rod and main bearings: do these look OK?

[c_j]

I need to repower my T4 and I had this mystery 3A in the garage that was already bolted to a engine stand, so I drained the oil and pulled the oil pan. Can someone tell me what they think about the condition of these bearings?
at top:
from left to right: Main bearing# 1,2,3,4,5, then rod bearing 1,2,3,4
bearing numbering is backwards from cylinder numering?

rod_and_main_bearing_condition.jpg

This spare engine came as a package deal with a T4, and it was purported to be a rebuilt engine. The guy never gave any history or how many miles were on it, not even if it was rebuilt in 2012 or back in the 1800's. By the look of the yellow sticker on the valve cover, I think it might be a JDM engine, but I don't know for sure.

[Petros]

those bearings all look good to me, I would reuse them. the crank journals all look okay as well.

you have to look at the top half of the rod bearing to know if they are good (the lower half looks okay but the wearing side is on the top half). just look at the number 3 or 4 bearing by carefully pushing them down from the crank, if they are in similar condition just put it back together. If not sure you can use plasti-gauge on them, cheap from any auto parts store (yo torque on the cap with the thread of plastic in the bearing-no oil, and than untorque it and measure the width of smash-out). make sure you put oil on the journals before you do the final toqure-up.

make very sure you get the caps back on in exactly the same place and in the same direction as they came off.

if the head is off btw, I would slip out one or tow pistons and check the rings at this point. pull the top one off and slip it in the bore and measure the gap. if the head is not off than just put it back together and run it!

[c_j]

The head is still on, so I will leave it on, check the top half of those rod bearings, and if all is good, reassemble and give it a try. I don't think we have any plasti-gauge handy, but I will check. I took a before photo showing the orientation of the markings on the main bearing caps and also the orientation of the bumps on the rod bearing caps.

Thanks for the advice Petros.

[xirdneh]

[quote="c_j"] I took a before photo showing the orientation of the markings on the main bearing caps and also the orientation of the bumps on the rod bearing caps.quote]

if you ever should get the rod caps mixed up you can match them back up by the machining marks with a magnifying glass
of course I had to do this cause i mixed them up once
took them to a machine shop and the guy re-matched them for me using that technique

[keith]

Those bearing look brand new to me, I would not mess with them. Why did you pull the pan anyway?

[c_j]

@xirdneh: Magnifying glass, eh? Sounds like CSI forensics for matching bullet to barrel.

@keith: Thanks for the second opinion. The block was already on the engine stand, and like I said, I have no history on the motor, so before I go to the work of swapping all the parts over and installing, I figured that I'd spin it upside down and have a look. Plus, I have another complete engine (with minor issues - but I know it's history) that I would have used otherwise.

[Petros]

all engine manufacturers mark or number the rod caps so they do not get mixed up, Toyota is the only one that does not. they do have numbers on the caps, but it appears to be some kind of production mark rather than something to help the mechanic because there is no discreditably reason for the numbers. it would be ideal to mark the rods and caps with a number punch, 1 thru 4. Otherwise you risk getting it wrong, unless you examine the machine marks with a magnifying glass and can get them to match exactly.