Loss of Power at altitude

Banjo Kayaker · Post by **Banjo Kayaker** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 9:53 pm

Just joined this forum. You folks have helped me a great deal with this car. Big Thank You!

Anyways I have a '87 SR5 3AC, but its the California model which did not come with an HAC ( High Altitude Compensator). Anyways, had a lot of problems with it last winter in Summit county Colorado, and now I am in Utah for the winter. Right around 6,000ft she hits a wall. What can I do, timing wise to help this. Now the timing is already set to 13 degrees before TDC. Is that where it should always be, or just when the HAC is activitated. There is no vacuum tube on one of the ports on the vacuum advance sub diaphragm under the distributer cap.The one they tell you in the manual to take off for adjusting the timing. Any ideas?

Also, is there any way I could make a dash switch that I could just switch on when I get to higher altitudes?

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 4:24 am

I've got an '83 Cal model without HAC...but I'm under 1000 ft right now. Timing is at about 12 degrees BTDC. Vac advance on my dist is probably OK.

The "system" on this engine is supposed to advance the timing and lean out the engine at higher altitudes.

My guess is that you need to get the vac advance set up right on the dist before you'll get the power back. Also sounds like you might need to go thru and check or replace your vac lines.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 11:55 pm

Living at a nice 5800 feet, my baby purrs like a kitten. For some odd reason, just going into town, a loss of only 800 feet, it has a lot more oomph to it. I don't think I have the California model, at least my block doesn't say 3A-C, just 3A.

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 5:54 am

Typrus wrote: Living at a nice 5800 feet, my baby purrs like a kitten. For some odd reason, just going into town, a loss of only 800 feet, it has a lot more oomph to it. I don't think I have the California model, at least my block doesn't say 3A-C, just 3A.

See if you have a sticker under the hood...check to see if it's the original hood?

3AC doesn't mean California...just the engine series.....sticker should say if it is.......

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 9:16 am

I was under the impression the 3A-C was the version of the 3A with emission controls equipment.

GTSSportCoupe · Post by **GTSSportCoupe** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 10:05 am

Typrus wrote: I was under the impression the 3A-C was the version of the 3A with emission controls equipment.

Same here.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Dec 06, 2004 8:17 pm

My air filter cover says 3A-C, block says 3A, one sticker on the hood says 3A, and another says 3A-C. I have some catalytic converter cool-air intake thing in the engine bay, if that makes any difference.

Is there a guide to how to back-flush?

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 5:57 am

Back flush coolant?

instructions on package?????????

* drain all coolant into a container

* make sure heater control is open

* make sure rad cap is OFF!!!

* install tee...connect hose

* also clean out overflow resv

Banjo Kayaker · Post by **Banjo Kayaker** » Sat Dec 11, 2004 11:46 am

So I have decided to replace all of my vacuum hoses, but where should I route the vacuum port that is on the vacuum advancer? Haven't really found any other ports that don't have hose on them. I haven't looked for one extensively though.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sun Dec 12, 2004 6:34 am

You need a vac diagram specific for your car...87 and Cal...? Maybe the '85 FSM on the front page is close enough.

If somebody has messed with them.........?

Dists usually have 2 or 3 vac hoses coming off of them?

Careful about the vac hose you buy...old hose is metric and US hose isn't. Can use plastic ties to cinch the ends though.

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Wed Dec 15, 2004 11:59 pm

If you can't resolve your problem, get in touch with me. I live up in Cache Valley. Maybe we can get together to fix your problem. We can also BS about kayaking over a few beers.

2wagons · Post by **2wagons** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:25 am

Banjo Kayaker, my vacuum routing sticker on my hood was no longer legible, so I ordered a new one from Toyota. I think it was around $5, one of the better bargains from the dealership. I provides a clear picture of the routing of the vac lines. I told them my VIN and they selected the correct vacuum diagram. This assumes, of course, that there has not been an engine swap <_< .

Retroloc1 · Post by **Retroloc1** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:14 am

Do you have the OEM settings for the ignition timing ?

My distributor is a bit worn, I'm not sure of the centrifugal advance.

As worst gas I can get is 95 Ocatne, so I raised the static advance from 7Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â° BTDC to 10Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â°.

I'd like to know the whole curve to check my tuning.

Chris · Post by **Chris** » Thu Dec 16, 2004 9:17 pm

If you tell me what year and whether it's a 3-A or a 3-AC, which transmission,and if it's a Canada, Fed or Calif. I could get you the centrifugal and vacuum advance info.

Retroloc1 · Post by **Retroloc1** » Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:47 am

It's a '83 with 3A and 6 speed manual trans.
It's an european model, so fully classic about ignition and emissions.
Points in distributor, centrifugal and vacuum advance.
No catalysator, no air pump, no EGR... classic !
No AC nor powersteering...etc

At present I have 10Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â° advance at 900rpm instead of 7Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â°, 20Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â° at 3000rpm and 25Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â° at 5000rpm. 52 or 53%Dwell

I use 95 Octane. That in fact a 85-95 that might mean 90 Octane in american standarts.

The axle of my centrifugal masses is a bit worrn, their springs are genuine.
I never noticed knock.

I don't know if 25Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â° @ 5000 is right but it's lazy in high-revs and I'm wondering why. The max power should be at 5200 and the red line at 6000 but it's unuseful to shout over 4000 or 4500rpm.

I neither know if my intake valves are clean, that might be a reason, but I'd like first to ensure my spark setting is right.