Abletobecain wrote: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:42 am
How did you adjust the odometer?
I swapped in an SR5 instrument cluster as well and gained over 50,000 miles in a few minutes!
I carefully pried the little plastic clip off the drum and rolled it back by hand, its a bit of a pain but surprisingly easy to do. Now I question the mileage on every old toyota I see.
Changed inner and outer tie rods; took ol' Jenny in for an alignment.
Shop says they couldn't do the alignment because the front end had too much movement in it. They gave me a nice little list of things to replace though, they wanted $1100 to do it. That doesn't jive with my username here.
$120 worth of parts with $80 shipping from Rockauto are on the way to say the least. Bushings for the front sway bar and control arms, new left hand CV shaft, new ball joints. Maybe this will fix the slam/clunk when I shift too aggressively.
Finished my front end work up yesterday with the installation of some super pro polyurethane sway bar bushings. Oh what a feeling! those poly bushings are worth the extra $$$.
Also I picked up two more tercels to accompany Jenny. One parts car and one beater. Plenty of tercel work to go round!
LowBuckCanuck wrote: Tue Jun 18, 2019 11:41 pm
$120 worth of parts with $80 shipping from Rockauto are on the way to say the least. Bushings for the front sway bar and control arms,
have you already replaced the control arm bushings? I found that to be one of the most annoying jobs on the T4. I preferred to swap the whole control arm out for one that had a good bushing already in it.
LowBuckCanuck wrote: Tue Jun 18, 2019 11:41 pm
$120 worth of parts with $80 shipping from Rockauto are on the way to say the least. Bushings for the front sway bar and control arms,
have you already replaced the control arm bushings? I found that to be one of the most annoying jobs on the T4. I preferred to swap the whole control arm out for one that had a good bushing already in it.
Yeah, I replaced them with oem rubber ones. Broke a vise in the process.
What's the part number on the poly bushings? I'm getting ready to do ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, struts and springs, strut mounts, and control arm bushings. I might as well do the sway bar bushings while I'm in there.
1977 BMW R100S 1WD ("Brunhilda"/Summer Fun)
1983 DLX Tercel Wagon 4WD ("Charlie"/Daily Driver)
1987 SR5 Tercel Wagon 4WD ("Sprocket"/Off-road-Camping)
1985 SR5 Tercel Wagon 4WD ("Lucky"/Project)
1983 SR5 Tercel Wagon 4WD ("Cadaver"/Parts Car)
1985 Ford F250 6.9IDI ("Franklin"/Hauler)
1987 SR5 Tercel Wagon 4WD ("Ravensburger"/in a million pieces)
2006 BMW 530XI Wagon ("Inga"/Roadtripper)
1969 Mercury Montego MX Convertible ("Big Ed"/My Dad's Old Car)
1983 SR5 Tercel Wagon 4WD ("Al"/for sale soon)
Abletobecain wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2019 9:46 am
What's the part number on the poly bushings? I'm getting ready to do ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, struts and springs, strut mounts, and control arm bushings. I might as well do the sway bar bushings while I'm in there.
dlb wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2019 9:23 amhave you already replaced the control arm bushings? I found that to be one of the most annoying jobs on the T4. I preferred to swap the whole control arm out for one that had a good bushing already in it.
I've got the control arm inner bushings on order. My play is to remove the arm (leave the ball joint installed, and take the parts to my local independent shop. They charge me straight time on projects like this, the panhard-to-chassis bushing cost me about $20 to have them press it in (I installed the SuperPro replacement for the obsolete panhard-to-axle bushing myself at home).
Yeah, if I don't have access to good used spare parts then I use the same approach as you now, Prof. We have a mechanic just down the road who doesn't mind pressing stuff for me for a reasonable price. Doing it at home without the proper equipment sucks.
I have replaced the inner lateral link rubber bush with after market ones before, but they did not last very long unfortunately. I have found that if I can pull the lower lateral link from a wrecking yard, and the bushing is in reasonable looking shape, it is much faster and easier just to swap it out, and it last longer.
I do not know if it was the after market bush that was junk, or my home tool for driving them into place caused damage (I have a bushing set of collars and ferrules that I use in a big vise, seamed to work just fine, no damage I could see). I now have a large press I found a moving sale, so should go better next time I need to press out a stubborn bushing or bearing.
dlb wrote: Fri Aug 30, 2019 7:26 pm
Peter, I think LBC is talking about an inner tie rod, whereas it sounds like you're talking about a bushing.
LBC, I've replaced a handful of inner tie rods with no problems. I hope it's just a one off. Are you able to exchange the part at least?
Oh god.. You ever find something on your car that makes you think "I could have died"? That was my left inner tie rod today.
The thing had somehow managed to unscrew itself despite the lock ring, and was held in by three threads. Three threads was all that was keeping me from launching into oncoming traffic.
On the bright side, the tie rod is still good. Just needed to re-tighten it. I'll return the tie rod I purchased tomorrow.
