New to the forums

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 3:13 pm

Hey Tercel guys (girls?)
I don't own a Tercel yet, but I've been reading about them, and think it'd be a fantastic car.
Currently I own a 2006 Mazda3, which I absolutely love. But I'm looking for a winter car that has 4WD. The Mazda3 just doesnt cut it in the snow, and I'm worried someone will hit it.
I'm not saying the Tercel is a junk, but it'd honestly cost less then my 6month insurance premium

I live in the Portland area, and have seen a couple Tercels for sale, one in Portland which i think sold already, and one near Tacoma, but I havent heard back from the guy yet.
I'm semi-knowledgable about cars. Did moderate work on my old Mazda Protege (rotor, timing, exhaust, electrical).
So i think I could handle most of the minor to moderate problems I'd encounter with an older car.
So, just thought I would introduce myself, and if anyone might know of someone selling a Tercel in the OR/WA area, shoot me a line, I've got cash in hand

Ohh, I'm also looking at Subaru Justy's. They seem to be along the same lines at the Tercel 4WD. Both fantastic looking cars for what I need

Cheers!

Brent

*EDIT*
Also, since I noticed many members on this board are neighbors to the far north, there was a Canadian only model of the Mazda Progege, the GTX model, which was AWD. So, if any of you far north people know of one of those for sale, I would totaly go to Canada to pick it up... I absolutely love Proteges

Thanks!

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:43 pm

Heh. I have limited experience with the Protege, but the ones I saw I was..... Iffy about.
The Justy makes our cars look quite fast. I have yet to hear a complaint about anything other than their size and lack of performance. If you can find an AWD, let us know.

The Tercel is a pretty easy car to work on. I have gained most of my experience with it, it and our Passat. If you have a little auto savvy already and are willing to read if you have to, it shouldn't be anything you can't handle.
My BIGGEST suggestion is to look for one with as little rust as possible. Its easy enough to replace the tranny (cost is the biggest part) and we have a few suggestions for engines and the likes, but clearing up the rust is a royal pain to do right.

Let us know what happens, and welcome!

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:16 pm

Wow, right after posting this, I saw this ad on craigslist:

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/240170463.html

5spd, 4wd

I'm psyched about it, hopefuly I can make it happen

*edit*

he sold it already

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:21 pm

She looks pretty clean. Looks like you'll be doing some brake work though. Why? Look at the color of that brake fluid. It should be clear... Just a preparatory thought. No fear though, the brakes are easy and cheap to do. Master Cylinder- $120ish for new. I think you can buy a rebuild kit, which is easy enough to do btw, so long as the metal bore isn't scored, for around $31 if the rebuild kit for the 81's MC is any idea. All rubber hosing comes to... Jeeze,maybe $70 for all 4? New Wheel Cylinder's in the back are pretty cheap. New loaded (go Semi-Metallic if you can) calipers aren't too bad. Those are the biggest things that wear with time. The black you see in brake fluids is actually mostly rubber bits (very tiny albeit) suspended in the fluid. Part of it is also oxidized.
Did you know brake fluid is designed to absorb water? Even the new Synthetics. Why is that important? The older fluid gets, the more water it has, the more it rusts metal and rots rubber. Brake fluid flushes very much need to be part of a regular maintainence schedule.

Here's NAPA's prices for an 85.

$46.49 for master cyl kit w/power brakes
13/16" bore. I don't know what stock is.

$204 for new master cyl w/power brakes
1" bore- A bigger bore can flow more fluid but gives less hydraulic advantage. In other words, a bigger bore results in less braking power per pedal force.

$37.99 (+22.50 core) for reman w/power (doesn't specificy on the site, but its right)
13/16" bore

Advance Auto for the calipers (Advance has good brakes, so long as you go Bendix, Cardone, or Beck Arnley)
Cardone Semi-Met loaded calipers
Right- $57.77 (+25 core)
Left- $57.77 (+25 core)

I only put those for calipers because I had bad experience with NAPA sending me the wrong calipers, and I couldn't tell if the Bendix's were Semi-MEt loaded or Organic.

Brake hoses- Both fronts are the same
Front- $9.49 each Raybestos from AAP
Rear Right- $10.99
Rear Left - $10.99

Wheel Cylinders
$20/each NAPA

Rear drums

$63.49 each (the drums themselves might not be replaced, but I'd personally recommend it) NAPA

Front Rotors

$17.49 each (basic, premium recommended, but there are alternatives)
NAPA

Shoes and Hardware

$29.29 (+core $6.50) I assume this is a set... NAPA

So I kind of got carried away... lol...

I recommend you look around this site for mods or the likes.

But seriously, at least flush all the fluids if you get this car.

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:34 pm

Thats some great information.
I've never owned an older, so knowing what things most likely need replaced/flushed is helpful.
Im bummed that he sold the car already, but someone got a great deal (heard he sold it for $700)

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:24 pm

He did? That sucks. Well, keep looking. Again, rust is a big issue.

ctishman · Post by **ctishman** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:24 pm

Damn, too bad that was sold out from under you. I'm down in Eugene, by the way. Lots of Terc folks in Oregon. I maintain that we oughtta have a meet.

