Stabilizer bar Brackets are hanging free

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:17 pm

So the bracket you see there is hanging loose by a free swaying bolt and a missing bolt. This is basically what is happening on both sides of my car.

The bolts as I can figure it attach to the frame support by a welded nut on the top/inside of the support and the nuts are no longer welded to the support.

So first off is there a shade tree solution to this?
Second if I can find a salvage support is the engine resting on it? What kind of negative things might be involved with removing the support and putting a new support in place?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I will try and get an actual photo for those of us who are visually oriented.

takza · Post by **takza** » Sat Jan 14, 2006 7:03 am

DON'T DRIVE IT! Wheels will fold under the car...the world as you know it will end.

Those are square nuts made of soft steel...they can strip pretty easy. I had to retap one of mine for the next size up metric bolt.

The nut isn't welded in...I don't think...just located by a steel holder...might still be useable...I'd find 4 new grade 8 bolts though and try rebolting it together.

Might have a case of vandalism.

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I was going to cut an access hole.... front or back...and weld another nut in there. I'd do it that way...make sure either the old nuts have threads and are welded in place...or you tack in new ones.

Then after you are sure the bar will snug down good...patch wire weld in some sheetmetal to patch the access holes.

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:42 am

Thanks I will post another picture tomorrow after I take the camera over there. One one bolt for sure I have a strip problem on another bolt the bolt will not come out it is still attached to something yet it can be pushed in.

I am not a welder so I am out of luck on the second item.

I will keep looking. Thanks

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:55 am

Where is a good place for bolts. I have looked on line at Lowes and Autozone but not sure if they carry it and do not have it online. Any Ideas?

Fingers · Post by **Fingers** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:20 pm

I had a similar problem with crossmember bolts in my old Camry, I did exactly as Takza said, cut a access hole, just big enough to fit a wrench into, then just threw some new bolts in, held them with the wrench, and tightened 'em down. They are held by a little boxed in bit of metal, and it tends to bend pretty easilly. After I was done, I just made a rubber plug and crammed it in there with some silicone. It held until the car died with no problems.

And as far as bolts go, you can get em just about anywhere. I picked some up at Home Depot, just make sure you get a high strength bolt and you should be fine.

Fingers

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:11 am

Fingers wrote: cut a access hole, just big enough to fit a wrench into, then just threw some new bolts in, held them with the wrench, and tightened 'em down. They are held by a little boxed in bit of metal, and it tends to bend pretty easilly.

If the hole was big enough for a small cold shisel...you could use that to knock the old nuts and "holder" out of the way. Use a small boxend to put the new ones in and hold them.

The bar can be a pain to line up though.

Best place around here for bolts are the local farm stores...just buy the best grade they have...need to be a good quality bolt.

I can buy SAE fasteners by the pound....forget the hardware store.

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:10 am

OK so I can not weld but I might find someone to do it .......But I can drill or even get access to a cutting wheel but I fear that the stell will be to thick.

Can you guys give me an idea as to how thick the steel is?

takza · Post by **takza** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:32 pm

It's not all that heavy...you can find an edge to see...it's heavy sheetmetal.

You don't really need to weld...just cut a 3/4" x 1" hole or so in the front and chisel the old nuts loose?

Buy a length of 1/2" x 1/4 thick steel and drill and tap 2 holes spaced just right...easier to hold???

Don't mess with the lower surface though.

Won't be easy. I didn't like the looks of it...but what choice do you have? Just think ahead and get started...don't do anything you can't back out of.

Just ideas...you have to do the work....

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:23 am

i just drilled through and put some long ass bolts,, higer quality ss. works great

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:59 am

So you drillined through the existing holes and put in longer bolts?

SS= stainless steel right? What about SAE 8 bolts as tazka reccomended

That sounds a bit more like it if I am understanding you correctly.

Also I am glad to hear that I am truly not alone on this.

takza · Post by **takza** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:21 am

Didn't think of drilling completely thru the crossframe...but use the next size up bolt due to greater length...high grade bolts only...SAE easiest to find in US....don't collapse the frame though...might work???

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:18 pm

Shogun

I went and took a gander at the bolts and the cross beam and the drilling through looks like a easy task for the front bolts than the back bolts.

How long were the bolts you used? Approx?

dug320 · Post by **dug320** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:55 am

I went through a similar experience.

After stripping that nut.

I posted in this forum my experiences.

Basically, I ended up going to the wrecking yard and getting a used cross member. I paid 60 bucks for the cross member and it took 2 hours to replace.

Best 60 bucks worth of part.

Ogedei · Post by **Ogedei** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:52 pm

So I did it.

First a pneumatic cutting wheel was superb for the job.
I just cut holes for the wrench to fit through. I cut in from the back and could tighten both bolts through this one hole.
Be careful on the front bolt to not use a very long bolt as there is not a lot of clearance.

Cost 3 dollars for the lift bay, 4 dollars for the bolts and 3 dollars for the radial tire patch I placed over the hole to keep the wet out.

Not bad Not bad at all, the only thing that would have made it easier would have been a lift that left the wheels free then I would not have had to contort so much to use the cutting wheel.

Post by **ARCHINSTL** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 3:38 pm

Ogedei -
Thanks for the explanation - any pix?
If not, could you post in the Repair Guides then maybe a "line drawing" schematic using just lines to show the affected area and your procedure?
Apparently several others have faced this situation and it may help others later on.
Tom M.