In serious need of help

taz350 · Post by **taz350** » Fri May 06, 2005 11:23 pm

We have a 1984 Toyota Tercel 4 door station wagon that is not running. The car has a 4 cylinder engine and has front wheel drive. About a year ago the car needed a new starter so we had a friend replace it. Our friend messed up somewhere and now the car only starts with a wire hooked to the starter and touched to the positive side of the battery. This is the least of our problems though. Shortly after the starter was put in, the car was sitting and running fine and then suddenly stalled. When we restarted the car it wouldn't stay running unless you had your foot on the gas. (it would stall otherwise). Tried to adjust the throttle cable but it just made the car idle high and it overheated quickly. We rebuilt the carb and when we hooked it back up a piece that screws into the carb and down to the overflow tank broke off. (not sure of the name but we think it's throttle control censor) The car does start but it idles like someone is sitting there with their foot holding the gas peddle to the floor. Both butterfly plates on the carb are closed. What could be the cause of this??? We love this car but are not sure whether it is worth the money to take it in to be fixed, if it can be fixed!! Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, as this car his been sitting for some time now, and we don't want to junk it :unsure: because it never had any major problems before this. Can anyone help us out on what to do or what might be wrong?? Thanks for your time.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Fri May 06, 2005 11:33 pm

Don't rebuild it again... Go Weber.

The Weber is tauted as the best Tercel 3A-C mod out there.

taz350 · Post by **taz350** » Sat May 07, 2005 12:53 pm

Ok, what is weber and what is it for?? Also I forgot to list in my original post that this car is an automatic. Cars like mine aren't found around here anymore. That is why I turned to this forum for help. I am not going to rebuild again (had enough trouble the first time) but I'm not sure of what is wrong with the car, so I can't fix it. Well anyways, anymore advice would really be appreciated. Thanks so much.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sat May 07, 2005 1:20 pm

Its a carburator. A very efficient one. Do a search on it, or just browse the General/General section.

Its called the Weber 32/36 DGEV (DGAV sometimes)

I put a thread up titled 32/26 DGEV, Is it worth it? In the General section. Check it out.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun May 08, 2005 5:32 am

Sounds like your mechanic friend might have fried something by crossing some wires...if you don't work on cars...best bet is to find a good mech and let them fix it.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Sun May 08, 2005 10:12 am

download the service manual, it worked for me

post_a_query · Post by **post_a_query** » Sun May 08, 2005 9:27 pm

there is definately hope to get that bugger running. no need to swap carbies one for another. quite often the problems are vacuum related when there are idling issues. there is 30 feet of 3mm vacuum line under the hood and three in-line filters. go get the german variety with the woven fabric around it as it helps reduce wear by heat , rubbing or time (they eventually will get a bit of oil on them and that's A-OK).

get the line, the filters, some nitrile, vinyl or rubber gloves to keep tidy, and a set of 10 inch needle nose pliers (straight, 45, and 90) and good nippers. start at one side, start low and go higher. use the pliers to wriggle the ends loose from the brass lines and then tug.

likely after an hour and a half of toil your idle issues will lessen. after that, give an update and we'll help you get further on.
rromig

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun May 08, 2005 10:16 pm

Where can I get this stuff?

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon May 09, 2005 5:44 am

In the US the vac line is not made in mm sizes and is poor quality compared to the original tubing...which for the most part is still in good condition after 20 yrs or so. Haven't seen the good stuff...

post_a_query · Post by **post_a_query** » Mon May 09, 2005 8:11 pm

the line i used came from an air-cooled vw shop. if'n you need to get some, i'll do the running (contact me off line through the members' list). i mis-spoke when i mentioned the footage as it is nearly 20 feet that cost me a bit over 30 and those three little canister looking bits are a pester to get through toyota as they were universal in 1983 and lack proper listings as "cv" or control valve. when i get a chance, i'll look for the number on one of the reciepts.

good suggestion that everyone should take if they haven't already:

get a factory service manual

of course there are cd-roms that aid in trouble shooting, but us folks on the list have likely tried everything between us to get every trial under control.

that's for starters, until then, oil the chain on your bike and know that it takes time as a human-trained mechanic to get the job done right, unlike those lucky fellas that are mechanic-trained humans.

good luck...
let us know how you progress
of course, if you can't find the 3mm line at a vw joint, ping me

rromig