Weber woes.

[BaileySims]

Alright guys. I have a small problem. I have the Weber 32/36 on my tercel. I haven't put more than ten miles on the car because of this problem. I called 7 local carb places and no one deals with Weber. I don't know much about carbs but I believe its the accelerator pump arm and the little cam thing it spins/pushes on. It works fine if i accelerate slowly but at WOT the carb gets stuck on the accelerator pump arm and the cam. I'll post some pictures and hopefully someone here will have some insight on what I can do to fix the issue. Posted below are the pictures of arm and the cam. Tell me this isn't normal or where I can go to fix this issue. Thanks.

Here is the arm.

And the cam.

[dlb]

can you make those pics smaller? i think a large part of them is cut off and making it hard to tell what i'm looking at.

did you just install the weber, and was it brand new?

[irowiki]

Try right click and open in new tab depending on what browser you use. Or copy URL and go to a new tab.

[Petros]

I have dinked around with several webers in the past, including tweaking/tuning one for better performance. I am not sure what the problem is with that linkage, it looks normal. though it does look rather worn but I do not think that would cause it to hang up. these carbs are very reliable and usually not prone to this kind of problem.

If I understand you correctly, if you push on the throttle too hard it stays stuck open?!?! sounds really dangerous. I can not imagine what would cause it to stay open if indeed the issue. Check your throttle cable is not sticking, and the linkage under the dash (on the fire wall inside the passanger compartment under the dash). Also, check that the throttle plate returns without binding or sticking to idle position, and see if you can find out what is hanging up. What makes you think it is the accelerator pump?

Also, spray carb cleaner down the throat of the carb, there might be a lot of deposits around the throttle plate causing it to stick open. lubricate all of the linkage, see if there is anything else wrong or hanging up somewhere.

Please describe in more detail exactly what is happening, how does the car behave, when does it happen, and post more pictures of your installation. has it always done this, or did it just start recently, or has this carb done this since it was installed? We need more information I think to be able to help you.

[ARCHINSTL]

The only prob I encountered with my Weber in just over 4 years was this year.
I was getting some reluctance to "idle down" when coming to a halt; mind, it did not race, but stayed at 1200 or so RPM instead of dropping to the usual 800 +/-.
Solution(s):
1. Sprayed carb cleaner around the throttle shaft on both sides of the carb.
Then
2. Relocated the pull-off spring so it pulled more directly.
Then
3. Since there was a slight leak around the shaft, I determined that there was wear on the shaft from me having the original spring location too crooked, causing wear on the plastic bushings supporting the shaft, thus permitting a leak.
Then
4. I installed the Weber bearing mod. No more probs.

See https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ilit=weber
See also last photo here: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ber#p78642

I would try the fixes in the order above - and also check the cable tension and lube the cable as well.
Tom M.

[Mogordo]

Hey everyone, Does anyone have an idea why the throttle will stick when the car is running but not when it it is off? It's to a Weber. The idle tended to stop at up to 1200 for a while. Then a week or so ago I set the idle to 900 RPM (I don't know what it was actually set to before that) and it still tended to sometimes get stuck at up to 1200. Over last weekend I went through the steps outlined by Redline to set the idle and mixture screws. In doing that I changed the mixture screw from about 4 turns out to the more correct 21/2. Also I could see that the the throttle was sticking a little, I believe with the car off at that time, it would just stop a little short of fully released and I could easily push it the rest off the way. Not too big a deal, I assume that's what it has been doing all along, figured I fix it when I got around to it. It doesn't have a return spring. Up until yesterday that was the only time I noticed an issue. When shifting as soon I put the clutch pedal in the RPM would start to drop until I had in the next gear at which point it would go up again. Exactly what I expect. But then yesterday when I was driving and it was fully warm (seems this might be worse when the car is warmer) it started often not dropping below 1200 at idle, and when I stepped on the clutch pedal it would often either not decrease in RPM or would increase instead. As soon as in gear it would go to the RPM I would expect for that gear and speed. When I got where I was going I left it running and checked the throttle and sure enough it was clearly not fully releasing. But then I checked it again right after I shut the engine off and it would fully release. Did the same thing when I drove it home that night. So tonight I thought maybe when the engine was off I had pushed the throttle much farther by hand than I did with the engine running and if so maybe it had sprung back faster and having more force got it to fully release. And I checked how far I was pushing with the engine running and then only went about that far with it off and it still fully released with it off.
My dad said "Just put a spring on it and then it should release." Problem solved. But I'd like to know what changed. Why it was consistent in dropping below 1200 until yesterday.
Any ideas what the issue is?
Cari

