Hood Slammed! Car stalled and wont start...
The oil smells like petrol
OK.If you have not yet done so,I suggest you go to Newbie notes in the general index and find your way to downloading the factory service manual.
Possible causes,promiscuous throttle pumping,stuck ,misadjusted or malfunctioning choke,excessive fuel pressure,float lost buoyancy and sunk,float level to high needle and seat ,like toilet fill valve,worn,contaminated,or misassembled.How is the fuel level at the sight glass you foundHow is the oil level on the dipstick?May it have climbed?It can happen the fuel pump diaphram begins to break down,it is downstream of the fuel filter.Elastomer particles from the diaphram foul the needle and seat.As a bonus,fuel passes thru the diaphram to the crankcase.Why is my oil too full?
The oil you have in it may serve till you resolve the root cause,but change before driving.
Do I recall you just bought the car?Can the previous owner be contacted for leads? Did they attept to "fix" it.Was this why they sold it? etc.
I suggest that if you venture into any fixing you get a new carb kit in hand.Tear a little gasket or? it will help.Unless you have carb experience,a rebuilt carb r+r may be the straightest line.I'd guess$275 or so.It is not certain you need one,just a heads up.kamiphloj
Possible causes,promiscuous throttle pumping,stuck ,misadjusted or malfunctioning choke,excessive fuel pressure,float lost buoyancy and sunk,float level to high needle and seat ,like toilet fill valve,worn,contaminated,or misassembled.How is the fuel level at the sight glass you foundHow is the oil level on the dipstick?May it have climbed?It can happen the fuel pump diaphram begins to break down,it is downstream of the fuel filter.Elastomer particles from the diaphram foul the needle and seat.As a bonus,fuel passes thru the diaphram to the crankcase.Why is my oil too full?
The oil you have in it may serve till you resolve the root cause,but change before driving.
Do I recall you just bought the car?Can the previous owner be contacted for leads? Did they attept to "fix" it.Was this why they sold it? etc.
I suggest that if you venture into any fixing you get a new carb kit in hand.Tear a little gasket or? it will help.Unless you have carb experience,a rebuilt carb r+r may be the straightest line.I'd guess$275 or so.It is not certain you need one,just a heads up.kamiphloj
Like my old Volvo 544 with 4wd.I seldom regret neversieze or threadlocker
Hey have been away for awhile so still no go on the car, there is fuel in the float bowl to about half way up the glass, I havent tried to start it since I before I left and noticed the oil has started smelling of fuel, so this oil is still ok for abit?
I have owned the car for quite a while over two year with no real trouble so far.havent yet checked the fuel diaphragm but will do so, does this involve removing the fuel pump? I will check the manual all the same (yeap I do already have it), its warming into summer now and uni is nearly finished so I hope to get this solved soon. Thanks in advance for persevering
I have owned the car for quite a while over two year with no real trouble so far.havent yet checked the fuel diaphragm but will do so, does this involve removing the fuel pump? I will check the manual all the same (yeap I do already have it), its warming into summer now and uni is nearly finished so I hope to get this solved soon. Thanks in advance for persevering
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Mickey_D
- Top Notch Member
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 6:40 am
- Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
I am currently having much the same problem.
Mine drove home fine on Friday, but wouldn't start for crap today.
Things to check and ways to check them:
Ignition - Take off the #1 spark plug wire (front one) and take the spark plug out. At this point you'll need a helper as you'll need to hold the spark plug with a pair of insulated pliers down by the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley and have a helper turn the engine over (making VERY sure you and everything you're involved with is clear of the fanbelts. The spark plug should act as a timing light and spark right as the timing mark crosses the pointer. This way you know you have both spark and the right timing. If the above is fine, return the spark plug and reconnect the wire.
Fuel - Already been pretty much covered so far, but one other way to check - remove the fuel line from the carb and secure it in a container. Prop the choke butterfly open with something (a Phillips screwdriver works quite well) and pump the accelerator until there's no more fuel coming out of the accelerator pump (the squirting you saw down the carb throat). Let the engine sit for about two hours to let the fuel evaporate. Turn the engine over with the throttle held wide open. If there's no coughing (attempts to run) from the engine, sprinkle a little fuel down the carb throat and try again. If there's still no attempt from the engine to fire, there's a problem with compression. It's the only thing left.
Compression - This can be checked when you have the #1 spark plug out in the ignition check. With the plug out, stick your finger in the spark plug hole to create a seal. Not too tight, just enough close a zip lok baggie. Have your handy assistant turn the engine over. The compression should physically blow your finger out of the hole. If it doesn't, there's only three things it could be ; a bent valve, a snapped timing belt, or a holed piston.
Mine drove home fine on Friday, but wouldn't start for crap today.
Things to check and ways to check them:
Ignition - Take off the #1 spark plug wire (front one) and take the spark plug out. At this point you'll need a helper as you'll need to hold the spark plug with a pair of insulated pliers down by the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley and have a helper turn the engine over (making VERY sure you and everything you're involved with is clear of the fanbelts. The spark plug should act as a timing light and spark right as the timing mark crosses the pointer. This way you know you have both spark and the right timing. If the above is fine, return the spark plug and reconnect the wire.
