Tuff Tercel Truck

[irowiki]

Oh don't let my experience scare you Rokk, let's put it this way. Before I did anything, the temp would climb above half, but stabilize, during long periods of highway speeds.

After redoing everything but the water pump, I took her 200 miles to Albuquerque doing 70-80 MPH (and it was hot out), spent a day going around in heavy city traffic (still while it was hot) and the temp never even hit the halfway point! I consider it a success overall.

Consider my poor car was very neglected, I doubt the cooling system had anything done to it in at least ten years!

dlb: sounds good, thanks!

[Petros]

if the rad gets plugged up after a flush like that it can be removed and back flushed with a hose. I have done this several times, even let it sit with vinegar in it for 30 min, and than back flush. that will loosen the new derbies and clean out any scale that might be on the inside of the radiator. One word of caution: if your radiator is old and corroded than putting anything caustic in it(like vinegar) might open up a few leaks. But if that is the case, the radiator needed to be replaced or rebuilt anyway. Just be prepared.

A radiator shop can also remove the top and clean out the tubes from the top, I had to have this done after a cheap POS commie built water pump shredded and put metal all over inside the cooling system in our Mazda. It plugged the near new radiator and the heater core. I was able to back flush the heater core, but the radiator needed the top removed and the tubes clean out with tiny bushes that looked like a bottle brush. It was much cheaper than replacing radiator, but there was no savings in cost to use the cheapo rebuilt water pump, NEVER do that!

Also, I echo never use tap water or any water of unknown origin in the radiator. I had a good radiator scale up after putting tap water in in it, no way to clean it out, I had to replace it. I use filtered water along with the antifreeze.

[Rokkatansky]

Looked at the 75th anniversary toyota tercel brochure and noticed the seats recline far back so that one can sit in the back and put feet over front seats like a lazy boy. I tried this and it doesn't work, do the Yank cars do this option? I also noticed the seats have lumber.
Another question is my tailgate won't open properly with inside tailgate release lever next to seat, does anyone know how to rectify this problem?
Also my tailgate won't close properly without turning key to left then taking it out, is this common with tailgates?

[ARCHINSTL]

The answers to question #1: Nope and nope. Jealous on the lumbar feature.
The answer to question #2: No inside release on North American cars - jealous. Ditto on remote release for fuel.
The answer to question #3: Again, not on North American cars - well, at least on '86 edition (I've forgotten on my '83).
Tom M.

[TominMO]

Love yer Terc, rokka!
Two other points on the cooling system:
1. In your case it needed a new rad cap, but another reason the temp gauge might fluctuate is the temp sender unit plugged into the block. If it is faulty, or the connection has become corroded, you can get false readings.
2. When filling the rad, it is helpful to park the car on an incline such that the filler hole is "uphill" from the upper rad hose. This will encourage any air pockets to bubble up to the filler hole and burst, when the engine is cold and idling with the cap off.

[Mattel]

those brochures are probably jdm. they had a few extra trinklets

I always had problem with the interior release for the hatch on both my T4s. it only worked if someone was pulling the hatch while another person used the lever and never sprung up on its own. maybe try this. perhaps this is the way they are meant to be? I think that the lock on yours might be a bit wonky though.

good to see a T4wd owner in Perth. I'd always see a few when I was over there. but now the mining boom means everyone has forgotten about the old cars i think. cheers.

[Rokkatansky]

The mission this weekend was to drive up north to a town 290km's away.
The car was packed and we started the journey. Around 80km's out of town the Terc started playing up and was spluttering, I opened the hood inspected the engine seemed like everything was in order, I cleaned the plugs non the less.
Spoke to friends that we were traveling with that there may be a problem with the car and our camping destination may change, they were fine with it, just happy to get out of the big smoke.
The Terc trugged on and was going well, so I extended the destination until we reached our destination and past.
At the camp spot I checked the engine and noticed a tinkering sound coming from this unit where the fuel lines go into.
It was happening at lower range revs.

charcoal filter.jpg

What is this unit I may need a new one. Obviously part of the fuel system.

The Terc started fine so we drove on discovering new destinations.

terc hill.jpg

kangaroo sign 2.jpg

terc an trac.jpg

bad ass terc.jpg

dead roo.jpg

night light 2.jpg

Back on the road on the way back the Terc started playing up, but I wasn't having it, so I revved it up a few times while driving and it back fired and seemed to unclog an artery.

Just washed the Terc and it started playing up, so I tapped the fuel thing and it de- clogged. Then on my way home it started up again, revved it a few times and it came well again.
What is it's problem?

[dlb]

that's the fuel pump in your first pic. if you think it's ticking at low rpm, i would confirm that the ticking is not the valves. with the pump sitting right next to the valve cover, it's easy to mix up which one is producing the sound. put the tip of a large screwdriver on the pump and then the valve cover and then put your ear on the end of the handle. it will amplify the sounds coming from each thing and will help you confirm which is making the ticking. there is a test in the FSM for the fuel pump so you can also try that.

what were you doing when the car started sputtering, and can you describe the symptoms with more detail? for example, was it bogging and bucking on hard throttle, sputtering on idle, etc?

when did you last change the fuel filter? if you haven't already, i would do that. like the rad cap, they're cheap (about $5) and only take a minute to replace.

how was temp on your trip? any fluctuations?

