Ford Cortina Mk3 with a Tercel Engine 3A Vacuum Leak

[DiNka]

welcome, dinka.

i want to help but don't even know where to begin. i think the best place to start is for you to read the emission section in the FSM that was mentioned earlier in the thread. it will explain some basic stuff like which devices should be hooked up to what, ie the vacuum advance unit on the dizzy should have the lower port hooked up to ported vacuum and the upper one hooked up to manifold vacuum. if you're not sure what that means, just look at the diagrams in the emission section and will show where everything goes. you just have to figure out what emission stuff your car has, which you can do by looking at it and then comparing to the devices listed in the emission section of the FSM.

in the future, can you post smaller pics? some are so large that it's hard to see things in context. that will make it easier to help you out.

12 L of fuel for 100 km of driving isn't very good mileage but with so many vacuum leaks and disconnected things, it's at least a testament to how these cars will continue running no matter what.

I did look into the Emition section and its just confusing a bit because there are lot more components and metal vacuum lines that mine doesn't even have but I got a lil into me by looking at the diagrams and I will keep on looking and about the "ie the vacuum advance unit on the dizzy should have the lower port hooked up to ported vacuum and the upper one hooked up to manifold vacuum" Can you mark them on a Picture I have uploaded to witch has to be connected to ? If its not any trouble of course
From all I've seen on my engine in the carb and Engine no other components such as charcoal canister, EGR etc etc my Country is a pretty hot place so most of the cold start stuff are removed and I need not to show any emission tests

[dlb]

I've seen some huge pipes going some where near the Carb in some pics and Vids I saw Mine has nothing and some time i see Spit of engine oil coming out of it.

where do you see oil come out of it?

These Needs capping right and what are they

both are just vacuum ports. the one on the right normally goes to the top port of the TVSV, which is the thing that looks like a tree and is screwed into the coolant pipe at the front of the engine. the other port you have circled is not one commonly found on our carbs here so i'm not sure where it's supposed to go but it is similar to the other one. when in doubt, plug it until you find the proper use for it.



that's a fuel cut solenoid. read about them in the emission section of the FSM.



all those wires supply electricity to the fuel cut solenoids, automatic choke, carb heater, etc.

The Wire Is broken I guess and What does this solenoid do ? Keep the idle right ?

you're zoomed in too close so i can't tell what that wire goes to.

Am i right ?

maybe. normally the mixture screw sits inside the carb and actually has a plug that prevents you from changing it so this doesn't look like the normal mixture screw; however, it looks to be in the right area so i'm not sure. you can test it by letting the car idle and then screwing it right down. if the car runs rougher and rougher and then dies, it is the mixture screw. i would suggest counting how many times you turn it in when you test it so that you can unscrew it as many times so that you don't change it but looking at the condition of the rest of your carb, it's probably out of adjustment and needs to be set anyway. each carb is different but it's the same approach to setting the mixture for all of them. google "how to set carb mixture screw" to learn how to do that.

What the hell is this

not sure, never seen it. hard to see in the photo.

What is this ? This has NO cap as well-

again, can't really see it. remove the other stuff to take a clearer picture.

Whats this and yeah no cap

that port is on the vacuum advance unit. the vacuum advance unit is used to advance the timing at particular times, like at idle, highway cruising, and high altitudes. the port you circled should go to manifold vacuum, which is the thing with either 2 or 3 ports that sits on the intake manifold, just in front of the carb.

[DiNka]

I've seen some huge pipes going some where near the Carb in some pics and Vids I saw Mine has nothing and some time i see Spit of engine oil coming out of it.

where do you see oil come out of it?

These Needs capping right and what are they

both are just vacuum ports. the one on the right normally goes to the top port of the TVSV, which is the thing that looks like a tree and is screwed into the coolant pipe at the front of the engine. the other port you have circled is not one commonly found on our carbs here so i'm not sure where it's supposed to go but it is similar to the other one. when in doubt, plug it until you find the proper use for it.



that's a fuel cut solenoid. read about them in the emission section of the FSM.



all those wires supply electricity to the fuel cut solenoids, automatic choke, carb heater, etc.

The Wire Is broken I guess and What does this solenoid do ? Keep the idle right ?

you're zoomed in too close so i can't tell what that wire goes to.

