Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

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Typrus
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Post by Typrus »

My jets are the same they were last year. I had it rebuilt 2 years ago in May and I dunno if he did the jets or not.

If I remember to. I've been a little flaky recently to be honest.

Where do you get the "h" from... I'm confused.
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Post by takza »

Could be the greek or latin spelling? 8)

What I think maybe your carb guy might have done is to simply null out the vac based O2/mixture adjustment for the carb...set up the vac advance for the dist to run from unmoderated vac direct from the manifold? Or it could be the O2/ECU are still working?

I'd have to go thru all the gizmo info to be sure...and then probably wouldn't understand it all.

You need to leave some of it connected...choke...canister bleed...just look thru the stuff you need or what can't hurt to use...block off the rest? Can always reconnect things.
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ARCHINSTL
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Post by ARCHINSTL »

Well -
Everything worked out - and even better, with the proper gasket installed. And the various idles and TP were checked and adjusted.
However -
When I reopened the vac line to the "A" switch, the rpm cycling from 2300 to 1900 and back and forth returned.
So, I plugged it again - and of course the revs again do not drop as they should between shifts.
When I get home from gkidsitting and can review the FSM again, it seems that I should look at the vapor recovery system again, as that table mentions those two rpm levels as "when things occur" - and the "A" switch is involved in the mix of controls and happenings.
It would seem that at 2300, something is added that causes the revs to drop to 1900, and when they do, the "addition" is stopped and the revs build back to 2300, at which point the process is repeated ad infinitum.
Or - the reverse could occur - something is "subtracted" from the fuel/air mix at 2300 and "added" at 1900 ...
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Post by xirdneh »

ARCHINSTL wrote:Well -
Everything worked out - and even better, with the proper gasket installed. And the various idles and TP were checked and adjusted.
However -
When I reopened the vac line to the "A" switch, the rpm cycling from 2300 to 1900 and back and forth returned.
Tom M.
sometimes the fuel solinoid wires are cut from the plug and spliced back together (makes it easier to get the solinoids off the carb).
if the solinoids are reversed accidently during reassembly that will cause RPM cycling that can be stopped by disconnecting the "A" vacuum switch.
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Post by ARCHINSTL »

I realize that in the past you have recommended that the solenoid with the single wire should be on the outside/passenger side and the dual-wire solenoid be on the inside/driver side.
However, the AZ site as well as the other 3AC/4AC carbs I investigated on eBay all had their duals on the o/s and the singles on the i/s, as both my OE and replacement carbs have always had. And the wires were always intact and not spliced.
And a visual inspection shows that it would not be possible to put the single wire to the dual-wire solenoid and vice-versa - at least to my eyes.
So it would seem that the dual should be on the o/s and the singles should be on the inside.

OR - are you saying that the two wires on the "dual" solenoid might be spliced and reversed and I don't notice this because the splices are inside the black "sheath" that protects them?

Now - what am I missing?
Comments from others?
Tom M.
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"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates."
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Post by xirdneh »

ARCHINSTL wrote:I realize that in the past you have recommended that the solenoid with the single wire should be on the outside/passenger side and the dual-wire solenoid be on the inside/driver side.
However, the AZ site as well as the other 3AC/4AC carbs I investigated on eBay all had their duals on the o/s and the singles on the i/s, as both my OE and replacement carbs have always had. And the wires were always intact and not spliced.

Tom M.
the FSM for 1983 shows the single wire solenoid on the passenger/firewall side
the dual wire on the drivers side
now i'm wondering what's right
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Post by ARCHINSTL »

Now, THAT is interesting - the FSM I have for '86 shows the dual on the right side and the single on the left side, which corresponds to my previous mentions in this thread.

While I would imagine the FSM info is probably year-specific for each year, the AZ site does make mentions of exceptions for various years, to distinguish advice for differing years if need be - except there is nothing about the carb (save for the SU-type and several mentions of the non-feedback type - could this latter be what the '83 used?).

I couldn't get any info from Aisan on the carbs, so relied on the eBay pix, the FSM, and the AZ site.
Whaaaa?
Tom M.
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"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit."
T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
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xirdneh
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Re:

Post by xirdneh »

QUOTE Now, THAT is interesting - the FSM I have for '86 shows the dual on the right side and the single on the left side, which corresponds to my previous mentions in this thread.

in the '85 FSM page FU-18 "number 10"
the plug shows hookups as "USA" and "Canada"

note how the
1st cut solenoid "USA" is a two wire , 2nd cut solenoid is one wire
and the
2nd cut solenoid "Canada" is a two wire , 1st cut solenoid is one wire

that may explain the differences in some of these cars
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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Re: Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

Post by gnarnold »

ok im sol-annoyed .I have a ca 3ac vac system on a 3 a e.(recent swap )switched sol-annoyed s and it did make a difference .now once I fix the multitude of other problems I can test further .but just so I am clear on the difference , CA is single wire=passenger and double wire driver ? or is it vice versa?so would I run the 3acarb that came with the 3a engine CA style?
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Re: Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

Post by Petros »

if you switch over all of your induction and fuel/emissions system it should run the same. the differnances with the 3A engines are almost all external. So if you are having trouble with your fuel system, it is something you did (or did not do) to it. Or something was damaged in the swap. Make sure you switched everything over and that it was installed correctly.
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Re: Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

Post by gnarnold »

ok seems to be running fine with solenoids switched and vacuum switch a plugged .aside from theoverheating prob
I was wondering if anyone has or knows where to get a wind shield and a back window preferably with defroster
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Re: Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

Post by irowiki »

Windshield, contact your local glass place.

Rear glass, they'd all have defrosters. Auto glass place might be able to find you one, or the best luck may be from a junk yard.
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gnarnold
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Re: Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

Post by gnarnold »

wonderful.
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|
gnarnold
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Re: Stock Carb Vacuum Lines Disconnect

Post by gnarnold »

well I reattached the a side vacuum switch line it runs better compared to before it would cycle .not sure what changed .just glad it did better gas mileage now .
I used to laugh at the man with a pinto :lol: , until I became a humble servicer of a tercel :|
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