Peculiar engine knock due to lack of proper maintenance

[Petros]

when my kids were young they loved watching the little wagon go up and down. I called it my acclerometer, measured "equivalent" slope when going around turns or accelerating. most children that ever ride in my Tercel4wd love watching it so I always leave it unlocked.

[dlb]

all my buds love the clinometer too. they think it makes it look like the cockpit of a plane. i actually had to leave it locked for a few months because i was getting way too distracted by it. just about anything that blinks and flashes gets me, i guess.

[ARCHINSTL]

just about anything that blinks and flashes gets me, i guess.

Stay away from the strip in Vegas, then...
Tom M.

[Aubrey Falconer]

Donor engine is now installed, and nearly fully connected. Unless I encounter unforeseen issues, a test drive is in the works for tomorrow!



So far, the only issue I haven't solved yet is that apparently the alternator design was altered rather significantly between '83 and '85. I used the '85 wiring harness as it contains the appropriate connections for an automatic transmission, but it's three wire alternator plug won't fit into the '83 alternator. Since the mount points are different on the two alternators, I was thinking it would be easiest to splice the '83 plug into the wiring harness. I suppose the relative position of each wire in the plugs should be all I need to consider?



Can't wait to install the inclinometer - thanks for the link DLb!
I suppose it will be a bit underpowered, but not too worried about that while it serves in the capacity of a daily driver.
I chose this car because of the 4WD ability, and I am sure it will be invaluable here in the winter time with all the snow we get. Can hardly wait to see how it does

[Aubrey Falconer]

...And it works!

Still tuning things up, but I now have a functional car. Many thanks to all of you here, I'll be sure to check in on this forum from time to time.

I haven't yet spliced in the '83 alternator plug - the wires are different sized and colors, and I'd hate to start burning electronics out now that I'm almost done. Does anyone know how I could verify that the relative position of the three wires in the plug running to the alternator hasn't changed between '83 and '85 - and that whatever those wires do is compatible between the years? It seems like Toyota must have had a good reason for changing the plug shape...

[dlb]

hey guy. i'm only guessing but i would be confident that the position of the wires would be the same even though the plug is different. toyota did the same thing with other electric components, like windshield wiper motors, and i've had to cut my old plugs and splice on the new kind for the new component. obviously, this is a bigger concern with an alternator but i have no idea about this particular matter. you should definitely post your findings once you figure it out! have you tried using the search feature on the forum? i imagine someone must have encountered this before.

[Petros]

one of those alternators, the '85, has an internal voltage regulator, the other uses an external voltage regulator. I would stick with the internal voltage regulated one. It is very reliable and is the more common of the two. Actually there seems to be no rhyme or reason for the two alternator types (low bidder that week perhaps), because I have owned several '83/84 and all have had the internal voltage regulator.

I would not just splice the connector, they were different so you would not mix up the alternator type. One has the voltage regulator mounted behind the battery on the inner fender, the other has none but just a wire bundle in the same spot. So either change over the whole alternator and wire bundle, or keep it the same. I do not think the wire bundle for the auto trans is any different, these were not computerized trans like the new ones, all they have is a sensor for reverse, and for 4wd for the dash light.

[Aubrey Falconer]

Thanks Petros!
After reading a bit about Internal regulator alternators, I decided to go with the '85 one a couple days ago. This involved pulling out the ac pump and everything to switch over the mounting bracket, but all is now installed and working great.

The car is currently running fine once it has warmed up for five of six minutes, but will not idle cold. I suspect this is due to a vacuum leak somewhere, and am confident that it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out.
I am now renovating the interior. This morning I replaced the turn signal assembly since the '85's was cracked and wouldn't switch properly, and am now installing the inclinometer. I just finished giving it's hood a fresh coat of paint after carefully JB welding and sanding a couple of cracks it contained, and the solid satin black finish seems to compliment the central control stack nicely.



Removing the dash (or "safety pad", as the Japanese apparently call it) has me rather baffled at the moment, but there's got to be some way to pull the instrument cluster out enough to disconnect it's rear connections...

I was rather amused to discover the cause of my interior blower's pathetic performance - apparently some mouse built a rather elaborate fiberglass nest inside of the centrifugal fan. I was also rather shocked to discover that some previous owner had an autopage security system installed (still don't know what it is capable of doing or have a remote for it) - you just never know what you'll find when you tear into old stuff.



Here's an interesting question: My '83 wiper switch has off, intermittent, slow, and fast positions - and the '85 has mist, off, slow, and fast. The mist mode doesn't seem to do anything, and having an intermittent mode would be quite cool. When I tried plugging the '83 switch wires into the '85 steering wiring plugs, the intermittent mode did nothing. Any idea what else I would need to borrow from the '83s electrical system to get this to work?
EDIT: Just fixed the Mist mode by cleaning it's internal switch contacts, this should be fine.

[Petros]

The insturment cluster is easy to remove, you remove the 4 screws, pull the cluster out about 2 inches and you reach behind to pull out the connectors and the speedo cable. Both the cable and connectors have little tabs you have to press or pull on to release them. The padded dash should just come out with a lot of screws that you reach under the trim and the other panels, I have removed them before I do not remember them being difficult. Do not force it or you will damage it, just look for screws from under it so you can find where they are, I seem to recall the plastic side window defroster vents had to come out to reach some of the screws (I soaked behind them in Amorall first to lubricate it before I pried the out).