Am i right ?

maybe. normally the mixture screw sits inside the carb and actually has a plug that prevents you from changing it so this doesn't look like the normal mixture screw; however, it looks to be in the right area so i'm not sure. you can test it by letting the car idle and then screwing it right down. if the car runs rougher and rougher and then dies, it is the mixture screw. i would suggest counting how many times you turn it in when you test it so that you can unscrew it as many times so that you don't change it but looking at the condition of the rest of your carb, it's probably out of adjustment and needs to be set anyway. each carb is different but it's the same approach to setting the mixture for all of them. google "how to set carb mixture screw" to learn how to do that.

What the hell is this

not sure, never seen it. hard to see in the photo.

What is this ? This has NO cap as well-

again, can't really see it. remove the other stuff to take a clearer picture.

Whats this and yeah no cap

that port is on the vacuum advance unit. the vacuum advance unit is used to advance the timing at particular times, like at idle, highway cruising, and high altitudes. the port you circled should go to manifold vacuum, which is the thing with either 2 or 3 ports that sits on the intake manifold, just in front of the carb.

Thanks for that And I will come up with better pics 2mrw and about the advance vacuum One of them are connected to the Carb but one is just left so I caped it as some said it was a retard line.

[DiNka]

I've got a small question about Carburetor Solenoids, In my Toyota Aasin Carb there are 2 Solenoids one in the Primary and the other in the secondary So the question is when in ignition does the solenoids get +12V from the start to till the engine is shut down? Or does a ECu control it to vary ?

[dlb]

I've got a small question about Carburetor Solenoids, In my Toyota Aasin Carb there are 2 Solenoids one in the Primary and the other in the secondary So the question is when in ignition does the solenoids get +12V from the start to till the engine is shut down? Or does a ECu control it to vary ?

check the FSM, pages EC-56 to EC-59. the easy answer is that the fuel cut solenoids are switched on at idle and minimal throttle.

[DiNka]

I've got a small question about Carburetor Solenoids, In my Toyota Aasin Carb there are 2 Solenoids one in the Primary and the other in the secondary So the question is when in ignition does the solenoids get +12V from the start to till the engine is shut down? Or does a ECu control it to vary ?

check the FSM, pages EC-56 to EC-59. the easy answer is that the fuel cut solenoids are switched on at idle and minimal throttle.

I'm asking this because both my solenoids are disabled by the previous owner and till today I didn't notice that the secondary couldn't engage because the throttle arm was blocked half way by the intake manifold so all this time the secondary never opened due to the arm that opens the secondary throttle plate was blocked or i could say was not allowed to open because the intake manifold was in its way so now I have to build/make a custom spacer/thick gasket so that the carb is in a position allowing the moving parts to move freely with out distractions allowing me to accelerate properly and letting the secondary plate to open.. but the question is will it make any difference by making the secondary to work again ? as the solenoid is not working ? Will it allow the secondary to spit/flow fuel to the intake manifold when the secondary is opened like the primary does now ? I hope I'm clear on this If you need more clearing please let me know.

Cheers

[Petros]

the secondary throttle plate is vacuum operated by internal passage, most important aspect about it that the diaphramge is not damaged and able to operate, in addition to making sure the linkage is free to move its full range.

The solenoids cut off the fuel when the engine is cut off, or when you down shift, I did not think the engine would run properly at low speeds (low throttle position and idle) if they were disabled. You just need 12 v to them when the engine is running. This will allow it to idle properly at least.

Do you have 12v to your choke? if not the choke will not open. Yes, I think that brass screw with the spring under it is the idle mixture screw, the North American models have this one capped off so it can not be adjusted.

I would start off by capping all of the vac ports until you work your way through the various systems to see when you need or want to keep. It will not be easy without having all the parts in place. But if you study each system separately, and how they operated, I think it will be more obvious what to do with them. Take it one system at a time and it will not be so intimidating, they are not really that complicated. Many you can do without, some of them you can rig them up so they are functional to improve the drivablity.

[DiNka]

the secondary throttle plate is vacuum operated by internal passage, most important aspect about it that the diaphramge is not damaged and able to operate, in addition to making sure the linkage is free to move its full range.

The solenoids cut off the fuel when the engine is cut off, or when you down shift, I did not think the engine would run properly at low speeds (low throttle position and idle) if they were disabled. You just need 12 v to them when the engine is running. This will allow it to idle properly at least.

Do you have 12v to your choke? if not the choke will not open. Yes, I think that brass screw with the spring under it is the idle mixture screw, the North American models have this one capped off so it can not be adjusted.

