and press the new one on and charge you to do it. If the bearings in your parts car is good you can just swap out the whole axle shafts with the bearings on them and avoid the cost of new parts and the trip to the machine shop. Again watch out you do not damage the rubber seal behind the bearing seat.

It is not a difficult job, most mechanics can do it in about an hour or less (each side), beginners will take much more time of course. Without a slide hammer or puller it will be very difficult to pull the axles if there is a lot of corrosion around the bearings. I have both replaced bearings, and simply swapped axles off a parts car. The used parts if in good shape work just fine.

Good luck

[keith]

Well Petros, I've replaced the rear wheel bearings twice now. The axle comes right out, you don't have to disconnect any brake lines and the bearings are about $48 ea.

You have to grind off the bearing retainer and inner seat for the seal and if you nick the axle itself when doing this, you will have oil getting into the bearing and flushing out the grease. You can seal it with RTV if you do nick it. Then the bearings are pressed off and new ones on. After that, the new retainer/seal seat has to be heated to 305° in oil before it can be pressed on. New inner seals run about $10 as I remember.

[Mattel]

Change the whole axle over perhaps?.. they're the same model year/ratio

[Petros]

A large press will push off both the retainer and bearing without heat. I have done it. The shop ususally whacks the bearing retainer ring with a sharp chissel to weaken it's grip on the axle shaft. Both are simply pressed on with a hydraulic press.

I suppose heating it the bearing is a good way to do it if you do not have a press available. But I have never had to do that.

If the bearing seat in the axle housing gets moisture penetration it will cause corrosion that will make it difficult to remove the axle/bearing assembly. I have had it happen several times. I have had to use a slide hammer once, even tapping it with a hammer did not extrat the axle.

You are correct however that if there is no corrosion around the bearing once you unbolt the backing plate the axle/bearing assembly should just slip right out. The metal gasket between the axle housing and the brake backing plate SHOULD keep corrsion from forming in the bearing seat. If not, and you get corrossion, I find it easier to get the brake backing plate out of the way so I can clean out the rust and the gasket seat. I also use RTV to make sure this gasket seals out the moisture.

As for price I do not recall them being that much, but it has been over 5 years ago that I bought one new (I have simply switched axles with used bearings several times since then). Or maybe you are just buying your car parts from the wrong place? Even at $48 ea. it is a small price to pay for something that should last 100k miles or more if no good used ones are available. I have successfully used the same seals each time will good results, despite over 200k miles on the seals. If in doubt however replace the seals too.

[keith]

I used a 25 ton press. I just followed the directions in the FSM. I did not heat the bearing, only the retainer/seal seat. I replaced the seals last time as it has over 300k on it.