Car wont start after head job

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tonythayer
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Location: Portland, OR

Post by tonythayer »

Is the reluctor vane that spinning thing on the inside of the distributor, and is the ignitor the point that the spinning thing makes contact with to fire the cylinder?
skullone
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Location: Portland, OR

Post by skullone »

We got the car working pretty well now.
It was timing - the distributor was about 30 degrees off. The FSM doesn't make it entirely clear where to see the distributor, so we pulled Tony's tercel apart and compared where it was.
Been driving around a bit, car runs pretty good, though it feels timing is still a bit off, but to get it better we'll need a timing light most likely.

We did end up with some extra screws and bolts though... who knows where they came from ;)
Current Cars:
2006 Mazda3 GT fully loaded - love it
1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4WD - new to me!
takza
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Post by takza »

skullone wrote:We did end up with some extra screws and bolts though... who knows where they came from ;)

Confuscious say.....extra bolts and screws in the hand are much better than extra bolts and screws somewhere in the engine. As so.... :shock:
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keith
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Post by keith »

tonythayer wrote:Is the reluctor vane that spinning thing on the inside of the distributor, and is the ignitor the point that the spinning thing makes contact with to fire the cylinder?
If it makes contact, you have a problem. The gap should be .010, but you need a brass feeler gauge to check it. If you can push on the top of the shaft in the direction away from the ignitor and the gap opens up to .017 or more, then the shaft bearing is worn out.

I don't know where you can buy a new bushing for the shaft. I'm sure it can be done, as the reman distributors have had something done. They may just knurl the bushing, which any machine shop could do, but it won't last as long as a new bushing. For all the trouble, I'd rather just get a good reman from NAPA.

When these distributors start going bad, they can nickel and dime you to death. In the long run, a reman is cheaper and far less frustrating.
Last edited by keith on Sun Mar 04, 2007 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
tonythayer
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Location: Portland, OR

Post by tonythayer »

I don't think that it's making contact, if making contact is abnormal. There wasn't any lateral play on the shaft when we were pushing it around.
Typrus
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Post by Typrus »

My car ran with 35 degrees advance. Lol. Dunno if 35 degrees retard would work though.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed

1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
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ARCHINSTL
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My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
Location: Kirkwood, a 'burb of St. Louis

Post by ARCHINSTL »

From the AutoZone site:
Get a non-ferrous (paper, brass, or plastic) feeler gauge of 0.3mm (0.012 in.), and insert it into the pick-up coil air gap. DO NOT use an ordinary metal feeler gauge! The gauge should just touch either side of the gap. The permissible range is 0.2-0.4mm (0.008-0.016 in.).

Incidentally, you guys should hit the site for complete Tercel info - and No, I do not work there!
Tom M.
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Typrus
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Post by Typrus »

BTW, there is no bushing in our Dist. Its a bearing. I'll post pics later.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed

1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
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