Clutch replacement on '83 AWD

tonythayer · Post by **tonythayer** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:34 am

I was all set to do the clutch replacement on my tercel this last weekend but I was stymied by the axles. I didn't have any way of dis-engaging them from the transmission. The FSM says that it needs an SST that looks like a cup cut in half with a wrench stuck to the center of it. You then just 'tap' out the axles (if I'm reading it right.) I think that I would have been able to get it all apart and back together again except for that one small thing. Is there anyone in the Portland/Metro area that I could convince to lend a hand? I would pay the poor volunteer in beer and/or cash, whichever currency is more desired.

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 3:27 am

You just need a prybar...just pry on that heavy flange on the axle vs the trans housing. I use another straight prybar and a hammer on that same flange to seat them.

There is a snap ring on the end of the shaft that holds them.

mailman · Post by **mailman** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 7:23 am

Takza, Thats the way i did it, worked slick. the mailman

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 1:12 pm

i removed the engine, much easier.

I've removed and installed my engine 3 times since august. Its a piece of cake now.

Don Jorgensen · Post by **Don Jorgensen** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 4:44 pm

Speaking from experience of following the Toyota car manual..I put a new clutch in my 86 SR5 last October. Working with jacks, car stands, and crawling under and out about 3,472 times, I think Mac's method is the route I will choose if ever I change another clutch. The hardest part for me was getting the transaxel back in place. I finally spent $40 on several sets of really long bolts of various lengths to draw up the transaxel to the engine. It may be alot easier with a transmission jack and a hoist and air tools.
I suggest paying close attention to torque specs. The pressure plate bolts are soft.
Don

tonythayer · Post by **tonythayer** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:15 pm

I was having trouble getting adequate clearance just to work under there, let alone dropping the tranny. I suspect it's one of those things where letting a shop take care of it is better. I need to be able to rely on it for a new job.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:30 pm

I did it in a shop at the first mechanic gig i had, air tools, tranny jack, hoist, etc etc. and it took the entire day.

alot of shops will quote you super high or not do it at all because of how notoriously hard it is to do these clutches. mabey if you mention my method when getting quotes they will be more forthcoming though.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 4:33 am

Don Jorgensen wrote:The hardest part for me was getting the transaxel back in place. I finally spent $40 on several sets of really long bolts of various lengths to draw up the transaxel to the engine. It may be alot easier with a transmission jack and a hoist and air tools.

In my experience it is risky to use force to mate a trans to an engine. Something was not lined up right? At least it worked out OK.

Don Jorgensen · Post by **Don Jorgensen** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 8:51 am

takza
I agree that it is unwise to force the transaxel to the engine. All I had to work with was a floor jack and the process of raising the transaxel and moving it toward the engine with the proper angle with the extreme limited clearance was a nightmare. The long bolts just made life easier.
By the way when I took the car apart the input shaft bearing that is in the flywheel was seized onto the shaft. It was a real challenge to get the transaxel off the engine in the first place. Literally had to keep working the transaxel around until the bearing gave out and the bearing races stayed with the corresponding parts.
In my youth I rebuilt several 55, 56, and 57 Chevys. The transmission was held onto the bell housing by 4 bolts...the motor mounts were on the bell housing. In those days I could roll a Borg/Warner or Muncie Rock Crusher 4 speed onto my (then slim tummy) roll under the car on a creeper and bench press the tranny into place. If I could do that with the Tercel transaxel, I'd do another one just for fun.
Don

tonythayer · Post by **tonythayer** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:36 am

The quotes I got from Clutch Doctors was $380 with parts and labor and $400 from Danny's auto repair. I already bought the parts, so clutch doctors won't warranty the work. I'm not sure about Danny's.