Tercel4WD.com

this one's a Westin brand from a ford explorer, brackets were modified and welded to the front crossmember.

The brackets are actually the mounting bracket for a gen 2 ford explorer(which I removed it from before trading it in for my Yaris) that have been cut down so it's essentially bar stock with a hole for the push bar's bolt. I left the bolts snug so I could align the push bar on the front cross member ...

Got a little project out of the way, cut a bracket and welded it to the front crossmember, this push bar looks like it was meant to be there lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/vervepipes/tercel/100_2905.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/vervepipes/tercel/100_2906.jpg
http://img ...

toughtercel wrote:ohh boy I call this fun !
(4) rear wiper arm 83-84 flat down ( HOZ..) for 85-88 wiper arm straight up (VERICAL)
rome on the edge.

mine's an '85 and the wiper lays horizontal at rest

I dont think it looks bad with the 175/65 R14's taken from my yaris, better than the rusty OEM steelies anyways. I stole these to not wear out my studded winter tires...

May as well get better pics now that I have them.

4AC swap went well, runs great but I havent tuned the carb yet so I bet I can get it running better and get a bit better than 9L/100Km that I'm getting in mixed driving now, guess it doesnt help that I idle a lot while delivering pizzas...
http ...

I have a yaris sedan as my primary car and yes the paint chips and scratches very easily. It also has a very small trunk but as a commuter it serves its purpose well.

it'll last long enough in dry alberta, the frame and floor are rust free

the 4a-c is in and running, with an intermittent loping idle but it hasnt been there for my last trip out so here's hoping it worked itself out. it was an easy swap to make a 4a-c from a 4a-f but there were a few unexpected differances.
- oil pimp housing is not the same
-timing covers are not the ...

I think I'll hang on to the -f head for now, maybe in the future I'll have time to make a manifold but for now I need it on the road for my 2nd job hence the 4a-c conversion. The swap is almost done, the block's in place, just need to re-attatch a few things and set the head on it and it's good to ...

the "hard points" on the block itself is where you have to look, the mounts themselves would not work. you need to take the whole mounts from your 3a to bolt onto the 4a block. I was thinking of a 4a-f but there were too many issues to deal with on a zero budget replacement, so I'm using my good 3a ...

alright, spent hours reading after not finding what I wanted with the search button, I think I'll take the 4a-f's block and mate it to the 3a-c's head, oil pan and oil pick up and that will avoid the distributer problem, the carb problem and the exhaust routing problem. In this case I can try to ...

I found a solution to the bearing in the 3A-C: a good 16V 4A-F. Found it for 100 bucks, I talked it down to 50 bucks including the rwd trans (from a rwd corolla). Issues are the missing distributer and the "feedback" carb that has it's wiring harness slashed. I'll measure and see if a regular 4A ...

OK, new developement, with higher idle I can hear it's in the bottom end at the front with my trusty stethoscope, disconnecting the spark plugs doesnt affect it though. Also in today's hunting the oil pressure light illuminated...

OK, after a bit of searching on the forum lets see what we have the noise narrowed down to.

-The previous owner thinks it's a main bearing, but I cant narrow it down using my stethoscope or by unplugging spark wires one at a time.
-Noise from water pump is normal, alternator sounds very noisy ...