Turbo 4age tercel

[SirFoxx]

Wow! Again interesting mod work. This info may come handy to all who want to use 4A-FE as a start point for their engine builds.

Is 200mm flywheel possible to use also with Tercel 4wd? Or is it only suitable for your 1st gen Tercel gearbox?

if anyone wants to do a 4afe swap, just use the tercel flywheel since they are both 6 bolt.

4age's are a different story. i currently have my hands on 4 of the different "A" flyhweels -- 190mm tercel, 200mm 4afe, 200mm 4age, 212mm 4age.

the 200mm 4age flywheel will fit both fwd and 4wd tercel transmissions, assuming you do the required mods. You need to figure out if youre going to use an 8 bolt crank, or if youre going to convert an 8 bolt flywheel to 6. The 200mm flywheel also needs the starter ring from the 190mm moved over and set to the correct depth. This needs to be done on a lathe as the ring gears are different diameters and set to different depths.

the 212mm 4age flywheel will not fit unless you do some serious grinding and rewelding on the bellhousing. Larry mentioned this when he did his 20v 4age swap. Likewise, while the 200mm 4afe flywheel seems like the best choice for my swap, unfortunately it is more or less the same diameter as the 212mm flywheel.

[Nordical25]

It makes sense. I was just curious because Tercel 4wd has a small clutch according to some sources. So I was curious if larger diameter could be used.

[SirFoxx]

still waiting on the flywheel.

in the meantime, while the car has been sitting, not only did the clutch cable seize from getting too hot the last time i ran it, but also a brake line blew out. yay.

Replaced the cable with an ATP Y-488. its from an isuzu pickup / p'up. I had to cut the one bracket off, but while leaving the little square end on as a retainer for the clutch pedal since the factory cable end is flared. The extra length should keep it safe from heat.

Also picked up these awesome bucket seats from facebook. Theyre for offroad side by sides like the polaris RZR. These are Aces Racing Carbon Edition Daytona Seats. Had to make brackets for them, and weld the existing seat mounts to a spare set of seat rails I had laying around. Turned out pretty good I think. Even match the aesthetics of the old seats as well.

[Nordical25]

You have found some nice seats. Those bucket seats look sporty and give some side support if you are pushing G forces too hard.

You may need also an inclinometer or a G-meter if you have too succesful engine build!

[SirFoxx]

Man, still waiting on the flywheel. Not only is the shop still swamped, they just let go a few employees soooooo yea....not sure when ill be getting it. I did hear some of the work is done, but still needs the bolt pattern drilled and the ring gear land machined.

While being bored, I thought about maybe doing a bumper tuck to the turbo car. I had a spare set of rotted bumpers to play with, so I got to trimming.

It still needs trimming, and a new way to reattach the skin, but I think it has potential. Still need to mess with the front bumper as well. I was thinking about lining the skin with outdoor rated spay foam, then pushing the skin onto the metal bumper. The spray foam should be adequate enough to hold the skin to the metal frame.

[NWMO]

Since you’re working on cosmetics, I assume you’re taking it to CO for the Meet & Greet?

[SirFoxx]

Since you’re working on cosmetics, I assume you’re taking it to CO for the Meet & Greet?

as much as i would like to, probably not. even if i did bring it, i wouldnt be able to drive it anywhere, and the car still hasnt been tuned or proven yet. i dont want it to blow up while im out there.

im not sure what my plan is at the moment. i may bring the white 2dr again, or the red first gen, or jacob and i have been discussing bringing bikes out to ride with the group -- him on an enduro and me trail riding on my goldwing.

[NWMO]

As long as you guys are there on something, sounds good. Not imminent, but I’ve been researching the dual-sport bikes some. They look like a lit of fun.

Chris

[SirFoxx]

Finally. Flywheel is back and installed. The reason the machine shop took so long with it is cause I dropped it off right before they fired a long timer engineer, and the guy had like a 3 month back log of work the shop had to catch up on.

I also took it to a driveshaft shop to get it balanced. They gave it back with no new drill marks, so I'm assuming its still good, even after the modifications.

I followed the dimensions from fb user JayJay Idingo (hes on there, dont know his name though). Mine came out pretty similar to his. When they machine the flywheel down, it will expose the threads that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. I'm not really a big fan of that, but everybody says itll be fine. The same cut will also machine down the dowel pins that align the pressure plate on the flywheel. I made sure to soak all the bolts in red loctite to ensure they dont come loose.

I bought a heavy duty ACT clutch as they are one of the few companies that list the clamping force and torque figures for their clutches. The one I bought says its good for up to 286ish ftlbs.