[Petros]

as DLB pointed out that is the fuel pump, they are easy to test with pressure gauge. if your fuel system is full of debris and loose particles you might need to replace the fuel filter and flush out the pump. Other issues related to fuel pump is check valves work intermittent because of wear or debris, so either clean it out or replace the pump. Also, a pin hole leak in the fuel line up stream of the fuel pump could cause fuel starvation issues, sucks air in through the hole rather than fuel. check all of your fuel lines for cracks/leaks, if in doubt replace them all, your are likely as old as the car. there are also several at the fuel tank that should be considered, you have to drop the fuel tank to get to those however.

When I take long road trips I try to take spare parts for anything that would leave me stranded: a spare fuel pump, fuel line, water hoses (unless yours are new), fan belts, timing belt, distributor and coil, alternator and voltage regulator. Plus all the tools to repair or replace those items. most other failures (short of a major engine or trans bundle-up), you can drive to the nearest auto parts store.

[c_j]

night light 2.jpg

Great pics, esp the night one... nice work.

[Rokkatansky]

what were you doing when the car started sputtering, and can you describe the symptoms with more detail? for example, was it bogging and bucking on hard throttle, sputtering on idle, etc?[/quote]

It was bogging on Hard throttle then came clear after hard pumps on accelerator.
Found it hard to start up this morning, so I sprayed 'Start ya bastard' and it started. Just put in fuel line cleaner and may replace fuel filter and it "seems" to be running fine, yet it is only 3 months old, I have clocked up the km's on it since I bought it though.

how was temp on your trip? any fluctuations?[/quote]

Temp was good, held up really well. Really glad to have heard of this site, it's been a great savior.

You take a spare fuel pump Petros? I Got the price for one the company stopped making them, they cost $280. I guess for you guys thats like $120 since our dollars gotten a bit weaker, which now means we get charged even more.
Thats what you get for living in one of the most expensive places on earth.

There is now a clunking sound coming from the front left strut, I better investigate.

May be going up some dirt tracks this weekend.

Touch wood!

[ARCHINSTL]

I Got the price for one the company stopped making them, they cost $280.
I guess for you guys thats like $120 since our dollars gotten a bit weaker, which now means we get charged even more.
Thats what you get for living in one of the most expensive places on earth.

Current price at chain parts stores in the USA is around USD35 which, at today's exchange rate, is just less than AUD39.
Postage (air only, obviously) would be about USD60 (OUCH!). It could be as low as USD44 if a padded International USPS "envelope" could be used.
Maybe it would prove prudent to have one of us send you one?
Tom M.

[dlb]

It was bogging on Hard throttle then came clear after hard pumps on accelerator.

sounds like a typical fuel supply issue.

Just put in fuel line cleaner and may replace fuel filter and it "seems" to be running fine, yet it is only 3 months old, I have clocked up the km's on it since I bought it though.

even with lots of driving, a fuel filter should last a year or two. pull yours and hold it up to light. if it looks rusty or excessively dark, you could have a rusted gas tank that is clogging the filter up right quick. if the filter still looks pretty clean, it's probably fine and you should look for fuel leaks and test the pump.

You take a spare fuel pump Petros? I Got the price for one the company stopped making them, they cost $280.

these fuel pumps are very reliable so if it is the cause of your problems and you can't find them at a reasonable price like ARCHINSTL mentioned, you should be able to find one at a wrecker.

There is now a clunking sound coming from the front left strut, I better investigate.

when does this happen? if it happens when you turn right, it's probably the left CV axle. if the boot is torn, that's a dead giveaway. torn boots allow the grease to come out and dirt to get in, and it wears the joint out. they do eventually wear out though, even if the boot isn't torn.

[Petros]

that is way too much for a fuel pump, if yours is good leave it, but if it needs to be replaced you might consider putting in an after market electric fuel pump. Since the stock fuel pump is very reliable I get mine at a wrecking yard for like $8 and carry it as a spare. I have never had a fuel pump fail, but they do occasionally give up, and than you are stuck.

[Rokkatansky]

Thanks blokes.
Yeah, nothings really cheap here.
Around $30 a fuel pump? I can't believe we get charged what they charge us.
The cars running well still so the fuel pump can't be gone right?
Cant find a Tercel at a wrecking yard here there rare as hens teeth.
The problem came about after doing that hard run on the amber light from previous post, I figure I ran to the gunk in tank an some sediment may have got stuck.
That the assumption, I mean it's still running, unless fuel pumps can stop and go before they die?

Here are some more shots of the Terc in action.
Taken it on so many road trips since I got it.
I actually find some Zen in fixing it.

terc long road.jpg

terc on rokks.jpg

That sound in the front left strut only came about after the weekends cajoling in the dirt/sand.
Changed the CV and bearing at the start of this journey.
Rained last night and there was a still a lot of sand falling from the undercarriage even after I washed it (What I thought thoroughly.