How to remove the instrument control panel?

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:35 pm

I found out yesterday after removing the radio, the passenger's seat, and some other stuff that the lever that controls the "COOL" and "HEAT" is bent and cannot be fixed. Due to this I can't fully move the lever to one side or the other. What needs to be removed to replace the control panel? I hope to head out to a junkyard hopefully soon. All help is appreciated.

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 3:57 am

That's why I lubed and adjusted mine...seemed it would get crapped out if I didn't. Can't bend that part back to original shape?

Looked like the panel and the cables were one assembly.

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 5:02 pm

Yes, lubing the cables is a very good idea. The car was like this when I bought it. I might just be able to bend it back but part of the lever has torn off of the other metal part. Might be able to use solder to reinforce?? What else could be used? How about JB Weld?

I still haven't figured out how to remove that control panel. I removed some of the vent ducting and I was able to access the blower motor resistor and that's the problem why the motor only turns on two speeds. Pretty simple.

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:55 am

tercel4wdrules wrote:I still haven't figured out how to remove that control panel.

......saw that it wouldn't be easy...didn't get the one from the parts car because I couldn't figure out how. Probably have to disconnect the cables at the doors and pull them thru the opening?

xirdneh · Post by **xirdneh** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 8:32 am

takza wrote:
tercel4wdrules wrote:I still haven't figured out how to remove that control panel.
......saw that it wouldn't be easy...didn't get the one from the parts car because I couldn't figure out how. Probably have to disconnect the cables at the doors and pull them thru the opening?

the heater control panel is a bitch to remove. all of the cables need to be disconnected at the doors and the cable that passes through the firewall disconnected at the water control valve. then finding all the screws to be remved. when you do manage to get it out the cables are difficult to remove from the panel due to the plastic clip that is very difficult to remove. be carefull as they will break. i have been using a screw driver and pressing one leg of the clip from the back side (it has two legs with ledges on each that lock it in). you have to get the ledge shifted over and hope it stays put while prying the other side over. then you can push it up to release it. once the cables are free i squirt some light oil on the ends and work the cable in and out. clamping one end of the cable wire in a vise and twisting the plastic around the wire seems to work the best for freeing it up

xirdneh · Post by **xirdneh** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 8:35 am

I still haven't figured out how to remove that control panel. I removed some of the vent ducting and I was able to access the blower motor resistor and that's the problem why the motor only turns on two speeds. Pretty simple.[/quote]

exactly where is that blower resister and what does it look like?

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:54 pm

xirdneh wrote:exactly where is that blower resister and what does it look like?

Thanks for the explanation above xirdneh.

It's kind of hard to explain where it's at but when I replace it I'll do a write-up. If you shine a light in the area at the back of the control panel, slightly above you will see a connector. There is another connector but if you look at the pic below it'll be easier to locate. It's held in place by one screw.

Here's a picture:

Sounds like a HUGE PITA to remove the control panel. Any suggestions on how to repair the lever that about to break off? I imagine it might be easier to fix this one than going out and having to go through this twice.

waynehoc · Post by **waynehoc** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 7:52 pm

Here are a few pics of the unit I removed from my parts car ('86 2WD 4-door which has the same tranny and diff as my '87 2WD wagon). Might give you some idea of what you're up against, how things are connected, etc.

Top view from the front

Top view from the rear

Bottom view from the rear

tercel4wdrules · Post by **tercel4wdrules** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 9:48 pm

waynehoc:

Thanks for these pics and the other ones you provided of the head work. Yes, this looks exactly what I saw except it was very cramped in the area, I could barley fit my hand in there. If I remember correctly on my control panel the metal part of the levers weren't a copper color like these. Must be manufacturing variations. I'll post more on my progress as soon as I finish the other work.

toughtercel · Post by **toughtercel** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:38 am

yeah , especially replaceing light bulb for controll , it took me 5 sec to pop it out then took me almost 30 min to get that back in place , some other ask me where and how , i just show them but do it your self , keep my hand unstratch

hberdan · Post by **hberdan** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 4:16 pm

Is it possible to replace the light bulb without disconnecting all the cables? Will the panel come out just far enough to do this job without all the other work, or am I going to have to do the whole thing?

toughtercel · Post by **toughtercel** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:28 pm

well i tried look at controlers few cars replaceing tiny light bulb , then if i could try disconnect three cable but i figure might be harder to put them back AND it has to pre-adjust the cable lenght ,cause more time waste , so i decide lay on my back with sleeping bag till i got it in place .

hberdan · Post by **hberdan** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:57 pm

So, is that a "Yes" answer?

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:36 am

Replacing the Cool/Warm lever isn't easy- I had to do it on the wife's. I removed the control panel from the '83 (wrecked) along with the cables, and figured out how to remove the retainer to get the lever out before I started on the wife's driver. I couldn't get to the bulb without removing the whole panel though. The trick with the retainer (once you have it hanging by the cables) is to gently work your way around the fingers with a pair of small (electronics type) screwdrivers. Use one to apply a little upward force to the retainer by one finger, lightly disengage the finger from the plastic it's seated on. the retainer will move upward slightly, keep moving around it this way until its off. There are copper spring clips (as you can see in the photos that waynehoc posted-top view from the rear) These give you the positive detents for certain points.make sure that you get them back in correctly-a little dab of grease helps it slide. BTW the knobs come off with a right angle probe inserted from the back (panel side) at the top or bottom (I don't remember which) to disengage the clip.
OR you could cut the GD clip off with a pair of dikes and get a new one form the dealer(?) Its probably a $.55 item and will save ~ an hour.
JMH $0.55

toughtercel · Post by **toughtercel** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 10:30 pm

question to "hberdan " is YES i replace light bulb without taking controller out BUT i just remove screws to move the the controller outward just enough get my hand in the back , done them twice , best do it outside on nice sunny day to see better and size of my hand is meduim (short finger) like girl size , my wife's and daughter's have same size hand as my hand

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How to remove the instrument control panel?

How to remove the instrument control panel?

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Re: How to remove the instrument control panel?

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Re: How to remove the instrument control panel?