want to include some pictures of my block and the decking I’ve been doing with a nice piece of marble and some 320 and 600 grit sandpaper
me and my friend who is helping me believe that the previous bad gasket was weeping and Causing corrosion in the factory machining marks on the block.
I’ve made quite many passes with the 320 and now 600 and I’m still seeing’s some of the pitting in the block but it does look much better. I’ve included pictures to get opinions on whether or not people think that this will create a decent enough seal as is, or if I should keep going.
Thanks!
Help!
Anybody????
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Sorry for not responding sooner. Looks great for smoothness to me. I would think most head gasket issues would be on the “head” side, as it would be more prone to warp, micro-crack, etc.
Chris
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It looks really good to me as well. I’ve never spent more than a few passes with a flat object and sandpaper, and never had one blow again, but I’ve also never decked a 3-A.
When I’ve done this on other motors we used small wadded up pieces of paper towel or TP in the water jackets, holes, and pistons to prevent debris from the sanding from getting into the engine. Then you simply take the shop vac and suck it all out carefully. Then we run the motor for a few minutes upon reassembly with old oil and immediately change it to break in oil. This also depends on whether you’ve replaced bearings, camshaft, and had rockers reground. In that case, with new engine components that will break in, it’s extra expensive as high zinc oil should be used on that initial startup, which draining and refilling doubles that amount and cost. Joe Gibbs BR30 is the most trusted breakin oil, for most people. But everyone has different ways of doing things and making it all work.
nice work there. minor pitting is not ever an issue. most important is that it flat. that is why you need to use a large flat stone to get it flat. Get a steel straight edge and check it with a feeler gauge, factory spec is that you can not slide a .003" feeler gauge under it when pressed against the deck. I like to go one better, and get it down to I can not get .002" under it, and check with the very thin .001" feeler gauge. it is especially critical between the cyclinders that it be flat with the rest of the surface, because that it where the gasket will fail.
you need to do the same with the head. follow my instructions in the head gasket threat.
but this looks like good work, nice even texture all the way across the deck surface.
