It runs and sounds amazing - so I am pretty confident in spark and timing - if you work the accelerator pump or put fuel down the vent tube. The mechanical fuel pump had failed so I put an inline electric pump and installed a pre-carb filter, and it started overflowing out of the charcoal canister
After carefully marking all the vacuum lines, I pulled it off and it was clear someone had tried to get it going before. It had a very shiny throttle cable, but the rest of it was pretty dirty. When apart there was about 1/4" of black tarry substance in the bowl, the needle was installed without the bail around the float valve so it wasn't getting pulled down or pushed up correctly, the secondary solenoid was bent at about a 45 degree angle, the secondaries were stuck shut, just a list of woes. Fortunately I work in a shop so while I was waiting for the rebuild kit to come, I took it apart and soaked it in our sonic, heated parts cleaner, and cleaned it and soaked it and cleaned. The emulsion tubes, jets, power valve, etc were all bench tested and flowing.
When reinstalled, the float valve was working correctly per the sight glass, but still it would only run (and poorly) if my colleague held it at about 1/2 throttle.
I bench tested the primary solenoid and it checked out good. To eliminate it as a suspect i just sealed the hole with a bolt of approx the same length, but now I am wondering if that was the wrong move. I am going to have to bypass the secondary at least for as it sounds like the solenoids are NLA. Should my bolt have worked or are the solenoids an integral part of the system? Is there a way to drill out or remove the core so they are, in essence, always on?
I do have a Weber carb coming this afternoon - should I just not worry about the stock carb and enjoy my $250 performance upgrade? It bugs me that I can't get it to run right but from doing all my research on the forums and watching the great Youtube videos Xirdneh and others have posted, I'm pretty sure that it's the carb and not me.
