Sputters or dies after running a while.

[NWMO]

A little “smoke” wouldn’t bother me. Mine would sizzle/boil when poured in. I still think it sounds like fuel starvation

Chris

[Mogordo]

Thanks. I'm still not figuring it out. I won't be working on it this weekend but maybe by next.

[Paul]

You might have a couple issues to sort out... maybe fuel and ignition. Does it run OK when the engine is cold?
My first wagon had a similar problem that turned out to be ignition. It would run fine until warmed up, then sputter out and not restart until it cooled off. I swapped distributors and all was good, but maybe your 83 distributor is failing. I would check for spark again when it's hot and not starting.

[Mogordo]

It does have spark even when it's hot and not starting. But it is only stalling if it's been running a while. Distrubutor was my thought prior to swapping it and having the same issue with a diffferent disributor in it.

[Mogordo]

I want to take a look inside the fuel tank and from what I guess I just take out the five screws that were here (I'm including an image) and take the plate off. The plate feels pretty secure so I just want to find out if I am right that it should come off once the screws are out. Is that all that is fastening it? It may be rusty and a little stuck but I don't want to put too much pressure on it until I know if I am doing the correct thing.

[Nordical25]

This can be related to anything. Do you have an RPM gauge in your car? Does it move when it is hot and not starting?

Second question is, are the spark plugs wet when it is hot and not starting?

[Mogordo]

Hmm... Both good questions I don't know the answers to. I haven't messed with it running in weeks either so details aren't fresh in my mind. The last time I tried so I could check something my dad suggested I could not get it to quit running. There I was just wanting my car to stop running already and it just wouldn't. And it had been pretty reliable in dying up until then.
As far as the RPM gauge to you mean moves a lot or a little? I am thinking that it does not move when the car is done running because the engine isn't doing any revolutions. I don't know if I ever checked the spark plugs after it quit running so even if I did I'd have to again to know.

[Nordical25]

You will notice very small movement of RPM gauge if your ignition system works as planned. Therefore that is a very good gauge to monitor state of your ignition system. It if works well, then you will take a closer look of fuel system.

[Mogordo]

Thanks for that information.

[Paul]

My fuel tank pickup assembly was rusted bad, and I had to replace it. Before I found it in that condition, I thought I might clear out the supply line by applying compressed air up front by the fuel filter inlet. I was surprised to find the line held some pressure. The rust was so bad that the line was choked closed; probably combined with dirt from the tank. Applying low pressure air to the line by the fuel filter inlet should result in bubbling sound at the tank. That's what I heard once the blockage was taken care of.

[Mogordo]

Hi, Been a while since I checked in here. Whatever is going on I don't think it's a consistent blockage because of how long it ran after cleaning up the outside of the fuel pick-up, It turned out to be in fine shape overall minus layers of rust on the outside of the outer part of the lines. What was in the tank wasn't rusty. But after putting it back together and replacing a rusty section of line near the tank I drove it on trip that was about 35 miles total with no issue. Ran splendidly. Then I took it to get it oil-undercoated which was about a three hour drive one way. Ran well most of the way. A lot of highway but then about half of the drive involved roads with traffic lights an such. I made one stop about three miles from my destination and the car started up and ran fine. Then I made another stop about a mile and a half out and when I went to leave I was driving through a parking lot in first and it started sputtering. Fortunately for me there was a large open part of the lot right to my right so I revved the engine and accelerated into that part of the lot and the car got through the sputtering and went back to running fine. I told the car if it would get to the place and on and off the lift to get undercoated that would be really helpful since it was a long drive to get there, or something like that, and it did. No issues until I was back on the road heading home. Sputtered a few times but each time I had space in front of me to accelerate and get it out of the sputtering. I am grateful for that as there were a lot of lights and traffic for some of the trip so that it only sputtering when I had room in front of me was not at all something to take for granted. Anyway, I got it back home. Decided to do some gentle firewood hauling at my house with it. It made it a trip and a half before stalling (where I could roll it to where I planned to park, really helped out). I let it sit a week or so then when I had time to finish the firewood it started right up. I made the couple trips with the wood then parked the car back in the cellar. I want to wait until it isn't freezing cold outside to try and figure it out since I try not to run it in the cellar because it shares air with the rest of the house...

[Paul]

Could it be the EGR valve sticking? Maybe you could monitor the vacuum to the EGR with a gauge and see if there is a connection to the rough running condition... or maybe disconnect it temporarily. I know you have checked a lot on both fuel and ignition, and hope the issue is revealed so we can all learn from it.

[NWMO]

As shared previously, this continues to sound like a fuel “starvation” issue. As the engine runs and heats the carburetor, fuel will get hot enough to “boil” or vaporize from the bowl. When driving on the highway, the fuel pump and air movement keeps the issue at bay. However, when I would stop for fuel or a short time, my car would start/run ok, but sputter as I attempted to accelerate getting on the highway. If you can stay on the pedal and increase RPM, the fuel pump will fill the bowl and cool down. Slow speeds and or driving up steep hills can cause the car to stall as fuel delivery is reduced due to low RPM and if going uphill, fuel use is increased.

A good fuel pump is beneficial and you need to confirm good fuel flow into the carburetor bowl. There was originally a fine mesh screen at the rear of the carburetor fuel intake fitting. If it is dirty, it will slow fuel flow to the carburetor bowl.