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You might need something like PB Blaster instead of WD40. I'd apply it daily for a week before trying to remove those six bolts... maybe wire brush the tops first - so the oil can seep underneath. Hopefully, the rubber gasket below has protected the threaded areas. Take a look at Rockauto under Fuel...

I answered from my gut... and now should eat crow. The pressure switch is shown on the liquid line before the expansion valve. 20240805_100355.jpg Perhaps better to first check for 12v going to AC clutch when switched on. If power is present, then checking clutch lead wire for 3.7 ohms to ground to ...

Try disconnecting the wires going to the brake fluid level switch. Maybe the switch is stuck closed or shorted to ground.

Could it be low on refrigerant? The low pressure switch will keep the AC clutch from engaging.

I would soak the front strap bolts and rear strap pins with penetrating oil in advance. I had difficulty with the bolts that hold the plastic tank protector to the straps. Once the front strap bolts are loosened, the tension on the strap pins is reduced enough to remove them. I pulled the tank towar...

If you have a 180F/80C thermostat in your Sentra, you should have some time before reaching the boiling point. When you asked about checking for water pump flow, I thought this might be the easiest test. The more I think about your situation, I would try replacing the thermostat first.

Something else to try when the engine is cool: remove the radiator cap and watch it warm up. First move a little coolant from the radiator to the overflow tank to allow for expansion. Start the engine. The coolant should be still until the thermostat begins to open. If the thermostat and water pump ...

Wow... I was shocked when I saw those pics. But this forum could use a jolt, so thanks for providing one. If it works, it's called innovation. If not, well... lesson learned.

I recall the days of breaker points and measuring dwell; the amount of time the points were closed allowing the coil to charge. The 85 FSM warns of grounding coils leads and possibly damaging the igniter or ignition coil, so be careful here. Running like a vacuum line is off could be a number of thi...

That original connector / disconnect might be hard to find. You might try replacing it with an insulated spade disconnect like the yellow one pictured for heavier gauge wire. 414d8TcMI7L.jpg Disconnect the battery when installing. You'll need a crimping / stripper tool. If you don't have one, buy a ...

Does the Euro 4wd wagon use the heater on the primary barrel?

Check the battery voltage while it's running at idle in neutral. If its above 15 volts, the light can come on to warn you that the battery is suffering.

For anyone considering this task, Mr Wrench has a great video with part numbers:
https://youtu.be/h11_au9vYek?si=Y06_Rj05YnQ74z4d

You might have a couple issues to sort out... maybe fuel and ignition. Does it run OK when the engine is cold? My first wagon had a similar problem that turned out to be ignition. It would run fine until warmed up, then sputter out and not restart until it cooled off. I swapped distributors and all ...

I never gave this much thought before I saw this post. I think I'll pull the rotor off and take a peek behind the grease stopper.