I'm guess due to the slightly thicker pressure plate, I also had to massage two spots in the bellhousing. It probably would have self clearanced, but I didnt want to hear the screeching sounds while that took place.

JayJay also had to add a bearing spacer for the throwout bearing due to the flywheel being slightly shorter than the 3a setup, but my clutch cable allows for such adjustments, and as it stands, i think it will be good. The 2nd gen throwout bearing collar is also slightly longer than the 1st gens, and when i added the bearing spacer, the throwout bearing was barely on the collar. Didnt feel too great about that.

Testing will continue saturday.

[dlb]

I followed the dimensions from fb user JayJay Idingo (hes on there, dont know his name though).

Funny you mention that because I randomly thought about this a few days ago and wonder if he is JDNightFox on here. JDNightFox used to have a profile pic that looked like JayJay Idingo's dog mask thing.

[SirFoxx]

I followed the dimensions from fb user JayJay Idingo (hes on there, dont know his name though).

Funny you mention that because I randomly thought about this a few days ago and wonder if he is JDNightFox on here. JDNightFox used to have a profile pic that looked like JayJay Idingo's dog mask thing.

yea thats him. his latest post was looking for body panels to fix his. I sold him my 7age wagon for $500 to fix his since hes in St louis and im in Kansas city, i was never really attached to that wagon, it also kept having issues with the brakes, and the 7age is quite tired. The body shop basically removed the whole front and and cut out the rear quarter, so the body is shot on mine. When hes back in town hes going to bring me the carcass back so I can pull my drivetrain out of it. Long term plan is to scrap the wagon body, and build a 4wd 2dr hatch (its been done, only a few major hurdles need to be jumped over for the fwd -> 4wd swap)

[Nordical25]

4wd 2dr hatch would be awesome. It is really agile. AL20 & AL10 4wd have been used in car orienteering: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_orienteering

They are light and agile, so perfect for snowy/gravel back roads.

[SirFoxx]

update:

been trying so hard to get the car tuned. Initially i was having really bad issues with sharp lean AFR spikes as soon as boost rolled in, then it turned to the engine randomly losing fuel pressure while casually driving. Pumps are called pumps for a reason not Sucks...I was trying to pull fuel through the carb style sending unit with the pump, and even though i had modified the lines to be 3/8", the pump couldnt get a satisfactory stream going. Soooo I tried using a lift pump to feed the main pressure pump. The lift pump i had was a carter rotary vane style pump, which apparently make great lift pumps. Initially it drove really well for several blocks, then it started cutting out really bad again. great....

seeing as the lift pump did ~190lph, and the main walbro pump did 255lph, i thought the mismatch was causing issues even though i wasnt anywhere near the 255lph limit of the pump. did some research and the next easiest, cheapest option was to get a diesel truck style aftermarket sump. All you do is drill a hole in the tank, feed in the plate, and screw it together. The hole saw i got wasnt rated for metal i guess...so i ended up using a jigsaw with a wood blade. got it together aaaaaaaaaaand....same issue. WTF...The only variable left is the fuel pressure regulator. At idle the pressure is surging, which it shouldnt be doing unless there was a contant voltage drop to the pump, which there isnt. After the colorado meet n greet trip I will be replacing the regulator to hopefully fix the issue...

https://youtube.com/shorts/b1FMUZlkQiM? ... EFPZ1vJkkz

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[NWMO]

Thanks for the update, I’m sure you’ll work through the issues after Colorado. Travel safely, see you on Thursday, the Rusty Frog is ready to go (still need to load it though).

[SirFoxx]

Welp, figured it out. After replacing the pump once again with a carquest pump meant for a ford bronco II, that didnt solve it. Upgrading the FPR to the aeromotive one i got from a friend also didnt solve it. It was still fuel starving. Looking at the fuel system, that only left the stretch of line between the sump I installed and the pump. The only thing there is the pre-pump fuel filter.

With aftermarket efi systems, they give you two filters -- pre and post filter pump. the micron ratings usually vary from one manufacturer to the other. with my kit i got a 10 micron and 100 micron. the fuel lines were one of the first things i installed, and I dont know how, but i got the pre and post pump filter positions reversed. I removed the filters and swapped them, and walllah. no more fuel starvation!

it still stutters and misfires a bit, but its a rocket. with the coilovers its super stiff and harsh, but for autox thatll be fine.

I had to service one of my coilovers as the gland nut needed to be tightened, and while i was in there I installed my strut bar.

I'll get a 0-60 video soon!

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