Mickey_D · Post by **Mickey_D** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 1:17 am

Skullone, if you get a Tercel, you WILL not be disapointed in the snow handling capabilities.

I lived in Aloha for several years and I know what type of snow/ice you guys get. And I can tell you right now if you have another ice storm like you did a couple years ago, you and the other Terc 4WD owners will be the only ones moving.

The only thing I envy you guys for is the availability of Les Schwab for tires. Thier Wild Country RVT tires are unbeatable in the snow for the price. If you get a Terc, pick up a set of 14" 4 bolt wheels off a Dodge Aries and get a set of those Wild Country tires. I've had them on every car I could fit them on before moving out here.

The only low point to winter driving in a Terc 4WD is the woefully inadequate heater. I do believe that the Toyota engineers thought that the 2 door trunk model's heater core would suffice to work in the cavernous station wagon as well. Sadly, it just doesn't have the BTU output to handle much below about 15-20 degrees F.

Trust me when I say I know about snow. I live out in snow country capital. And there's NOTHING I'd rather have for getting around in the snow than my Yoda. And I have the availability of a Chevy 1/2 ton 4X4, my wife's Dodge Neon, my neighbor has an old Subaru Legacy, a coworker has a Ford Ranger 4X4, etc. I've driven LOTS of cars in all sorts of conditions, and I can honestly say the little Terc is fantastic under slippery conditions.

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 4:50 am

Mickey_D wrote:The only low point to winter driving in a Terc 4WD is the woefully inadequate heater. I do believe that the Toyota engineers thought that the 2 door trunk model's heater core would suffice to work in the cavernous station wagon as well. Sadly, it just doesn't have the BTU output to handle much below about 15-20 degrees F.

Maybe you should adjust and lube your heater controls?

Iain · Post by **Iain** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:19 am

takza wrote:
Mickey_D wrote:The only low point to winter driving in a Terc 4WD is the woefully inadequate heater. I do believe that the Toyota engineers thought that the 2 door trunk model's heater core would suffice to work in the cavernous station wagon as well. Sadly, it just doesn't have the BTU output to handle much below about 15-20 degrees F.
Maybe you should adjust and lube your heater controls?

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:04 am

Interesting comment about the heater.
I came to my then-new '83 from a '69 VW Bus and was pleasantly and sybaritically toasted by hot-water heat. My daughters hounded me to "turn it down," but the uproar subsided when I reminded them of their scraping frost from the inside of the windshield whilst driving...

Something that might help (front-seat) folk would be to block/remove the two tubes bleeding air to the rear seats. In an extreme situation, you could adapt my jury-rig on long solo trips in the VW: Hang a blanket-curtain from the roof to the floor behind the front seats. Vision to the rear was compromised, it is true, but at least the front stayed slightly above freezing...
Tom M.

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:25 am

Doh! I didn't plan on the heater not being great -- I take heat/cold for granted in my Mazda3. It has auto climate control, and pre-heat that gets the car warm before the engine even warms up. Plus the 2 front heated seats makes for a toasty bum.

How much electrical power does the Terc have? Might be wise get get an inverter for the cig plug, and run a small space heater in there?
May not be super safe... but I do like to be warm!

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:34 am

They came with 50-60 amp alternators, trim and year determines.

My heater works fine. Albeit I have to go push the valve all the way open. My heater controls are a bit stiff. If my back didn't keep giving out, I'd probably get in the and adjust/lube everything.

I have to roll my freaking window down sometimes because it gets too hot. The thing kicks about as much heat out as our F-250 Powerstroke. Maybe more than our Passat.

The biggest issue I have is that I will be broiling in the front and the back-seaters will be asking if the heat works. I've considered installing a supplementary heater core in the back... Just to keep them warm.

skullone · Post by **skullone** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:54 am

I noticed your sig, says you crashed one...
How did you fare in the accident? I'm not expecting 5 star, but I'd like to know what to set my medical coverage at for insurande

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:27 am

I hit a mountain at 70+MPH. I bent the unit body and lower control arm significantly enough to... Well, look here. http://www.tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtop ... 14&start=0

I'm fine. Didn't hit my head or anything like that. If I had the money, or maybe even if I told the insurance company it happened, I could've had it fixed, but its pretty significant. However, the same car went into a 5 foot deep large-rock lined ditch at about 30mph at an angle, bounced out the other side, and with a much terrified me drove home and went problem free till it hit the hill.

BTW, yes, I do keep changing the speed I tell everyone I hit it at. Its about 2 years in the past now. The lasttime I looked at the speedo I was doing a little over 75MPH, merged onto the dirt, and slowed a tiny bit while pondering my total lack of control. So there it is. If I quote you a lower number, either I'm out of my mind or I'm embarrassed to say just how fast I was merging onto dirt.