Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

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dlb
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by dlb »

i haven't noticed but i'll drive by and take a look. i know one employee there had an old 4wd subaru loyale so maybe he's left the dark side to join us.
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irowiki
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by irowiki »

marlinh wrote:If you don't have air tools, invest in an electric impact wrench. Save you lots of headache and you will use it everywhere. Make your life so much easier.

Amen to that, we bought one to get a 180 foot pound pulley bolt off of a 3VZ and it worked first try!
Former Tercel Enthusiast (not a practical family car anymore but they still have a place in my heart)

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87 Corolla FX16, 105k
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dlb
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by dlb »

in case you're interested in an electric impact wrench mark, i bought the last generation version of this 7.5A mastercraft one:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maste ... P6EzCiM67E

and it's worked great for me. i got it on sale for $70 or something. but if i were to do it again, i would get the 8A one:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maxim ... P6E8yiM67E

not that i have ever needed more power but just in case.
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Mark
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by Mark »

dlb wrote:i haven't noticed but i'll drive by and take a look. i know one employee there had an old 4wd subaru loyale so maybe he's left the dark side to join us.
I meant Maxwells, not Mitchells. It was one of those M-ll places, but you knew what I meant.
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dlb
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by dlb »

haha, yeah i figured it out. no worries, you dyslexic weirdo.
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by marlinh »

Impact tools make any job a breeze, even changing tires. Can't imagine not using them.
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Mark
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by Mark »

I just replaced the oil pressure sender. I got it locally ($8. Beck Arnely brand or however you spell it). Now there's no more oil leaking, but when the oil pressure is lowest (idling in Drive when the oil's warm), the oil light flickers on and off. As soon as I lightly press the gas pedal or put in in Neutral to raise the RPMs a bit, the light goes out. Are poorly-calibrated pressure switches (I assume it's a simple on/off switch) a common issue with aftermarket oil senders? Or would I actually have a low oil pressure problem (the old switch didn't indicate a low pressure). I know the only way to find out is check it with a gauge, but I was hoping for easier reassurance.
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dlb
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by dlb »

sorry mark, a gauge is the only way to know for sure. you can borrow mine if you want. i also have the obscure adapter needed to make it work (it took a while before i learned that toyota used a british standard pipe thread and not the usual NPT or whatever it us over here).
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dlb
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by dlb »

i just drove by maxwell's and saw that terc you mentioned. at first i thought it looked like c'_j's but i don't think it was (he works in sooke and still has his car as of a few weeks ago). i didn't need to stop but the next time i go to maxwell's for some parts, i'll inquire.

incidentally, butch runs maxwell's. he's the father of an old friend of mine. incredibly nice guy, actually all of the staff there is. so refreshing from a lot of the smug "it's gonna cost ya" types i find at some wreckers.
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Mark
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by Mark »

I bought another sender from another place today (Lordco). It's the same brand (Beck Arnley), but cost twice as much even with my 40% discount. I installed it and there's no flickering oil light at idle anymore. I noticed that the flat connector tab on the previous new one that flickered was half the length as the one from Lordco. It looked like it was pushed in. I wiggled it and it popped out to its full length. The connector tab seemed to be spring-loaded. I could push it in and it would pop back out. The newest one didn't do that. Anyway, I guess the flickering oil light was just a faulty sender new out of the box.
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by marlinh »

This week Canadian Tire has their Mastercraft electric impact on sale for $50.
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4wdEconoBox
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by 4wdEconoBox »

Where exactly is the oil pressure sender at? I replaced the front seals, and valve cover gasket but I'm still losing a good amount of oil and I want to check it out to see where its leaking from, seems like its from somewhere under or around the timing cover maybe... I've also got the oil pan gasket and distributor o-ring that I plan on replacing this weekend, any advice would be helpful!!
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marlinh
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by marlinh »

The oil pressure sender is on the drivers side of the block below the alternator. You will see a single wire going to it. When you replaced the front seals did you examine the sealing surface on the crankshaft and camshaft to make sure they weren't grooved? Otherwise the new seals would leak too.

I would hold off on doing the oil pan gasket until you have determined where the leak is coming from. It is not that easy to do with the engine installed and if it is factory, it is sealed like cement. There are some write ups about it.
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by Petros »

Not very likely it is the oil pan gasket, many get fooled because it is running down the engine from somewhere else, and runs around the oil pan lip making it look like it is coming from the oil pan gasket. They almost never leak unless they were installed improperly, it will not just start leaking on its own.

The most common leaks are front cam and crank seal, rear main seal, valve cover gasket, the distributor o-ring, the oil pressure sender and the fuel pump gasket. all but the rear main are reasonably easy to get to and fix (fortunately the rear main seal is very reliable). Notice the oil pan gasket does not make the list. It can be changed without pulling the engine, I have done it when I went in to replace the oil pump and connecting rod bearings, but it is are real PIA to get it off and back on again. That is the last place I would look for a leak.

soak the engine in degreaser or warm detergent water and than pressure wash it good, than check it every day for fresh oil source. If your front seals are good, next thing I would look to are the distributor o-ring and the valve cover gasket. The oil sender you have to remove the alternator to get too, not too bad a job, but you can usually tell if it is the source of oil by inspection.

good luck!
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dlb
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Re: Asking for trouble (crankshaft pulley removal)

Post by dlb »

atoyta wrote: Fri Mar 06, 2015 7:46 pm I have always used a 1/2" breaker bar against the frame & utilized the starter to crank it loose.
Today I started on replacing the cam and crank seals, and timing belt on my latest Tercel. I got stuck at removing the crank pulley bolt, even with my impact gun it didn't budge. I looked up xirdneh's video on this and he used a tool he made just for this job. I was going to go that route too but just saw the above post, and wonder if anyone else has gone this route. Seems like the easiest method, just wondering why more people haven't mentioned it here.
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