Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Fri May 17, 2019 7:26 pm

yes that is where i am hitting it. not working, on both sides
with a pry bar now too

so i managed to acquire some funds for some 3 way jaw pullers and a pry bar.
IMAG0938[1].jpg
that ball joint puller looked way to big to fit....but even with the slimmer jaw puller i have to get the rotor and it's cover out of the way.

the rotor is not budging either. yes i tapped it on/around the inner section to try and free it

anyone know what size the tap out holes are threaded at off hand? would think there would be bolts i could borrow from another area of the car.
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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Fri May 17, 2019 7:40 pm

my pry bar & hammer
IMAG0939[1].jpg
hasn't moved the slightest

with the rotor not budging to i'm on a roll...as well as running out of time to get this done
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dlb
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by dlb » Fri May 17, 2019 8:28 pm

Petros wrote:
Fri May 17, 2019 7:18 pm
most pullers or "pickle fork" tool will damage the boot
Not true. Pullers shouldn't damage a boot (unless it's being used incorrectly) because the arms hook onto the casting while the bolt cinches down on the stud until the stud pops out. There shouldn't be any contact between the puller and the boot.

That hammer looks small to me. Mine is a small sledge, maybe 5 lbs, and I use it with gusto. Same with the rotors. You have the right technique, you probably just need a bigger hammer and more force.

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rer233
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by rer233 » Fri May 17, 2019 9:23 pm

Threaded holes in the rotors are 8x 1.25 mm.
if it aint there, there's a good chance it won't break!
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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Fri May 17, 2019 10:35 pm

i got a side off... the pry bar and smack method.
took a bit though. was nervous about breaking things.
maybe just had to wait out the penetrant

hopefully similar results on the other side

i guess i'll save figuring out the rotor for later now
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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Fri May 17, 2019 11:22 pm

seems i spoke to soon... lower section of the knuckle won't separate from the main ball joint after removing the two 14mm's

doing the whole pry-bar on the sway bar prying from the frame up by where the control arm connects thing in roberts video to pull the control arm down and away from the wheel assembly

not moving.... i'm having such a great couple days here
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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Sat May 18, 2019 12:10 am

after enough banging on things...a chisel wedge was involved even... the control arm separated.
removed the axle, and things seemed to be starting to go good...right until i went to install the new axle

won't go in...more banging right?
maybe it's just a stiff c-ring

upon removing it to inspect discovered the inner cv lacks it's inner lock ring. it pulled completely apart inside the boot.....wtf.
this is becoming some sort of manufacture norm. went through 2 axles like this through O'Reilly's helping a friend with his honda crv.
2 brand new axles in a row without inner cv lock rings before going with a different brand.

i definitely don't have time for this. RockAuto....why.....this is why ordering online blows. you never know what you're going to get
and it's the sort of thing easily discovered if it was actually inspected ..... soooo pissed right now
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by dlb » Sat May 18, 2019 1:59 am

Only buy completely new CV axles. The reman ones are often junk right out of the box. Several members here have installed them only to have clunking and clicking right away. I don't remember running into axles missing their C-rings but it sounds like just another reason to avoid reman axles.

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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Sat May 18, 2019 12:41 pm

these where brand new cardone's from rockauto.com... the ones for the crv where brand new from O'Reilly's
Capture.PNG
both sides are missing there inner lock rings too..and road trip for my next gig on thurs starts wed...
so they're getting returned...and i will likely be forced to get duralast due to the addressing issue of not having one.

p.s. both of them also lacked any deburing honing to insure a proper fit.....remember, also wouldn't go in. just like the brand new axle in Roberts tut video
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Petros
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by Petros » Sun May 19, 2019 3:09 pm

other form members have had issues with new Cardone axles, to quote Synth "I am done with Cardone!"

as far as getting the tie rod ends release, you are not striking it hard enough, you need a bigger hammer. it is interesting to note when I had one ton ford truck, the factory service manual said to use a 10 lb sledge hammer to get the large ball joint taper to release. It is a standard industry practice.

If you are ordering remans through your local auto parts store, if they will allow it, have them order two of each. when they arrive, before you take them out of the store, open the box and rotate the cv joints by hand, it should be smooth with no grinding, clunks or clicks. check for rotational play in the joint at zero angle (there be none), if everything else looks good (splines, boots, clips, etc) it is likely all good.
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SinusoidalTendencies
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by SinusoidalTendencies » Mon May 20, 2019 1:07 am

sooo... after some research i am humbled to learn that most cv axles don't have an inner lock ring inside the inner cv joint like i have experienced on some (maybe better quality ones).
anyways...completely lacking the time to exchange the axles through the mail and being stubborn as i am i decide to hone down the splines to fit in the spider gear, using a $3 needle file set i had from harbor freight.
IMAG0941[1].jpg
this took forever and i wouldn't recommend it. i must have put it in and pried it back out of the diff a half dozen times. so much blood, sweat & tears.

i was afraid of taking to much off to quickly. but the splines took off more of the cheap file than the file took off the spines.
scrapped off is more like it. using the corners of the flat ones. i got it pretty close that way. but it was taking to long.

so i broke down and begged for the cash to get a little conicle shaped diamond dremel bit for this dremel with a flex shaft that was laying around my friends garage. i was still nervouse about taking too much off to fast. but was misplaced as the diamond bit could only cut at a polishing/deburing rate like a super fine sander.
IMAG0946[1].jpg
one go and i got her in all the way. was still tight though so i took it back out. (needed to anyways to put the c-clip on) and gave it another go over with the diamond bit. made sure to use some oil on it of course to lubricate the cutting. and it's clipped and ready to go back in...


which brings us to my next question...
what is this thing on top of my front diff..
i think i might of bumped it. is it supposed to jiggle around like that? is it a vent of some sort?
IMAG0942[1].jpg
(yes i know it's filthy, & i should of washed it before all this)
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marlinh
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Re: Situation...steering link ball joint stuck

Post by marlinh » Mon Jun 17, 2019 12:37 pm

Yes, it is a vent.

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