Mr Rust, again

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waynehoc
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Mr Rust, again

Post by waynehoc »

A couple of weeks ago did a 50 mile run or so in to town and back in a driving rainstorm - mostly highway speeds. The next morning, needed to squeeqie off the windows before leaving for work, so grabbed the squeegie from the floor in the back seat area (passenger side) and noticed that the spongy part of it was wet right through, so explored a little further. Yikes! There was 1/4" or more of water on the floor under the matting!

So after work that day (was Wed, but had 4 days off starting Thurs) drove into the under-house garage (split-level house) and the next morning began a four day trek through Rustville.

Found takza's very helpful post about Mr Rust, and discovered the rear wheel well strut tower seam problem right away. Here in the lower mainland of B.C. we get very little snow (=no salt on the roads in the Winter), but we do get a LOT of rain, which had taken its toll over 19 years ('87 2WD wagon).

So, much rubberized asphalt material and 1/2 a roll of asphalt-backed flexible roofing aluminum later, I now have leak-free rear wheel wells. Took the time to check out the car overall for rust, but the main problem area was the rear wheel wells. Will post some pics later to show what I found. Had Toyota used plastic rear wheel well liners as they did in the front wheel wells, I'm sure much less rust would have occured. I did find that the side with the gas tank filler pipe. etc., which has a plastic mini-liner to protect the gas filler pipe and lines (I assume), was in much better shape on the rear half of the strut towers, as the pics will show.

Some pics ('87 2WD wagon) of what you don't want to see.

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This is the driver's side front of strut tower. Note the ugly rusted seam area. Strangely, very little water had come in on the driver's side. I attribute this to the mini plastic wheel well liner which is in the rear part of the wheel well on this side, I think, to protect the gas filler pipe and lines on the driver's side.

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This is the passenger side front of strut tower. This is the side where I found a ton of water had come in. You can see 'streaky looking lines' coming down the body metal from the rusted area. These 'lines' are the path(s) the sand-laden water travelled from the rusted seam down to the carpeted rear floor area of the car. Even though the rust looks no where near as bad on this side, there is no plastic wheel well liner of any sort on the passenger side, and lots of water got in through the rusted seam.

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This is the passenger side rear of the strut tower. Rusted, but no indication that any water had come in through the rusted seam (yet).

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This is the driver's side rear of the strut tower - close to rust free, especially compared to the other side. Plastic wheel well liners obviously work, even if only 'mini' liners. The big 'hump' in the sheet metal is where the gas tank filler line and other gas tank lines go.

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This is a shot of the gas tank filler and other gas tank lines, looking from the rear and under the chassis. Cleaned up this area really well and sprayed it super mucho with rust prevention/moisture-displacing stuff.

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Shot of the rear bumper taken from under the chassis. This wagon has never been exposed to road salt anywhere or anytime, but just good old water can have a field day all by itself. Rear bumper can be replaced - will be dealing with this next Summer. The remainder of the car was in quite decent shape, rust-wise, with exception of some moderate rust starting on the lower rear rocker panels and lower rear quarter panels (that good mud flaps would have prevented, I'm sure). Did some preliminary rust prevention treatmenat of those areas at the same time.

After the external treatment of the rusted/leaking seams with the asphalt/rubberized stuff and roofing asphalt-backed aluminum, all the rusty seam areas were sprayed on the inside of the wagon with a lot of the same stuff I used in the gas tank and lines area. Before any work was done, the areas were dried out thoroughly using a 1500 Watt 110 Volt portable fan/heater, and thoroughly cleaned as well. Also used the same fan/heater to dry out the soaked/soggy carpeting on both sides. Will see how it all looks next Summer, and will definitely be keeping an eye on it over time.
Last edited by waynehoc on Mon Jan 23, 2006 7:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
waynehoc
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Post by waynehoc »

Oops - should have made my edit a separate post? Pics added to original post...
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Mattel
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My tercel:: 1988 Corolla 4wd Wagon (AKA Corolla All-trac) 5speed, AC, Power Sunroof, Windows, Mirrors, Steering, Locking, Diff Lock, 14" Corolla SX Alloys with Silica Hankook Tyres, 4afe, King Springs, Upgraded Headlights, Full Synth oils, 210,000kms
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Post by Mattel »

Hi Wayne

Looks like you caught it just in time!

Once water tight you could put a rear wheel arch liner from a 4wd on one side and a 2wd on the other as I think they had the Fuel fillers on diferent sides of the car so there should be 2 different types available I guess. Might need a little customisation.

You may even be able to customise something off another car if not.. this might keep a fair bit of water out of your car/ protect the metal from gravel rash.

Matt
Previous: 83 Tercel SR5 4wd, 84 Tercel SR5 4wd
88 Corolla 4wd Wagon 5speed, All power options, Fact Sunroof, Diff Lock, 14" SX Alloys, Hankook Tyres, 4afe, King Springs, Upgraded Headlights, Full Synth oils, Tow Bar, 210,000kms
takza
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Post by takza »

Strange how the "same" car rusts in different ways? Mine had some serious rust on the pass side in front of the tower but down near that bundle of wires...had some sheet metal welded in.

Rear bumper on mine is rusted but no holes.

I use oil in all channels and bottom of doors and hatch...stops 95% of the rusting....I wouldn't trust any other treatment.

I also use oil inside under the front carpets to battle the water collecting there.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.

Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...

