Zach's 1985 4WD Tercel Wagon

[Petros]

a small amount of seepage from freeze plugs is not unusual, some simple stop leak in with the coolant solves that problem (it will not harm a thing, and a lot easier than replacing a plug). I was taught to put a bead of sealant around the edge of the freeze plug when you install it, never had a leak problem.

There is a valve spring tester tool, it is a small press with a scale on it, but you can also use a bathroom scale and a drill press. To test your springs with a drill press, install either a very large bolt or a valve in the chuck (large enough to press evenly on the valve spring), put the scale on the work surface, and adjust the height so when you are all the way down with the drill head, it is the "installed height" specific in the FSM. This is not so critical if you are just comparing them, the key is that you compress each one the exact same amount. The FSM gives a specific amount for the spring force at the installed height (also called "valve seat pressure"). than you put each spring in the drill press one at a time and compress them the same amount, reading and writing down the force on the scale for each one. Usually Toyota springs are pretty good and hold their strength (unless badly overheated). They should all be within a few pounds of each other, typically if you have a bad one it will be way off, 20 percent or more.

I had several engines worth of springs and picked out the best (strongest) eight testing this way. If you can use a good digital scale you will do it as accurately as any auto machine shop can do, if not better.

the higher the seat pressure the less risk of valve float at high rpms, a weak spring indicates an internal flaw (likely a crack developing), which could result in spring failure. Toyota uses high quality materials so it is not common to find a bad one. If the engine was badly overheated in the past (usually means the head has to be rebuilt) all of them will be low. It is not that critical they all be exactly the same, all that means is the valve will all float at the same high (over reved) rpm at the same time (IOW, not really a issue). It is only important to find a very weak one to get it out of the group. I usually do this when I am doing a major overhaul, or suspect (or know) the engine was badly overheated. On a Toyota (and most Japanese major brands) I rarely do it on a routine head gasket replacement or valve seal replacement. On a ford or chevy, it should be done anytime you have to pull the head out, and likely you will find at least one bad one, if not more.

[lannvouivre]

Just need to seat intake valves and modify the head gasket, and install the timing belt and stuff...then it's ready to go back in.

I still need to install the new clutch kit and get the flywheel resurfaced. It looks like it got contaminated with oil and grease. I'm thinking of installing the transmission first. Not sure how I will get it in by myself.

I think I'll leave the springs be, since there's no evidence of overheating...just low oil.

[ARCHINSTL]

That is just - beautiful...
Tom M.

[Petros]

I have put in a trans by myself, use two scissor jacks and some blocks of wood. the hard part is getting them up on the jacks (lift one end at a time, using a stick as leverage). than work both jacks back and fourth, balancing them with one hand and raising with the other. hydraulic floor jacks work too, but the scissor jacks (particuiarly with a cordless drill on them) works well. lubricate the screw on the jacks so they are easy to turn. once you get the rear cross member in place, raising and positioning the front (heavy part) is much easier. you have to keep a jack under the front of the trans to keep it high, and you can adjust the height up or down to assist in aligning the input shaft with the clutch pilot bearing.

I think it is actually easier to put the trans in first, and than install the engine. you can also wait to install the head and related accessories after you have the short block installed, it is much lighter and easier to move it around as you lower the engine on to the mounts and the trans input shaft.

[lannvouivre]

Thanks, Tom!

I have 0 scissor jacks.

Yet, I have two hydraulic jacks (one is a baby, the other is lo-pro.) Last time I did a transmission, it was a transaxle and I used just the floor jack and an extra pair of hands. I didn't think to use a stick; I was just going to get some more hands. Preferably some hands that don't get upset over getting dirty, or hands that get flabbergasted about not knowing what to do. Right now the transmission is on a pair of rolling furniture movers, and I think the lo-pro can get under them. I think I could even put the engine on the hoist, bolt it to the transmission, lift both, and then lower the trans onto the jacks and unbolt them. Regardless, at least a torque converter won't be involved cuz I hate seating those. I still have yet to clean the inside of the bell housing, which is full of oil spray for some reason. I don't want the clutch to get contaminated.

We did get a speedy sleeve on the "butt" of the crankshaft despite the stand being in the way, so there's that.

[Gottolovem]

I use a ratchet strap through the shifter hole and around the tail shaft to help pull it into place.
It works great to hold one end of the tranny in place.
You can slowley ratchet the tail up into place without having to muscle the entire thing all at once.

IT WORKS GREAT!
You have to do a little fiddling that is way better than trying to be Lou Ferrigno

I have done a bunch of t4 tranny swaps and for me it works better than my real tranny jack "trolly"

[lannvouivre]

I got the intake valves seated, and now just need to install the springs and headgasket.

[lannvouivre]

Now I just need to clean the bell housing of the transmission, maybe get a seal for the input shaft (still don't know where the oil inside it came from. Is it engine oil, or transmission oil?), get the flywheel resurfaced, and replace some missing bolts. Then it's time to pop her back in.

[lannvouivre]

The transmission will go in tomorrow, y'all, unless things don't go according to plan.*

I still need to check and set valve clearances like a boss. But that's it, besides oil.

*LOL GOOD LUCK ME

[fffutr]

New here. Just wanted to say that the wagon looks awesome in white! That's my next respray right there =)

[lannvouivre]

Transmission is in and we're still in need of resurfacing the flywheel, pressing out the clutch release bearing, replacing the pilot bearing, and a few other little pieces.

[lannvouivre]

I got the new crank pulley bolt tightened on it a bit, kinda considering pulling the timing covers, smoothing them, and painting them black for a prettier finish. Suspect sanding them and polishing them may be sufficient to make them look clean.

Also painted the intake manifold and pulleys, plus got things to turn into an EGR and fuel pump block-off.

[lannvouivre]

Installed the flywheel and EXEDY clutch today.

Here are new images:

1ZZ crank pulley bolt looking all OEM on a 3A-C. NOTE: The ZZ family was preceded by the A engine family and is based a bit on the A family.


EXEDY makes a lot of clutches and such for Toyota.


Unintentionally a very patriotic color scheme.

[Petros]

the block could use some red strips! looks great.

I found cleaning off the nuts and bolts good usually renews their appearance. the few large ones can be painted if they have noticeable corrosion.

[lannvouivre]

On the other engine I soaked ugly bolts in acetone. I may try putting the hex ends under a wire wheel. Wish I could just clean and paint them, but paint is usually too delicate for that kinda thing.