What breaks on a Tercel?

[LittleRed4wd]

So in preparation for some local off road trips, as well as a possible expedition to Utah this summer I've been putting together a list of spare parts and tools to carry with me in the rig. I've got the basic stuff- Rad hoses, belts, fluids. What parts have you guys seen break on these things under hard driving? I've replaced most of the typical wear-out parts, but are there some that are more prone to failure/ I'd want a spare if I'm heading to the middle of no where?

[North of 64]

I'd pack Petros or dlb in my spares kit

[Lil Beast]

A set of control arm with good ball joints and maybe tie rods, also some sway bar end link bushes ! A spare CV joint would not hurt! And a couple of spare wheels! Good basic tool box, jack and few specialty tools optional(ball joint separator, the big socket for the CV), brake fluid! That should be more than enough!
I don't know your driving, maybe inspect the rubber brake line on the front caliper for wear or sign of aging(grayish and cracks)! But when I drive fast in the puddles in the back roads they are pretty much the 1st thing that goes if too worn or old!

[dlb]

I'd pack Petros or dlb in my spares kit

i'm flattered! merci beaucoup, N64.

how off road are you talking? if you mean logging roads with the occasional short foray into the woods for a camping spot, i wouldn't worry about CVs or ball joints or anything like that. those things can fail and still be completely driveable for many more kms. i think the basics you mentioned are suitable, along with a spare tire, jack, good tool kit with wrenches, sockets, pliers, flat and phillips screw drivers. maybe an alternator if you doubt yours and will be way out there for days/weeks on end.

i have zero experience with true off roading but my pals that do it routinely break all kinds of stuff. i can't see the attraction to wrecking a vehicle i've worked so hard on. maybe bring each CV, a sway bar...a welder to reattach the panhard rod to the axle...ugh.

[Petros]

on a car this old almost anything can break at any time. Presuming you have given the car a good detailed inspection of the suspension, brakes and tires, what I take are things that if they fail will leave you stranded, so that leaves only a few items;

Alternator, distributor assembly, fan belts, spare hoses, permatex (form-a-gasket), spark plug wires. Most other failures will not leave you so stranded you can not limp back to an Autozone store and buy or order what you need.

tools I always carry are 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm sockets (with handles) and combo wrenches, several socket extension and socket u-joint, long nose pliers, wire cutters, adjustable wrench, small volt-ome meter, one each philips and flat screwdriver. a roll each of duct tape and electrical tape.

If you are going for an extended trip I would also bring the big socket for removing the cv axle nut and a big breaker bar, and a torque wrench. With those things I have done every thing from replaced head gaskets and transmissions when on the road.

Seldom do things like wheel bearings, tie-rod ends, cv joints, seals, etc. break without warning, and can be run a long time even when going bad. So you have to check these things out before you go, replace if necessary, and than you know it will not likely just fail on you. No way to test if an alternator or coil pack is about to fail, they either work or they do not. A starter failure is just a nuisance because you can always push start it (with a manual trans), starter failures are pretty rare anyway.

Make sure all your fluids are fresh and topped up before you go. If you will be in remote areas for long periods of time you might consider mounting an extra spare tire on the roof.

I would be up to going with you but I do not have a lot of time for trips like that. Besides, where is the adventure in that?
Good luck, and have fun.

[Highlander]

If I were you, Sam, I'd put the car back up on the 14s that you had on it this winter- Low riders and 4 wheeling don't mix! I'd also carry an extra oil filter and a change of oil- even though the drain plug is above the crossmember, it'd be a drag to rip it off/open and not have anything to refill it with. BTDT it sucks.

[ARCHINSTL]

And to add to Highlander's oil suggestion - take an extra drain plug.

Also - looong Zip ties - gallon of water for radiator and can of StopLeak (word?) - make sure spare is filled - tire patching kit - foot pump - JB Weld - small coil of baling wire & nippers - new can of brake fluid - fire extinguisher (should have one in every car anyway) - SAFETY GLASSES!
Tom M.

[LittleRed4wd]

Thanks for the suggestions! I like the oil plug idea- I never thought of that. I'll have a full size spare on the roof, for Moab I may bring two and leave one at camp. Control arms with ball joints would be good too- It'd be pretty hard to get anywhere with one of those broken!

[toughtercel]

also 18 mm socket , that where I find a bolt that hold pulley on front of crankshaft , in case you want to rotate the motor for timing . you better check your in case if different than mine . Better bring few head lights,exterior door handles,(my break few times)

[Petros]

all of the front pulley nuts have been 19mm on mine, but I think I did run across one once that was slightly bigger, I used a 3/4" socket on it I think.

I have NEVER found a nut or bolt that was not 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 on the Tercel, excpt the front axle nut (23 mm?) and one jet in the carb you need a 1/4" drive deep 9mm socket to remove. Not likely to need that on a trip.

[Jarf]

Personally, I would rather install all the new parts before leaving, carry the old ones as spares if you feel the need.
If there are repairs that are pending, carry them out before leaving and reduce headaches wherever possible.
If it's in good shape and up to date on all repairs/mntce there shouldn't be any surprises.

I'd be looking at emergency repair/consumables mentioned above as well as wiper blades and a distributor, nothing ruins your day faster than a blown igniter/coil.

[LittleRed4wd]

Yeah, I pretty much have all new parts, and I'll carry the the old ones or the ones from the parts car as spares. I'm regretting selling my old dizzy- I didn't think about how it can just stop working for good. I'll pick up a spare soon.

SO has anyone had a cv just blow? I know they'll usually click till you get annoyed and replace it, but I'd hate to be stuck driving out in rwd because one suddenly fell apart.

[Lil Beast]

I've seen once but not a tercel! And we where beating the shit out af that cavalier, doin jumps and stuff! But it blew cause of the ball joint that poped out and the cv followed staying on the wheel but out the trans and pretty much ripped the whole control arm apart bending it, the cv was still good but was stuck in the wheel so had to use another one! It would of happen to any vehicle considering the kind of driving lol!

[toughtercel]

SO has anyone had a cv just blow? I know they'll usually click till you get annoyed and replace it, but I'd hate to be stuck driving out in rwd because one suddenly fell apart.

I'm not sure which one you mean = as for the C.V. rubber boot , just look at any cracks between "V" shape , it a good idea to replace other wise you will loose all your grease and collect craps in the balls bearing , then next as for checking the "C.V balls " , you drive "around the circle clockwise and counter clockwise and repeat couple listen to listen the " cluck cluck sound " if very tiny sound then I would skip it .

[Petros]

I suppose it could happen, but I have not see it on a Toyota. They give long warning before impending failure. I drove a T4wd cross country that I picked up cheap, with bad boots and clicking cv, including across hot TX deserts (about 3000 miles). within the lats 400 miles one of them started squeaking at slow speeds (lube ran dry because of torn boots), and both developed slight vibrations. But none failed, replaced when I got back.

If your boots are good and there is not issues as far at clunking or thumping, should last a long time. I drove one of my daily driver over a year (about 30k miles) after it started clicking, as a test. It got to clunck so bad I replaced it long before failure because it became very annoying.