RPM Cycling Situation & Vacuum Switch Location Query

[gmeddy]

Ok, i had a quick search for thread on the topic, this is as close as i found...

i pulled my stock carb off again last night to connect all the vac hoses back up that i left off last time i failed to install my weber...


the idle was always sitting too high, and i couldn't find anything to do that would bring it back down.

So now i've attached all of them hoses again,
the idle is even HIGHER!
And i cant work out how to make it come back down.

i only have two vac ports that are capped, they have been capped or left open for the entire time i've had this car, many years.


the two with red and the one black one above. i'm not sure what they are supposed to be attached to...

this is my egr valve/port (i think)

note the blocked one on the bottom...



what is the big steel pipe that runs around from the bottom of the egr to the side of the manifold?


has anyone else got this weird port on the top of the engine? my dissy only has one vac port on it for the advance, whereas i see on the vac diagrams that there is three on them (usually?)

[ARCHINSTL]

I thnk your best bet would be to correspond with Mattel (he seems to be the only currently active member from Australia). The "normal" vac routings in the FSM (and on our site) are for the USA and Canada. After looking at your setup, it is really different from N. America.
Your EGR would seem to be inoperative, as there is no modulator present (the big steel pipe leading to it is for exhaust gas supply) - nor are there rubber tubes present.
The "port" at the back of the valve cover is a mystery - particularly the two tubes leading from it to - where? The tubes are present in the first but not the last photo. No vacuum is available for the tubes from the cam cover. We have nothing ike that here.
Is your TVSV working? That is the black plastic gizzy screwed into the water pipe with the tubes attaching to it (easy to break, and pretty necessary when using the OE carb). Ours is a different setup, kinda.
Your first and fifth photos have a black cylinder/tube on the firewall just behind the engine. There is some kind of label on it. What is it?
Sorry I could not be of more help.
Tom M.

P.S. Off-topic, but - I recognize Ayers Rock in your avatar, but who is the dude?

[takza]

I've added an extra spring INSIDE the OEM one that acts to close the throttle....some lube and an extra spring might drop the idle some. Just need a spring that fits inside the original spring's ID...and that is the right length to add some stiffness.

There is another "idle screw" to the front of the carb...at least on mine...the one that controls how fast it comes off of idle...might loosen this up some if you have it.

[Petros]

There are two idle adjustments as Takza pointed out, one is the "warm" idle, the other the cold idle that rests on stepped cam. If either is too high it will idle too fast, even when warm.

Also, sometimes carbs can just wear out, a worn throttle shaft, for example, can allow too much leakage and you can not get the idle down. A vac leak test with carb cleaner spray (while it is running) will tell you where it is leaking. One one of the hoses or metal tubes could have a crack, or even one of the diaphragms or devices the vac lines run too could cause a leak.

If it were me, I would remove all of the vac operated stuff, plug the holes and switch to the Weber. A lot easier to find a leak if you have a lot less items that can leak. The only one you need is the distributor vac advance, and even that is not necessary to drive it.

Good luck.

[gmeddy]

thanks for all the great replies,
yeah it's a bit different hey.
if you want i can post more photos of it.

ARCHINSTL:
the black tube thing behind the engine I installed about 8 years ago, I was talked into it by a mate who sold/installed the devices at his work.
it's called a "fuel-star" i think.
it is full of Tin balls and it is installed directly in the fuel line.
all the fuel runs through it, as it does, the Tin balls that are rattling around in it, drip lots of tiny tin particles into the fuel...
I'm not sure if it really does anything at all or is just a gimik.
it doens't seem to ever have had a bad effect.

it was something that was supposed to help with the lead replacement that these old engines need or something...
and i was also told it helps clean your engine and your oil will be cleaner yada yada.
i'm not sure.
my oil still gets black... but does it take longer to GET black than before? ? i'm not sure.

i'll track down where them two hoses go from the top of the cam cover and let you know.

i'm not sure about any of the other stuff thats working or not.

obviously the egr is not... a while ago i pulled that hose off and saw the pipe was full of crud.

and what about the big steel pipe going from it around to the mani? do yours have that? if i go ahead and remove it and port it to take the PCV line, should i block off that opening on the manifold where the steel pipe go's? Obvious i would i guess... If i can cut my air cleaner down to size today i will go ahead with my weber installation and post my story on monday or tuesday.
thanks guys.

[ARCHINSTL]

A-Ha on the black tube!

The big pipe you mention is what conveys exhaust gases to the EGR - pretty sure all of our cars have this. You can block it with a 20x1.50mm bolt at the manifold (frequently a transmission filler plug) - that is what splatterdog and moi used. splatterdog also routed the PCV tube to a plate bolted to the EGR entrance to the manifold - see his post/pix on Weber Install on the home page.

While I am sure you have plans to do so - review the assorted threads and pix on the Weber install. Apart from the one on the home page, mentioned above:
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4& ... ilit=weber
and
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7& ... ilit=weber
Tom M.