Good luck.

[ARCHINSTL]

Aubrey - and others...
As far as meeces building nests in the blower and other vent clogging, see: https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... lit=intact
Since I did this some years ago, I've had no buildup of debris in the cowl compartment - or critter cribs...

And about the inclinometer installation - I have yet to install one I bought last year, but am getting closer... Anyway, maybe an easier method for wiring is to link into the 4WD wire from the transfer case and then link the illumination wire into maybe the wire to the heater "faceplate" bulb? Just throwing out ideas, mind...
Tom M.

[Aubrey Falconer]

Just determined that the idling issue was a lack of tension on the automatic choke spring - The choke wasn't closing reliably, so the engine had a hard time running right after start. My AC pump's bearing also seems to be on it's last legs, so I guess i'll need to switch the pump over from the other tercel. Next update should be in a couple more days once I get enough free time to finish this project - I sure am looking forward to it!

[dlb]

aubrey, i've been away for a while, just got home. you're making tons of headway!

on the topic of wiper controls, i swapped some adjustable intermittent wipers from a 4runner or pickup into my terc. super cheap and easy to do. check out this thread if you're interested:

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7& ... ers#p49010

[Aubrey Falconer]

Have now driven the Tercel around 600 miles on the '83 engine, and it is performing great!
For those who may be interested, here's my current repair log:

Short Term Todo:
Experiment with mileage! Have been getting 22 with the carb flooding itself, hope to get much better now that it's adjusted conservatively.
Find new bushings for front sway bar ends and install (All local auto parts stores stumped, found some online sources through the tercel forum)
Rainx windows, Scotchguard seats, 330 bumpers (interior vinyl already done)
Sand and paint rims textured black
New air filter
Procure winter tires and chains
Flush trans and diffs

Longterm Todo:
Install CB, 400W continuous inverter, etc
Install hitch for cycle transport, and perhaps a tiny boat
Repaint w/ black rubberized coating level with bumpers and below, metallic blue above w/ black accents and roof rack
Find out more about installed autopage security system. Get remote?


11/09/21 118,925
Have been running recommended amounts of MM oil through gas and in oil. Will flush with ATF @ next oil change
Tore down 1983 parts tercel to interior firewall, traced inclinometer wiring to each wire's respective source. Sand and paint inclinometer hood flat black, and borrow wiring plug. Remove dash, and install! Got the alignment and wiring perfect on the first try.
Adjust timing to 8 deg - should probably go to 10, as per everyone's advice
New NGK spark plugs, with gap set to tercel specs
New (used) AC pump from 1983 tercel. Unlike the alternator, the AC pump fit without issues. 85 alternator's clutch bearing was on the the way out, and made terrible noises as well as dragging while disengaged.
Rebuild turn signal selector with parts from 1983 tercel - entire moving frame was cracked, but the new frame works perfectlyInstalled R134a adaptor on low pressure side of AC pump and charged with 1 can of refrigerant. AC now works great!
New (used) radiator from 1983 tercel - factory plastic one developed cracks in end caps - tried JB welding, but didn't work at all
New carburetor (from the original 1985 engine) Includes new vacuum hose routing with all three lines supplied to IIA (advance is working great, after an hour or two in vacuum routing hell)
Adjusted idle, fast idle, etc on new carb
Disassembled new carb, cleaned all sediment from bowl, and set float level to about 1/3 up sight glass (was @ 4/5 before adjustment). Also replaced a couple old looking fuel lines. Gas smell solved, and engine now runs perfectly! Haven't yet experienced any hesitation.
Built custom iPhone mount into dash - consists of RAM mount base bolted through vibration dampening pad to right edge of gage cluster hood, with modified GPS cradle that snugly holds the iPhone inside it's bumper case. Includes routed and wrapped wires for charging, and audio playback through wired casette. Perfectly oriented for finger access with hands on steering wheel and eyes on road, and iPhone's noise cancellation circuit seemed to work perfectly for phone calls played over car's audio system

11/08/20 118,341
Swap engine from 1983 tercel with 297,502 miles - retain original wiring harness, alternator, air intake system, flywheel, and integrated ignition assembly
Replace valve cover gaskets
New AC belt
Change oil and install Wix filter
Flush coolant
Clean spark plugs and adjust gap
Adjust timing to 5deg btdc
Steam clean carbon deposits by dripping two cups water into carb while engine ran hot
Removed fiberglass dam from interior air blower, now works great!
Cleaned contacts on wiper control switch, mist mode now works

And here's a couple fun pictures:



Once the car is a bit more customized, I'll create a home for it in the gallery.

'Till then, if anyone could use reference pictures for tearing apart the dash, carburetor, swapping engines, routing vaccum lines, etc - please feel free to check out the pictures I have captured so far:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1027721690 ... elTeardown
https://picasaweb.google.com/1027721690 ... nReference

All the best,

-Aubrey

[dlb]

looks great! excellent detailed logs, too.

[ARCHINSTL]

GREAT photo sequence! Thanks!
I wondered on the "fiberglass dam" in the blower - until I saw your pix. Any idea on the sourcing - maybe the PO cut up insulation battens on the hood?
As to sourcing for the full set of front end bushings - look in the OE and AM Parts Forum; I have a thread there with the official Toy numbers. Some/most of these bushings are dealer-only nowadays.
Tom M.