Mounting Motor Mounts

[ARCHINSTL]

Well, I have the 2 front mounts and the rear transmission mount. The three are OEM from Butler Toyota in Indy, cost $161, and were literally just a few bucks more than aftermarket from AZ or Advance - actually less than from one of those vendors.
The rear looks like a pretty straightforward procedure (although no torque specs in the FSM for any of the 9 fasteners save the 2 for the cross member itself...).

The front is more involved, at least for me, as I have no engine hoist. Could the following procedure work/have any of you used this procedure (after necessary component removal):
1. Remove the top and bottom mounting nuts.
2. Jack the engine high enough (2" or so) to pull out the mounts. I realize I would have to watch the back of the engine to avoid contact with the firewall etc.
3. Should I place the jacks under the two solid side mounting brackets bolted to the block, or a single jack under the pan (sump), with a board and padding between the jack and the pan?
4. Should I leave the original trans mount in place during this and/or loosen the fasteners of this mount or ?

Thanks for the advice. I will eventually do a writeup, as others must be in a similar situation.
Tom M.

[Mickey_D]

Never actually done it on a Tercel 4WD, but have done it on plenty of RWD cars.

And your listed procedure is pretty much exactly what I did.

As far as jack placement, I can't really comment having not done it on this engine, but normally a good sized hunk of 2X6 under the sump works quite well. As flimsy as the oil pan is, they are remarkably good at supporting the engine all by themselves. I mean, that's what they sit on in the wrecking yards when they remove an engine for sale......

[Gasoline Fumes]

I agree, a jack and a piece of wood should be fine. You can probably leave the trans mount in place, it should have enough flex to let you lift the engine.

[xirdneh]

I agree, a jack and a piece of wood should be fine. You can probably leave the trans mount in place, it should have enough flex to let you lift the engine.

the little shock absorber on the front (right side) of engine may restrict how high you can raise engine. i'd keep an eye on it. the only other thing that might be stressed a bit is the exhaust pipe. the oil pans are pretty stout. i have several engines sitting on a concrete floor and they get moved around now and then (dragged, lifted and dropped) and the pans are none the worse for it. setting up the jack on the lowest part of the pan should be fine.
i am wondering why you are replacing the front mounts?
have you determined they are bad?

[ARCHINSTL]

Thanks to all for the answers.
I thought the pan would be sturdy enough - and this is the easier method.
The exhaust manifold and the little shock would be among the components previously mentioned for detachment.

I have been getting "clunking" on deceleration from speed, and while I realize this may well be the CV joints (although they are not "clicking etc.), the left mount is really spongy from aeons of oil soaking and appears somewhat diminished in thickness (?). This replacement of all should help this situation at least somewhat - and they are 20 years old...

The little side shock/damper itself should be interesting - takza mentioned at one time about replacing it with a threaded rod and rubber spacers and 3A-C Power mentioned about looking at an industrial supply house. Butler Toyota advised that all of the warehouses are o/s, and most, if not all, dealers are bereft as well. So - I'll do some checking for that item.
Tom M.

[xirdneh]

The little side shock/damper itself should be interesting

i wonder if that little shock absorber is really needed. i've driven some tercels that had non functioning absorbers and did not notice any thing different.
also have looked at quite a few front motor mounts and have only seen one that was no good. it was not oiled up but basically dry and the rubber had seperated from the metal. have seen many oily ones (mostly from the driver side) cleaned them up and reused them. so far so good.