[dlb]

I haven't had a weber in a very long time so I can't recall everything that is done in the swap to a weber, but I feel like a throttle return spring is necessary. Can you take a picture of the rear side of your carb, where the throttle stuff is? I'd like to see how the swap was done.

I'm assuming your car came to you with the weber on it, that you didn't install it -- is that right?

[Mogordo]

That's right. The Weber was on before I got the car. I can take some pictures tomorrow so you can see the set up. What I'm wondering about is why it changed. I figure the idling up to 1200 RPM could be because of it not having a spring but I don't know why it suddenly would get worse (I've been driving it since last August without the other issues until yesterday) unless because things just got more gunked up, before driving it last time today I sprayed some carb cleaner around where the throttle components are and some into the carburetor but I've no other experience with doing that and don't know if I did it most effectively but it didn't seem to change anything the way I did it. Even more confusing to me is why it didn't seem to be sticking when the engine wasn't running.
Thanks, Maybe the pictures will help.

[Mogordo]

Well, that got me looking more at how the throttle and cable are set up and it's different than what I see on here. I'm not sure how I would even get a spring

[Mogordo]

Didn't mean to submit that yet. I was saying I don't know how I would even get a spring to attach and pull in the right way with what is on there. And the cable also isn't going staright to where it is attached.
Here are pictures:

[Mogordo]

I just read through a lot of posts and found more pictures. A lot from here and referenced from here: viewtopic.php?p=79052&hilit=Weber+throttle+set+ seemed informative but I don't know still what to change. There are a lot more ideas than I know to do with. Maybe I need more pieces if I want it to work right?

[Nordical25]

Does your cable not return to original spot?

From pictures I can see that your cable is not in straight line between carb lever and that red plastic bit. I wonder if it could work better if you change alignment of that cable and lever.

[Mogordo]

That's right, it doesn't return all the way sometimes. I have a long explanation six messages up in this thread with more details and background. I am wondering too if the alignment is part of it but thinking also there could be more that isn't set up ideally that is also an issue.

[Mogordo]

I remembered that when I was re-tuning things over last weekend I did at one point, not for the tuning, loosen the two nuts on either side of that bracket holding the cable up just before the red piece and didn't make it more than finger tight then. I just wrench tightened those in case somehow the cable housing was moving there and contributing. It doesn't seem it would have been moving much but that is the one thing I messed with before it got worse so maybe. I'll see when I drive it tonight if that did anything.
I just looked at it again and I think I would need some different pieces to get the end of the throttle cable more in straight alignment with where it comes through that bracket.

[dlb]

Ahhhh. This is what I suspected. Whoever installed that Weber didn't do a good job of it. Attaching the throttle cable like that is enough for it to work but as you are finding, it doesn't work well. There needs to be a return spring to ensure that the throttle rests in the closed position. Here is a video of forum member xirdneh's (aka robert walker) carb rebuild video, it should start around 11:14 and show the stock carb throttle setup. You can see the throttle return spring and throttle cable bracket. I know that doesn't quite apply to you since you have a weber carb but the same principles apply.

https://youtu.be/kCzFuPqssfE?t=674

I guess my suggestion is to find the throttle brackets from a stock carb so you can put the on your weber, like splatterdog shows in that thread you linked to. I did without welding, just drilled the bump out and used a small nut and bolt there.