Overheated. Won't start. Fearing the worst. Please help...

[Petros]

Not all of the emission control equipment is a bad thing, for example there is a device that shuts off the fuel supply when you down shift. It lower emissions and saves fuel, so it is a win-win. The EGR cycle exhaust gas into the intake manifold so it lowers the peak temperature in the combustion chamber (dilutes the income air fuel mixture with "inert" exhaust gases), but lowering the peak temps and pressures means less efficiency, less economy and less power out put. The device on the coolant outlet cuts off the vacuum advance during cruise conditions when the engine is within certain operating temperatures, this also lowers peak pressures and temperature in the combustion chamber, and reduces economy.

My approach to this stuff is if it works okay leave it, if it does work and it improves economy, I would repair or replace it. If it does not work and it reduces performance and economy, I remove it or bypass it.

[yotanewb]

Ok, so I'm bypassing most of the bad emissions components, but I'm still connecting most of the hoses and lines so I can use everything in the near future. I'm just getting hung up on a few spots. There are a few hose openings on the carb that I can't really interpret from the vac and fuel line diagrams. I'm hoping you guys can shed some light as to where I should connect them...

I've been trying to upload a picture but it's not working. But basically, I'm most worried about the big opening on the bottom of the carb, on the side closest to the engine valve cover. There are two places to connect hoses. One's smaller like regular vac lines, and the one below it is slightly bigger. Maybe fuel line? I'm kind of at a stand still now cause I don't want to try starting it without knowing what those openings are for...

And info would really help.

[yotanewb]

Petros- didn't see your last post until now. But I'm pretty much leaving most of the stuff in. It seemed to run fine before and it doesn't look like anything failed recently. probably been that way for years. But I am still pretty stumped by the openings I mentioned in my last post...

[Petros]

the larger hose on the side of the valve cover, comes off the base of the carb, plugs into the white plastic valve thing on the underside of the air cleaner housing. You have to plug it in when you install the airfilter by holding the housing low over the carb, but with enough room to get your hand under it to slip it on. this one is common to work loose and fall off while you are driving, you can either plug it off and ignore it. I put a small tie-wrap around the end of the hose and pull it just tight enough to add enough friction so it will not fall off. I think it controls the cold air intake butterfly, which I disabled on mine to take only cold air (the cold denser air give better fuel economy than heated air).

[dlb]

if you pull all that stuff out you might have to re-tune the carb a bit but that just means turning a couple of screws--no big deal.

[dlb]

I've been trying to upload a picture but it's not working.

some other people have trouble with this as well. i post all my pics on a photobucket account (any other server will also do) and then you just copy and paste the 'img' code into your post on here. works well for me. i use 600x800 pixels so they're not too huge.

But basically, I'm most worried about the big opening on the bottom of the carb, on the side closest to the engine valve cover. There are two places to connect hoses. One's smaller like regular vac lines, and the one below it is slightly bigger.

not sure without seeing pics but the big one might be for the PCV. the PCV port on the carb side is actually not part of the carb, it sits below it and is part of a black phenolic spacer that goes between the intake manifold and the carb. so if your port is way down low between the valve cover and carb and pretty fat, it's prob the PCV. otherwise, i'm not sure. i ripped all my emissions out so i have no idea about the other ones.

[yotanewb]

First of all, thanks to everyone for all the help. The car has been starting and running. The only problem now is that the carburetor is backfiring a bit when I let off the gas. Usually killing the car. I've noticed the choke kind of "clicks" into place (open) when I pull the throttle and I have to manually push it back to close it. It seems like the idle screw changes this effect but I haven't been able to find a spot where it functions smoothly... Hopefully more tweaking with other adjustments will help that?..

But also, like I mentioned before, the entire vac system is pretty shot. But I connected everything as it should because I plan on replacing parts in the near future. I was hoping this would "plug" the system since most of the components are jammed anyway, but I'm wondering if this is less effective then just plugging everything individually? I am a little worried that the TVSV could be leaking because it was broken and my fix was quick/cheap. Should I just take it out, plug the whole, and plug the tubes? It seems like the whole emissions system is optional, but I'm just curious if I might be in a middle ground between using and not using that might compromise performance.

As always any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for all the help!

[yotanewb]

On a side note, I eventually figured out that valve on the carb. It was the one for the air filter as you guys said. I finally figured it out after what seemed liked hours of searching for parts I might have missed or any openings on the engine. Needless to say, I felt a little dumb when I finally looked at the bottom of the air filter assembly. But thanks for not judging a pretty dumb question!

