xirdneh wrote:...so when he set his wrench at 43 it was really 39.3
maybe thats why his head gasket leaked coolant in less than three weeks
yes, I would say it is very likely.
I had bought a new one while on a road trip, to install a head gasket on rescue Tercel before I drove it home (three states away). It indicated almost 60 ft-lb when it was at 43 ft-lbs by this calibration test. After I used it once (adjusting for the error), I took that one back.
Yeah I could see them doing something like that haha, well when/if I replace my head gasket (hopefully no time soon) I may just order a head gasket for a 80-82....
So I know i have been absent lately been kinda busy, but a little update. More smoke more often runs rough during start-up, radiator fluid does need topped off sometimes. So my plan of attack I suppose ( i just re-torqued the head bolts) replace head bolts even though pretty much everyone is saying they are probably good, Probably will replace water pump also, and would also like to go after a mutilayer head gasket this go around, I see the 83 has the holes needed to get the cooling even though i have added the holes it still has failed me My question does the oil return need to modified do you guys think? Does that head gasket come in mutilayer? If not where would you recommend i go for a mutilayer? Im going to take out and flush my radiator even though i think its clean and clear, also have my head gone through and probably just get new valves while im at it (285k). I was running regular with a little bit of a miss i suppose every so often idling so i will only run premium from now on. Since my temp gauge doesnt do anything crazy i wont be replacing that because its new. Does everyone think Im somewhat covering my bases? I know this is a lot to read!
Flatness, flatness, flatness. The most important thing for head gaskets is making sure both the head and the block surface are flat (I think the Toyota spec is .002"). I've used the Petros method of refinishing with sandpaper and a flat thing. The super plain bathroom tile at home depot is surprisingly flat and you can get one for 89 cents or so. Put a weight on it so that you're not bending the tile and go to town. Start with 60 grit and finish with 120 after everything is flat. If the head needs work, start with 120 and finish with 200 since the aluminum cuts so much easier.
Unless you ruined your head bolts by majorly overtorquing them, they're fine; don't throw money at them. Get a good straightedge and feeler gauge and check your mating surfaces for flatness. Check both the bottom of the head definitely.
I would replace the thermostat (if not already one), any questionable coolant hoses, and get a new radiator cap (cheap and an important component in the cooling system) if it old. only replace the water pump if it is leaky, otherwise it is a waste of time, they seldom malfunction other than to leak.
do not waste money on new head bolts, not necessary, they are hardened steel. You only replace head bolts on the newer engines, not something this old.
You can try a re-torque, make sure the torque wrench is calibrated, do it in sequence as shown in the FSM or in my repair guilds head gasket thread, back off 1/8 of a turn to break it free, and than go to full toqure value.
if you find no other sourse of coolant leaks, after carefully checking coolant level for several weeks, you may indeed need a head gasket. follow my guide and as Teranfirbt points out, make sure both the top of the block and the head surface is flat. clean everything, including the head bolts and the holes they go in, well with stiff brushes and solvent, use thread lube on the bolts.
It should hold up well after that. Just make sure the cooling system is functioning properly first, or you may waste time and money trying to fix something that is not broken.
always diagnose the problem BEFORE you try and fix it.
If you get a stat get an OEM one, Toyota part number 90916-03090. I've had nothing but trouble with anything else. eBay has them for around 20 bucks shipped.