Possible PNW Meet?

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:06 am

I'm interested too, the drive shouldn't be too bad to go down to seattle.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:47 am

Ok. I see that no one is committing to the idea, so I'm going to lay out some groundwork and see if there are any takers. December is just too short notice, so it'll be January.

I'm gonna put out 2 choices for 10am on Saturday, Jan 20.

1. LongBottom Coffee in Hillsboro for coffee/breakfast/meet&greet

2. Breakfast at Colemans Shady Rest on Hwy 6 in Gales Creek, followed by a "snow run" to Triangulation Point in the Tillamook State Forest.

Any takers?

PDXSR5 · Post by **PDXSR5** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:22 am

If I can get my new rig running smooth by then I'm in for something.

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:35 pm

I'm very interested!
My new terc is itching to find some offroading action, or at least meet and sniff some other tercs
though, anything too long distance, and my leaky radiator might present a problem. But I always carry extra fluids, just something to be mindful of.

Oh, wheres a good place that I can get an electric, or manual winch mounted onto my car?

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:33 pm

Ok, Jan20 is out. That is my son's Pinewood Derby for cub scouts. I'm thinging of making a car for myself, too....shaped like a Tercel!

I'm going to have to move the Tercel weekend and I don't know when I am going to move it to.......have to ask the Fiancee.......

keith · Post by **keith** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:04 pm

There is a little secret to winning the pinewood derby. Most people put the lead in the bottom near the center of the car. Put it as far back as possible, the higher the weight, the more potential energy it will have. The back of the car is the highest point when its in the starting block on the track. It falls further developing more kinetic energy giving the car a boost at the bottom of the ramp. It helps if the body is cut as low as possible, my son's cars were only 3/4" tall and aerodynamic. The first was modeled after a GT40, the second after a TransAm. Also take a pencil and rub the lead all over the axles before applying the graphite. Take the casting burrs off the axle pins too. Put pencil lead on the part of the wheel that touches the body.

Most important, put as much of the lead as far back as possible. BTW, my son never lost a race. Only one car ever even came close, and it had to be in the fastest lane and my son's in the slowest, all lanes are not created equal, as much as they try. It was always at the bottom of the ramp where his would shoot out ahead of the pack.

coltarms · Post by **coltarms** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:24 pm

I know it's short notice, but my 4WD group is headed up to Mt Defiance this weekend. If any PDX area Terc's want to come you're more than welcome. There will be enough big guys around to pull out anyone who gets stuck. I'll have my Jeep there, but I may just bring both rigs (let the fiancee drive the Jeep.) I would recommend that anyone who goes gets an OHV tag first. They're about $12 at any GI Joes.

DIRECTIONS: I-84 eastbound from Portland, first Hood River exit, Exit 62,
onto Cascade Ave. Meet at the nearby 76 gas station. Allow about 1 hour 15
minutes from Portland to Hood River.

keith · Post by **keith** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:04 am

More on pinewood derby cars. When I said put pencil lead on the part of the wheel that touches the body, what I meant was, take a #2 pencil, kinda dull at the point, and burnish the plastic inner rim of the wheel. Also burnish the axle pins with the pencil, it's as slick as a teflon coating. With the point really dull, you can also burnish the paint on the body where the wheel might touch with the pencil lead.

I know it sounds like I did all the work, but on the first car, I showed him each step and he did the work. On his second car, I was out to sea on a cruise, so except for cutting out the initial shape on a band saw, which the den leaders husband did for all the kids, he did it all himself.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:09 am

You can always go grab a tube of Graphite dry lube. All it is is ground up #2 pencil. I grabbed a tube for my CO2 race-car. Wheels spun like they were on ball-bearings. Lubed the inner edges and everything. I was winning the elimination rounds, till I got to round 5 and the skinny body blew apart at the end stopper. Bummer. And it was so cool too....
Now I use whats left of the graphite to lube the Nylon bearings on the steering gear of our garden tractor, lube door hinge-pins, and things that seem more appropriate with dry-lube. Works fantastic.

keith · Post by **keith** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:16 am

I used the graphite too, everyone does. Its the only lubricant allowed in the pinewood derby. But powder is hit and miss and tends to sling out, the burnishing with the pencil is really a backup lubricant, but critical I think.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:19 am

I suppose the burnishing would force it in better. The powder will adhere if you do it right, but it doesn't get forced in like penciling it would I suppose. I did rub it in with my finger though. Talk about shiny, slick, black fingers. Lol. Made a mess.