Fresh Horses

[dlb]

congrats! pics please!

[Mad_Marx]

Still in the break in period, but it cranks right up and runs strong (for a 3A), very smooth through the RPM range, and so far no leaks. Only took me 6 months

[dlb]

man, i love a spotless engine bay. i like the creative vacuum plug for that manifold vacuum port. i do have a few suggestions though.

- connect the lower port on the vacuum advance canister to the port on the passenger side of the weber
- connect the upper port (the one w/o the brass restriction device if yours has that) to manifold vacuum
- reinstall the charcoal canister and hook it up to the port on the passenger side of the weber that is blocked with a brass plug
- block the plastic elbow on the bottom of the air filter housing

the first will advance timing at hwy cruising (better economy), the second will advance timing at idle and hwy cruising (also better for economy), the third will prevent the car from reeking of gas (which i experienced until i finally reinstalled mine) and decrease emissions, and the fourth will stop unfiltered air from entering the combustion chamber.

the EGR can also be run on the weber if you like. you just need to run a splitter on the same port that the charcoal canister gets hooked up to, and connect that line to the diaphragm of the EGR. most people prefer to be rid of it all the same but i thought i'd mention it in case you were interested.

again, looks great!

[ARCHINSTL]

Ditto on the looks!
Question, though...am I the ONLY one who had continuing clearance probs with the stock (short) Redline filter case when using the OE phenolic spacer/PCV routing? Not only did I have to cut away part of the hood's X-bracing, but had to eventually sorten the height of the filter element! I had installed new motor and trans mounts, but still... Did you install new mounts as well?
Tom M.

[Mad_Marx]

@DLB, Thanks for the list! Addressing vacuum routing, was on my punch list! ...and THANKS for seeing the effort I put into getting things clean. When I purchased the car there wasn't a square inch of the engine bay that wasn't covered in GOO, 215,000 miles and I'm pretty sure those were 0 maintenance.

@ARCHINSTL, YES! New motor mounts and Yes, having clearance issues, the first time I shut the hood on the new build I put a nice dimple in my hood Is the phenolic spacer even needed? seems I could run a fitting with a T-connector to where the EGR used to be (currently plugged).

[dlb]

marx, there are a few options for hood clearance. the phenolic spacer is not really required (many run without it with no problems) but it does reduce heating of the carb body from the intake manifold. if you do delete it, you can mod the old EGR port and hook the PCV hose up to it. another route is to cut a hole in the hood and put a hood scoop on. i went that route because i had predetonation issues for a long time and needed to rule out overheating of the air/fuel mixture as it passed through the carb. here's how i did it:

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6580&p=49009

an additional note on the charcoal canister: some members have found that as the charcoal breaks down, it allows more fresh air to enter via the bottom port. the increased fresh air mixed with the gas fumes winds up being too lean and is essentially a vacuum leak. if you have problems with this, you can add an air flow metering device from an aquarium between in the vac line between the charcoal can and the carb. this allows you to control the amount of air/gas fumes the carb can suck in. i just installed this and found the metering device at a pet store for .99 cents. not bad! they look something like this



and have two ports and one screw that adjusts the air flow.

[GLet71]

Shouldn't dlb's link have an 'er' on the end? It is BC after all~

[ARCHINSTL]

As dlb noted, there are some options for an alternative PCV attachment; do a Search here for splatterdog's - it is pretty elegant and several others have adopted it in various forms.
I elected to keep the phenolic spacer with PCV routing.
I did, however, isolate the charcoal canister from the loop - and eventually removed it altogther. I routed the tank return tube to the canister's original provision for sucking in fresh air - a hole in the "chassis." No ill effects (or smells) have been noticed.
Look at https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... t=canister and https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ter#p54655
Tom M.

[dlb]

yeah, i ran without the charcoal can for a few years now but have always had varying levels of gas smell. i figured it was the carb float or needle valve leaking but as soon as i put the charcoal can back in the loop, the smell disappeared. i don't think anyone else has complained about it though so i might be alone on this one.

[ARCHINSTL]

yeah, i ran without the charcoal can for a few years now but have always had varying levels of gas smell. i figured it was the carb float or needle valve leaking but as soon as i put the charcoal can back in the loop, the smell disappeared. i don't think anyone else has complained about it though so i might be alone on this one.

Doesn't Canadian gasoline use Moosehead beer instead of the corn-derived ethanol we use here in the States?
That is prob the reason for the odor...
Tom M.

[Mad_Marx]

That reminds me, Canadian beer was (and continues to be) KEY in the Terc II rebuild process!

[Mad_Marx]

Finally got around to an exhaust system upgrade. 2" from the manifold all the way out the back with a new high flow cat from CatCo and muffler from Thrush. Sounds throaty.

ExhaustBoogaloo.jpg

[ARCHINSTL]

Looks good - clean underside as well!
What was the sourcing for the pipes, particularly for the mani-to-cat sizing?
Tom M.

[Mad_Marx]

They were one-off fabricated by a local exhaust shop. I am not a skilled exhaust fabricator, so I had the work done by the pros at Boise Muffler.

[irowiki]

How much did fabricated pipes cost, if I may ask?