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xirdneh
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My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Re: Mr Rust, again

Post by xirdneh »

same stuff I used in the gas tank and lines area. Before any work was done, the areas were dried out thoroughly using a 1500 Watt 110 Volt portable fan/heater, and thoroughly cleaned as well. Also used the same fan/heater to dry out the soaked/soggy carpeting on both sides. Will see how it all looks next Summer, and will definitely be keeping an eye on it over time.[/quote]

my experience has been with the rear side windows leaking into the same areas
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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ARCHINSTL
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My tercel:: Goldie is a 1986 SR5 attualmente con Weber/also owned the first T4WD in STL in late '82
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Post by ARCHINSTL »

waynehoc -
Thanks for the pictures. While my car lived in Nashville its prior 19 years and is truly rust-free, we do have salt here in STL - although none yet so far this year.
I'll have to seal the areas in question this Spring.
Re the plasticized material to which you refer - is it a mastic? And I presume the roofing material to which you refer can be "molded" to conform to curved surfaces.
I noticed most of the little caps covering the access (?) holes in the two longitudinal undercar floor "channels" were missing, so I used rubber "corks" from a hardware store to plug them.
> Has anyone ever used the spray-on stuff that people use to coat the inside of pickup truck beds? It seems pretty thick and looks like it could work as a sealant (after first pressure-washing).
Tom M.
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waynehoc
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Post by waynehoc »

Looks like you caught it just in time!

Once water tight you could put a rear wheel arch liner from a 4wd on one side and a 2wd on the other as I think they had the Fuel fillers on diferent sides of the car so there should be 2 different types available I guess. Might need a little customisation.

You may even be able to customise something off another car if not.. this might keep a fair bit of water out of your car/ protect the metal from gravel rash.
Matt, I have been thinking of exactly that. Probably would require some modding to get something to fit. I hope I did catch it in time!

I use oil in all channels and bottom of doors and hatch...stops 95% of the rusting....I wouldn't trust any other treatment.

I also use oil inside under the front carpets to battle the water collecting there.
takza, I seem to remember your original post recommended ATF for rust-proofing. Oil is just as good? What about used oil (from oil changes)? I guess used oil would stink too much, or be bad in other ways?

Re the plasticized material to which you refer - is it a mastic? And I presume the roofing material to which you refer can be "molded" to conform to curved surfaces.
Oops, my bad, ARCHINSTL, the material I used was rubberized, not plasticized. I have edited my original post so it is correct now. The material I used was from Canadian Tire, and is the material seen here
http://www.dominionsureseal.com/product ... 4&catid=31
The roofing material I got from our local Rona building supply store. It is very flexible, soft aluminum with a backing that is a very sticky asphalt base material, and does indeed conform easily to curves, bumps, indentations, etc. The thickness of the material is only .041". I applied a layer the 'undercoating' material first, then a layer of the roofing stuff, then another layer of the undercoating and then again a layer of the roofing stuff and finally one more layer of the undercoating. Despite what the web site says about the undercoating being brushable (I disagree, for my/our application), I chose to apply it by hand (used a lot of disposable latex gloves in the process). Applying by hand also allowed me to get into nooks and crannies and get really good, forcefully applied coverage.
Typrus
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Post by Typrus »

I'm tempted to get a quote to have the entire thing sandblasted, patched if necessary, then bedliner coated inside and underside, then painted topside.
RIP 10-07- 1984 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

RIP 04-05- 1986 Toyota Tercel SR5 4wd Wagen 6 speed

1st Terc- 1987 Tercel SR5 4wd Wagon 6-speed, Sadly cubed

1985 Tercel Standard 4wd Wagon w/ 3-speed auto, Living a happy life in Boulder last I knew
Lollypop
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Post by Lollypop »

I got ya one better than that Tyrus

I'm gonna coat mine with a product called Durabak, inside and OUT. Completely cover with Durabak. I wont go into the millions of advantages of this product because I aint tryin to sell it but onnce ya put it on I can run off in the middle of the woods and and no limb or tree alive can screw up my paint job...did I mention that it comes in 15 colors? check it out its awesome

http://www.durabakcompany.com/

Heres the link with pics of other guys who did the same

http://www.durabakcompany.com/scratchguard.htm


Ill send pics once I finish

-----Justin-----
1987 Tercel 2WD, 1983 Tercel 4WD
takza
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Post by takza »

The thing about oil is that it is always "active"...in the sense that it never dries...I use old ATF cause that's what I had...motor oil would work. Once you do it 1X...you'll only need less than a pint to refresh it each fall....probably could let it go 2 yrs.

The roofing material I used was a combo of asphalt/rubber/plastic/alum and was put on a clean dry surface...the plastic roof cement was put over the top about 1/8" thick by hand.

The right way to apply roof cement is over a clean/dry surface...and to "rub it in" on the surface in question to be sure of adhesion.
Give a boy a gun-give a biatch a cell phone-and pretty soon you almost got yourself a police state.

Orwell said: War is peace! Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength...

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xirdneh
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My tercel:: 87 tercel 4x4 wagon w/reringed engine, 83 tercel 4x4 wagon w/salvaged engine and 4.1 Diff's
Location: seabeck, washington, USA

Post by xirdneh »

The right way to apply roof cement is over a clean/dry surface...and to "rub it in" on the surface in question to be sure of adhesion.[/quote]



that roofing cement (aka ..black gooey mess making stuff) works great. i used it to patch a hole in the floor of one of my toyotas . Rusted through on passenger side. I smeared that goo over the hole from underneath and pressed aluminum foil over it. it has held for three years, so far. In the rainy northwest. Gasoline cleans it off your hands. its the only thing i've found that works.
Love those Tercell 4x4 wagons but they sure suffer from road noise.
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