With that in mind, I feel I should mention how much I appreciate this site. I recently did some research on a Chevy S-10 I'm helping my friend work on and found a similar site for his truck. Nearly half of the posts I searched were completely unanswered and most of the rest were answered in a very condescending, demeaning tone. Really made me glad to have a Tercel and be a member of this site. Kudos and thanks to everyone here for that.

Although, I feel like I'm going to have to change my profile name soon because the more time I spend on here, and working on the car, the less I feel like a complete newb!

[dlb]

Nearly half of the posts I searched were completely unanswered and most of the rest were answered in a very condescending, demeaning tone.

i've found that as well. most auto forums tend to have snotty or unknowledgable users who are nowhere near as dedicated to the community of their vehicle as our users are. my love for the mighty terc has only increased due to the help of members here. my wife might hate that but i love it, and i think the fact new members keep commenting on how great this forum is is affirmation of my thoughts and feelings on it.

[Petros]

I think if you drive a Tercel4wd you are already feeling kind of intimidated and outclassed by just about every other car on the road (even by the lowly Kia!), so we can all identify and kind of emotionally bond together for the comfort of being in a group of other that drive the same geeky car.

OTOH, you clearly do not have a big ego if you drive a 25 year old Tercel! So no one on this list needs to demean others to make themselves feel Superior.

There is a joke about people that buy fancy new cars, they are "compensating" for some other serious shortcoming.

[ARCHINSTL]

OTOH, you clearly do not have a big ego if you drive a 25 year old Tercel! So no one on this list needs to demean others to make themselves feel Superior.

WHAT HE SAID !

There is a joke about people that buy fancy new cars, they are "compensating" for some other serious shortcoming.

"Oh, Muffy - whatever will I do? Will you still love a man who can't buy a new Hummer?"
Tom M.

[yotanewb]

There is a joke about people that buy fancy new cars, they are "compensating" for some other serious shortcoming.

Ha! I use that joke as a defense on an almost daily basis. My friends and roommates that still give me crap for my car get the same crap from me for their seemingly nicer cars. But I always win in the argument of functionality and utility. Not many of them can boast that they've moved furniture, climbed snowy mountains, towed trucks, and everything in between with their little cars. I love it. And for $550 I don't think I could have ever found a better vehicle.

But back to the topic at hand, I am still trying to get the car running smoothly. haha. I think everybody missed my first post about my problems and jumped right to the following post about how much I love this site.

It seems like the whole emissions system is optional, but I'm just curious if I might be in a middle ground between using and not using that might compromise performance.

and

the carburetor is backfiring a bit when I let off the gas. Usually killing the car

I'm going to be messing with it today and hope to get it running smoothly. Any advice?

ALSO, I pulled the valve cover and found that the oil looked diluted with water or coolant, or something. It might just have been left over solvents, water and other stuff from cleaning the block so I drained it and put some more oil in. I'm hoping I won't see the same mixture when I get back to work today. But I'll keep you all updated as I find out. IF it still looks like a milkshake does that mean the head gasket isn't sealed properly? I didn't put any sealant on it because I found a lot of different opinions on the topic, but I couldn't really find a definitive answer either way...

Either way, thanks again for all the help!

[Highlander]

Yup, if it still looks like milkshake after changing it, then you've got a coolant leak into the sump. The most likely candidate is a head gasket, the other candidate is a cracked block.

[Petros]

NEVER put sealant on a head gasket, in fact do not even handle the gasket or get it dirty at all before you install it. There is no other correct opinion, anyone that says to put sealant on a head gasket is just wrong. The only exception is a specially made custom all copper gasket, but not an OEM gasket.

There should not be coolant getting to the oil, as Highlander points out, likely source is the head gasket. Did you check the head for being flat? A new head gasket will not seal if both the head and top of the block are not flat. See my thread on head gasket replacement.

[yotanewb]

Highlander- That's what I figured. I hope it's just left over stuff from cleaning. I really don't think it's a cracked block. The engine was replaced a couple years ago and doesn't have a ton of miles on it.

Petros- Yeah, I followed your guide sanded the sh*t out of the head and block before putting in the gasket. Made sure both were completely flat and clean and never touched the gasket with dirty hands or anything. It seemed like putting sealant on it was a bad idea so I decided not to. I did however put in the grooves and extra holes in gasket. Is it possible I did it wrong and it messed up the seal? I have pictures I'll try to post.