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Could it be the EGR valve sticking? Maybe you could monitor the vacuum to the EGR with a gauge and see if there is a connection to the rough running condition... or maybe disconnect it temporarily. I know you have checked a lot on both fuel and ignition, and hope the issue is revealed so we can all ...

Ha ha... love the girls in bikinis. "The Tercel 4WD wagon is a chick-magnet!".

My fuel tank pickup assembly was rusted bad, and I had to replace it. Before I found it in that condition, I thought I might clear out the supply line by applying compressed air up front by the fuel filter inlet. I was surprised to find the line held some pressure. The rust was so bad that the line ...

Looks like a great deal Mr. Wrench, and the price is right.

I would consider safely supporting it with 4 jackstands and having an assistant idle it in first gear. You might locate the noise without getting under the wagon. Hopefully it's something simple, like a brake spring rolling around in the drum.

Sounds like a break is in order. Ditch the sooty plugs and when you are ready to try again, verify TDC and see that the rotor is at number one (not past). If you can see fuel in the sight glass, i would avoid "priming" it. Rather check that pushing the throttle delivers a pump shot and sets the ...

The black wire is tach output. After the ECM, it goes to the AC amplifier to disconnect the compressor if RPM is too low. Probably just a pulsed output signal on that wire.
The high altitude compensator (HAC) will advance timing by applying vacuum to the sub-diaphragm on the distributor, but no ...

I wonder if you have 2 bad distributors? Can you connect a meter between the power (B-Y) lead and distributor case ground to verify 12v during cranking? Are you trying a different cap and rotor too? Maybe the high voltage is getting stopped there. In the repair guides section, Nordical25 has a ...

Nice wagon! Reminds me of my first T4 with the classic blue plaid interior.
Others have reported troubles with venting on aftermarket tanks... but an old sending unit may report less than full. If the screws are not rusted, carefully removing the sender will allow a closer look inside. The idle ...

You might need something like PB Blaster instead of WD40. I'd apply it daily for a week before trying to remove those six bolts... maybe wire brush the tops first - so the oil can seep underneath. Hopefully, the rubber gasket below has protected the threaded areas.
Take a look at Rockauto under ...

I answered from my gut... and now should eat crow. The pressure switch is shown on the liquid line before the expansion valve.
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Perhaps better to first check for 12v going to AC clutch when switched on. If power is present, then checking clutch lead wire for 3.7 ohms to ground ...

Try disconnecting the wires going to the brake fluid level switch. Maybe the switch is stuck closed or shorted to ground.

Could it be low on refrigerant? The low pressure switch will keep the AC clutch from engaging.

I would soak the front strap bolts and rear strap pins with penetrating oil in advance. I had difficulty with the bolts that hold the plastic tank protector to the straps. Once the front strap bolts are loosened, the tension on the strap pins is reduced enough to remove them. I pulled the tank ...

If you have a 180F/80C thermostat in your Sentra, you should have some time before reaching the boiling point. When you asked about checking for water pump flow, I thought this might be the easiest test. The more I think about your situation, I would try replacing the thermostat first.