I would start off by capping all of the vac ports until you work your way through the various systems to see when you need or want to keep. It will not be easy without having all the parts in place. But if you study each system separately, and how they operated, I think it will be more obvious what to do with them. Take it one system at a time and it will not be so intimidating, they are not really that complicated. Many you can do without, some of them you can rig them up so they are functional to improve the drivablity.

I hope the vacuum for the secondary works fine as it was not worked for all this time so i will have to take my chance making the spacer first I'm trying to use minimal vacuum lines as possible and My choke is always On I'm sure I can tune the engine to where it won't be needed and thanks for answering my question about the solenoids. But the issue is my secondary's Solenoid doesn't work i gave it +12v but no click but then again the primary solenoid works fine.. So will the not working solenoid stop fuel flow to the secondary when its opened ?

[Petros]

sounds like you need the choke "on" since there are so many vacuum leaks! Fix all the open vac ports and than you can get it to run properly. It should not harm the secondary to have the linage blocked, but you will have to make it work freely before we can know if the secondary even works. These carbs should have had a spacer under them already, I presume the engine/intake manifold/carb was as stock, the spacer has a built in heating element to prevent icing in cold weather. If yours is missing than yes, you will need to make one out of either plastic or aluminum.

You are throwing up too much at once, lets take it one system at a time. first get the spacer installed and than cap off all the open vac ports, from there we can work down the list. with the vac lines capped off you will than need to get 12 volts to the choke wire, it should only be energized when the key is in the run position.

[DiNka]

sounds like you need the choke "on" since there are so many vacuum leaks! Fix all the open vac ports and than you can get it to run properly. It should not harm the secondary to have the linage blocked, but you will have to make it work freely before we can know if the secondary even works. These carbs should have had a spacer under them already, I presume the engine/intake manifold/carb was as stock, the spacer has a built in heating element to prevent icing in cold weather. If yours is missing than yes, you will need to make one out of either plastic or aluminum.

You are throwing up too much at once, lets take it one system at a time. first get the spacer installed and than cap off all the open vac ports, from there we can work down the list. with the vac lines capped off you will than need to get 12 volts to the choke wire, it should only be energized when the key is in the run position.

Yeah I disabled the Vacuum to the choke as well so it will be ON all the time, the carb looks easy and better with out the stupid vacuum pumps, yeah I was told to make one off Wood other than metal its easier as well is that ok ?

[Petros]

not sure wood is a good idea (might leak air through it), plastic would be better, or soft aluminum would also be easy to work.

In the heat wood might also slowly loose its shape and compress, so the bolts would get loose.

[DiNka]

not sure wood is a good idea (might leak air through it), plastic would be better, or soft aluminum would also be easy to work.

In the heat wood might also slowly loose its shape and compress, so the bolts would get loose.

Alright got the spacer done now time to tune the idle can you tell me from a full tight mixture screw how many turns should I turn it anti clock wise to get the engine the best mixture ? (how many turns do you all do from full tight to loosening it) and Iam planing to change the timing on this engine it is idling rough :/

[dlb]

Alright got the spacer done now time to tune the idle can you tell me from a full tight mixture screw how many turns should I turn it anti clock wise to get the engine the best mixture ? (how many turns do you all do from full tight to loosening it)

like i mentioned before, there are tons of tutorials of this on the web. search google or whatever with "how to set mixture on 2 barrel carb" or something like that. there are plenty of vids of this on youtube.

[Petros]

you need to track down as many vac leaks as possible before you adjust the mixture. the old school way of setting mixture was to screw it in until it runs rough and wants to die, than count turns as you screw it out until it also runs rought, and screw back in exactly half way, or where it idles smoothest. the adjustment also affects mixture right off of idle, so if you drive it and there is a slight flat spot just as you push the throttle down, back it out a half turn. of course this will only work properly if there are no vac leaks, even a small vac leak will give it a flat spot. BTW, make sure the idle speed is set correct, the choke is fully open, and there is not too much tension in the throttle cable (the throttle is actually up against the idle speed adjuster).

good luck.

[DiNka]

Guess what the Solenoid was causing the idle issues all this time it didn't get the +12V from Battery . -_- Anyways atm I'm getting everything smooth as possible the spacer works like a charm all good and do I have to cap these 2 outputs on top of the head ?
http://i.imgur.com/HlZ16M7l.jpg[/img][/img]

And Have a look at the Video about a Grinding noise coming when clutch is released
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNP7FTuqZS0
(The Car is in Neutral Not in any gear )