Is there a secret...

[Snax]

Interesting point. I've always used the starter with crank bolts. Never thought of using it for axle nuts.

[ARCHINSTL]

Wouldn't that be "Reverse with left-side axle nuts and pipe to the rear" and "Forward with right-side axle nuts with pipe to the front" ?
I'd think this would be a real last-ditch method, though...
Tom M.

[sdoan]

I have removed and tightened axle nuts several times by putting the car in gear and setting the emergency brake and then braking the nut loose while the front wheel is on the ground. And then I read the manual

The FSM says to remove and install the nut while stepping on the brake pedal and the little light bulb went on 137 ft lbs is about double what the engine applies to the gears and bearings in the transaxle. Given the fragility of these transmissions it seems the only safe way to break that nut free and re-tighten it is to leave the car in neutral and have a helper step on the brakes, or remove the hub and axle assembly like Petros suggested and loosen it with an impact wrench.

[Tercel_jon]

Well guys thats how we got it off. Used an impact gun.

Thanks!


oh and I found out where I could get the dust shield that covers the bearing...$37 bucks at napa. and its a whole kit and everything.

adoan, these transmissions are fragile? Thats not what Iwanted to hear...how much horsepower/torque can they take before they grenade?

[Petros]

These tranny are actually pretty tough, they can handle no problem 100 hp/100ft-lb, more if you are gentle with them. The problem with the tranny and drive train is they are unique to this particular model of car, and they have not made any since 1987. So all the used ones will have the same amount of miles on them, and they just wear out in 200k to 300k miles (sometimes they last longer with good care). Getting new parts to rebuild them is getting more difficult (and costly). Some on this list, including me, have been stockpiling used trannys from Pull-A-part type wrecking yards just to have a source of parts for the future. Last I checked a rebuild kit costs about $450, and I can get a used tranny (by pulling it myself) from my local self-service yard for about $60, so having 2 or 3 extra trannys is cheaper than rebuilding it. If it has less than 200k miles showing on the odo, I will get it and store in my garage. One list member has six of them, I have two (plus one good one in my current dailly driver).

[takza]

I have removed and tightened axle nuts several times by putting the car in gear and setting the emergency brake and then braking the nut loose while the front wheel is on the ground. And then I read the manual

The FSM says to remove and install the nut while stepping on the brake pedal and the little light bulb went on 137 ft lbs is about double what the engine applies to the gears and bearings in the transaxle. Given the fragility of these transmissions it seems the only safe way to break that nut free and re-tighten it is to leave the car in neutral and have a helper step on the brakes, or remove the hub and axle assembly like Petros suggested and loosen it with an impact wrench.

If you use this method on the front pulley...it only loosens it...if you use it on the axle you CAN have it in the wrong gear and TIGHTEN it....not good.

[Tercel_jon]

Wow...I feel dumb. Never thought of putting it into gear to get it off. lol

[sdoan]

Wow...I feel dumb. Never thought of putting it into gear to get it off. lol

According to the FSM you are supposed to have a helper step on the brakes instead of putting it in gear - no load on the gears and bearings. So don't feel dumb, feel smart cause you didn't over stress anything in the tranny. I used to put it in gear, now I find helper to step on the brakes.

[takza]

Penetrant ....in 1st gear....wheel on ground...wheel(s) blocked?