4AC Swap question

[BrownBadger]

I am getting ready to install a freshly rebuilt 4AC into my new Tercel. Initially when I was reading through some other swap threads it sounded like all that needed to be swapped over were the oil pan and external parts. Now, going back through some topics I see it mentioned that the oil pickup should be swapped as well. When my engine got assembled I believe the 4AC pickup was used. Do I need to pull the pan and install the 3AC pickup, or is the one from the 4AC ok? I would rather fix this while I still have it on a stand if it needs to be done, than to find out after the install that it causes a problem. Any input would be appreciated.

[rer233]

Whenever i swap an oil pan, i ALWAYS use the matching pickup. Do it now (while it's easy.)

[Petros]

the transvers 4ac oil pick up is shorter since the pan is shorter, they look the same but they are not. If you leave it you run the risk of running the engine dry of oil in hard turns or if you are little low on oil.

I would change it out. removing the oil pan is a lot easier now than replacing the engine bearings and crankshaft later.

[BrownBadger]

Alright, got the correct pickup installed. I re-used the rubber oil pan gasket from the rebuild kit and added some more gasket sealer, then torqued all the bolts to 48 foot pounds. After reading around, it sounds like this torque spec might be too high. Do I need to loosen things up a bit, or should it be ok? Would rather not have to deal with an oil pan leak if I don't have to.

[dlb]

unless you mean 48 inch pounds, that's way way too tight. check the FSM again. those 10 mm bolts should only be just snug. if you are going to use a torque wrench for them, it will need to be a very small one. i usually use a bolt driver to help prevent me from overtightening them.

[Petros]

if you actually managed to get 48 ft-lbs on those 10 mm pan bolts you have likely damaged the gasket. usually you would shear the blots off long before you get to 48 fl lbs. if not the gasket gets crushed and it will split, and almost certainly leak. I even find the 48 in-lbs too much (4 ft lbs), so I also just get them a little beyond snug, and get them all the same.

[BrownBadger]

Just a typo. I meant inch pounds, or about 4 foot pounds. Sounds like even this might be too much?

[dlb]

i've never used a torque wrench on pan gasket bolts so i'm not sure exactly how tight i've done them up in the past, or how tight 4 inch lbs is. if you had to use anything more than finger force on the wrench, or if the gasket appears squeezed or crushed, i would redo it. otherwise it should be fine.

[keith]

If its a felpro gasket set, you can go up to 10 ft/lbs. 4 is better though. You cannot use a click type torque wrench, it has to be a dial type or a beam bar type. I have found that a 1/4" drive nut driver gives about the right torque though.

[Petros]

those rubber pan gaskets are pretty durable, and if not hard and brittle they can be reused. the honda CRX/Civic engine uses a rubber gasket, and I have never had to replace one, I just reuse it.

I suspect most conventional torque wrenches are not accurate at 4 ft-lbs. I tried using a regular torque wrench once on the oil pan and promply sheared the head of the bolt off before I got anywhere near 4 ft-lbs. Since I do not have one of those tiny in-lb torque wrenches, and not likely to get one since the need for them on a car is so rare, I just hand tighten with the 1/4" drive socket wrench and feel the point where compression of the gasket occures, and get them all the same.