In line fuse for just the rear Hatch Light?

[Buzzard67]

Is there an inline fuse for just the light in the rear hatch?
This is driving me crazy worked before I blew the main fuse. Changed the light with 2 brand new light bulbs no go.

[irowiki]

No but you may need to check the contact switch for where the hatch closes

[Buzzard67]

No, but you may need to check the contact switch for where the hatch closes

I have a 1984 Toyota Tercel DXL 4WD and can't find the contact switch for the back hatch. There is an on / off switch directly on the light itself. Help.
The other 4 doors have them on the body with the rubber boot still intact.

[marlinh]

Drop the assembly out of the ceiling and confirm that you are getting twelve volts to it. The contacts are pretty finicky for the bulbs. The door switches turn on whichever light is selected on 'door'. The rear light is not exclusive to the switch. I can't remember exactly where the contact switch is for the hatch but I believe it is inside near the latch. If the main dome light comes on when you open the hatch then the switch is OK.

[Buzzard67]

Drop the assembly out of the ceiling and confirm that you are getting twelve volts to it. The contacts are pretty finicky for the bulbs. The door switches turn on whichever light is selected on 'door'. The rear light is not exclusive to the switch. I can't remember exactly where the contact switch is for the hatch but I believe it is inside near the latch. If the main dome light comes on when you open the hatch then the switch is OK.

The main dome light doesn't come on with the opening of the rear hatch. Looking at the main body hatch I can see a big spring laying horizontal that looks like it could pivot if it wasn't rusty. On the rear hatch itself, I see nothing but the lock mechanism.
Will attach the photo.

20190715_171922.jpg

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[NWMO]

Buzzard,

The little “arm” coming in from the side of the main body hatch is likely your switch. Try to move it and possibly lubricate it to ascertain how the switch functions. Be on the look out for loose wires, etc.

Chris

[Neu]

Hey buzzard,

I just stumbled upon this thread upon searching for a solution to my problem.

My rear dome light wasn't working, while my center dome light was. The door turned on the center dome light so I knew the switch was fine.

I grabbed my multimeter and tested the rear dome light. I was getting an odd amount of voltage, like .150 - .200 volts. This made me think a connection was bad so I pulled out the dome light itself(remove the two lens screws, pull it out).

Test the connector, test the switch, and then test the bulb connectors. I was getting 12v from the connector, 12 v on the switch and only .1-.2v on the bulb connectors. So this tells me I have a bad connection.

I whipped out the soldering iron and just quickly added some solder to all the connections.

Popped it back into the car and had 12v to the bulb. Works fine now.

It appears toyota used physical rivet-like connections for this dome light and they can somewhat separate with time. A quick solder fixes everything.

[Petros]

I discovered the same problem on an overhead dome light on a T4wd several years ago. I took the light assembly out of the car, and tapped a punch lightly to the rivets to improve the contact. flattened the rivets a bit. worked fine ever since. no soldering required.

[Neu]

Yeah Petros I went back in and did the same thing. The solder stopped working after a few days. I'd figure vibration probably loosens the connections.