Fuel - Already been pretty much covered so far, but one other way to check - remove the fuel line from the carb and secure it in a container. Prop the choke butterfly open with something (a Phillips screwdriver works quite well) and pump the accelerator until there's no more fuel coming out of the accelerator pump (the squirting you saw down the carb throat). Let the engine sit for about two hours to let the fuel evaporate. Turn the engine over with the throttle held wide open. If there's no coughing (attempts to run) from the engine, sprinkle a little fuel down the carb throat and try again. If there's still no attempt from the engine to fire, there's a problem with compression. It's the only thing left.
Compression - This can be checked when you have the #1 spark plug out in the ignition check. With the plug out, stick your finger in the spark plug hole to create a seal. Not too tight, just enough close a zip lok baggie. Have your handy assistant turn the engine over. The compression should physically blow your finger out of the hole. If it doesn't, there's only three things it could be ; a bent valve, a snapped timing belt, or a holed piston.
1986 Tercel Wagon 4X4 SR5 (sold to splatterdog).
A bullet may have your name on it, but shrapnel is addressed, "To whom it may concern"!!
A bullet may have your name on it, but shrapnel is addressed, "To whom it may concern"!!
......... Errrrrmmm...
How do you lengthen the spark plug wire enough to facilitate your idea? A timing light will ONLY pulse when there is current going through the wire you have it connected to. ONLY. Unless you have a POS timing light or are hooked up wrong. So if you have the plug out (and the insulation on a pair of pliers is not enough to block out 40,000 volts... I just might know) I'd recommend you use an approved spark plug tester apparatus. The last one I saw was running for $20 or so at Advance. Basically the spark plug bolts into a device that either bolts down or clips down to the block to allow for a proper ground without risk of shock. If the timing light is flashing in rythm, but you have no spark, check that the plug is grounded right, and if it is but no spark still, you either have bad spark plug leads or a weak coil. If the thing sparks strong and the light pulses on time, you have no issue.
If your problem involves flooding as we think is possible, then pumping the pedal enough to empty out the carb IS NOT going to help you any. You can certainly disconnect the fuel pump from the carb (wrap connection with some rags as some fuel will come down... pooled fuel on the exhaust is just a lovely thing) and put the feed into a glass container (or HDPE plastic) and crank the engine to see if the pump flows a healthy amount. Then reconnect everything and try again. Nothing? Well, then pour a little bit of the fuel from your container (providing its CLEAN) down the barrel. I do mean a little. Maybe a teaspoons worth, tablespoon max for now. Then immediately try to crank. If it catches, fires a few times, then fails, you likely have a fuel supply problem. If the float is full, it likely lies in one of the jets or internal valve-work.
For a compression test, actual compression tester devices are not expensive. I bought the Advance Auto premium one for maybe $35. Works great. Use is easy enough as well. If you want to know how it works, just ask.
20PSI is enough to probably push your finger out unless you are pressing hard. The minimum spec for our engines is 120PSI. Your finger will be well-beyond blown out at even 90PSI, which would not be enough (likely) to sustain combustion.
I'm not trying to undercut anyone. I just am a little worried about some of those methods productivity.
How do you lengthen the spark plug wire enough to facilitate your idea? A timing light will ONLY pulse when there is current going through the wire you have it connected to. ONLY. Unless you have a POS timing light or are hooked up wrong. So if you have the plug out (and the insulation on a pair of pliers is not enough to block out 40,000 volts... I just might know) I'd recommend you use an approved spark plug tester apparatus. The last one I saw was running for $20 or so at Advance. Basically the spark plug bolts into a device that either bolts down or clips down to the block to allow for a proper ground without risk of shock. If the timing light is flashing in rythm, but you have no spark, check that the plug is grounded right, and if it is but no spark still, you either have bad spark plug leads or a weak coil. If the thing sparks strong and the light pulses on time, you have no issue.
If your problem involves flooding as we think is possible, then pumping the pedal enough to empty out the carb IS NOT going to help you any. You can certainly disconnect the fuel pump from the carb (wrap connection with some rags as some fuel will come down... pooled fuel on the exhaust is just a lovely thing) and put the feed into a glass container (or HDPE plastic) and crank the engine to see if the pump flows a healthy amount. Then reconnect everything and try again. Nothing? Well, then pour a little bit of the fuel from your container (providing its CLEAN) down the barrel. I do mean a little. Maybe a teaspoons worth, tablespoon max for now. Then immediately try to crank. If it catches, fires a few times, then fails, you likely have a fuel supply problem. If the float is full, it likely lies in one of the jets or internal valve-work.
For a compression test, actual compression tester devices are not expensive. I bought the Advance Auto premium one for maybe $35. Works great. Use is easy enough as well. If you want to know how it works, just ask.
20PSI is enough to probably push your finger out unless you are pressing hard. The minimum spec for our engines is 120PSI. Your finger will be well-beyond blown out at even 90PSI, which would not be enough (likely) to sustain combustion.
I'm not trying to undercut anyone. I just am a little worried about some of those methods productivity.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed
1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed
1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew