splatterdog wrote: Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:05 pm
One way to judge wheel bearings is to hold on to the coil spring while rotating the tire. The spring amplifies any roughness in the bearing. I always use a stethoscope on the not completely obvious ones. What you hear from the drivers seat doesn't always end up where you thought it was. Had one that I thought for sure was the LF during the test drive, but it was RR.
Well, the one I changed was definitely bad, you could shake the wheel from top to bottom.
sensor may be on its way out. Better fix what ever the problem, you will compromise the head gasket if you do not keep the temp down, even if it never gets into the red on the gage. y
It sensor could be good but blocked with deposits. You might pull out the sensor and see if it is plugged up with deposits, if so flush out the radiator good. you can test the sensor in a pot of water on the stove, you will need a thermometer to make sure it opens at the correct temp.
Petros wrote: Thu Jul 19, 2018 7:09 pm
sensor may be on its way out. Better fix what ever the problem, you will compromise the head gasket if you do not keep the temp down, even if it never gets into the red on the gage. y
It sensor could be good but blocked with deposits. You might pull out the sensor and see if it is plugged up with deposits, if so flush out the radiator good. you can test the sensor in a pot of water on the stove, you will need a thermometer to make sure it opens at the correct temp.
Luckily the car keeps the heat down amazingly well, even without the fan ever coming on. The new water pump and thermostat help with that immensely. I did flush the rad when I changed the water pump, it was out of the car anyways. Is the fan switch like the thermostat in the sense that it's operation is actuated by special wax? I don't know how I would tell if it is working visually if I tested it on the stove as you suggested.
look in the service manual for the procure (there is one available for free down load else where on this site).
you have to put a olm meter on the contacts, you watch your temp slowly go up and note when the contact goes from open to closed. I suppose you can improvise with a light bulb and a battery. the light should be off until you meet the correct temperature.
Includes: 15 inch aluminum rims from a 2002 civic, sr5 dash, 4wd logo mudflaps (only the back ones x4) a spare ball joint, and a brand new fuel sender.
LowBuckCanuck wrote: Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:43 pm
Includes: 15 inch aluminum rims from a 2002 civic, sr5 dash, 4wd logo mudflaps (only the back ones x4) a spare ball joint, and a brand new fuel sender.
Actually the mudflats are 2 left rears, 1 right rear, and 1 left front.
Adjusted the odometer on the new dash to 182000 km so it matches the kilometres of my car. (a bit scary how easy it is to do) Popped that sucker in last night and now I have a beautiful working tachometer and digital clock. I notice the design of the fuel and temp gauges lend themselves to be a lot more accurate. The new dash also has orange backlighting, my old one was green. I'm really happy with this modification.
