4A-F

[vervepipes]

I found a solution to the bearing in the 3A-C: a good 16V 4A-F. Found it for 100 bucks, I talked it down to 50 bucks including the rwd trans (from a rwd corolla). Issues are the missing distributer and the "feedback" carb that has it's wiring harness slashed. I'll measure and see if a regular 4A carb will work. Also, this model has the intake on one side and the exhaust on the other, so I'll need to check to see if there is any clearance issues as far as exhaust goes. All else fails I'll find a 4A-c head and call it a day.

Will my 3A dizzy work on the 4A-F? That would save me a headache to begin with.

Thanks!

[vervepipes]

alright, spent hours reading after not finding what I wanted with the search button, I think I'll take the 4a-f's block and mate it to the 3a-c's head, oil pan and oil pick up and that will avoid the distributer problem, the carb problem and the exhaust routing problem. In this case I can try to sell the -f head as well as the transmission and maybe recover a bit more of the cost.

[SirNik83]

The head is the best part! LOL

If you had the time the 16v head would be worth the effort to make it fit in the car. I'd keep it!

That said, if you don't want it, I'd like to buy it! PM me and we'll talk price and shipping.

[Petros]

To use a 4af engine you would need a custom exhaust header (typically about $600-700 from a custom shop, perhaps half that if you can find a skilled welder with a backyard/home shop), than you would also need almost a full new exhaust system to run under the driver's side, swap over to distributor-less ignition (after markets perhaps $800, wrecking yard from a newer model Toyota, about $100 for everything) or you can cut a hole in the firewall of the Tercel to make the stock distributor fit, and than you can install a nice simple throttle body injection system on the existing manifold (also from a wrecking yard, about $50 worth of parts), or try to get the stock carb working, or put on a weber ($400 new, or about $150 used from e-bay). You would also have to route the rad hoses from the back of the engine to the front, not that big a deal, but then you would all set.

The twin cam 16-valve head would be nice to keep, but as you can see it is a major job to make it work. If you switch over the head, oil pan and pick-up and everything else from the 3ac to the 4af short block, you would be building a 4ac.

Good luck.

[vervepipes]

I think I'll hang on to the -f head for now, maybe in the future I'll have time to make a manifold but for now I need it on the road for my 2nd job hence the 4a-c conversion. The swap is almost done, the block's in place, just need to re-attatch a few things and set the head on it and it's good to go.

[vervepipes]

the 4a-c is in and running, with an intermittent loping idle but it hasnt been there for my last trip out so here's hoping it worked itself out. it was an easy swap to make a 4a-c from a 4a-f but there were a few unexpected differances.
- oil pimp housing is not the same
-timing covers are not the same
-a-c timing cover doesnt fit on -f oil pump body

I wound up needing to cut the cover to fit, otherwise if you arent as cheap as me you'd just get a new gasket and swap over the pump...

other items needed from the a-c block already covered in other threads are:
-water pump and associated lines
-oil pickup tube and pan
-all mounts and brackets
-oil pressure sensor (-f had a different electrical contact)
-drive plate
-engine backing plate

I think thats all. This isnt what would be a common swap, it was just handy that I got a running 4a-f and it was easier and cheaper to use my head to make a 4a-c. Total cost of car, parts and labour (4$/hour at the base motor hobby club) is sitting around 200 bucks for a car that will likely last years down the road and deliver many a pizza for my second job

[takza]

My guess is that unless you stop the rust in the front and rear wheel wells and on the frame underneath...it might not last that long.

[vervepipes]

it'll last long enough in dry alberta, the frame and floor are rust free