Question about tercel distributors

[gmeddy]

wow. wish i could say the same

[Petros]

the Toyota FSM says to space the points rubbing block at .4mm, but that opens up the contacs on my points to about 1.5-2mm.
resulting in it pinging no even if i have it fully retarded!
i've had to close the points gap down to a more suitable gap.
I dont know if it's the aftermarkets points i've got that have a larger rubbing block or if the manuals wrong.

I grew up with points equipped cars and did a lot of tune ups on them, what you write does not make sense. Usually you measure the gap between the contact points when it is in the fully open position, not at the rubbing block (unless Toyota does something very different, but I doubt it). It should run with any reasonable sized gap, it just has to make contact and than have the contact broken as the shaft turns, this is what creates the high voltage spark. I seem to remember setting gap at 0.020-.030 inch (about 0.5-.76 mm).

You must reset the timing after you adjust the points, timing is always done after the new points are installed and adjusted. Any change in the gap of the points will result in a change in timing. You also have to regularly check both gap and timing to keep it in tune, because the rubbing block and the contact points wear, changing dwell and timing. I used to recheck it about once a month. Using rubbing block lube helped, but in a dusty environment it only delays the wear.

Good luck.

[keith]

I grew up on points too, I still have a dwell meter. Except that I remember the point gap, measured at the highest point on the cam, as being around 0.014 to 0.017", not .020-.030". The dwell angle was around 30° on v8's.

You can set the timing after adjusting the points by turning the engine to the initial timing mark, turn on the ignition, then rotate the distributor to the point that you get the spark across the gap. The timing will be perfect for idle. You still need a light to check the vacuum and mechanical advances.

[ARCHINSTL]

While a bit off-topic...how I remember the joy of removing the plugs and turning the crank of my many Minors mit my - hand crank. That tool really made turning the dizzy and setting the points EZ back in the Dark Ages...
And I also recall starting the car via the crank during an impecunious month when I could not afford a battery. Sigh...
Tom M.

[Petros]

I grew up on points too, I still have a dwell meter. Except that I remember the point gap, measured at the highest point on the cam, as being around 0.014 to 0.017", not .020-.030". The dwell angle was around 30° on v8's.

that might be true for a v8, but I always owned small 4 cyl import cars. I do not recall the dwell for my 4 cyl. cars, but it was certainly bigger than 30 deg. I never owned a V8 car until recently (last 10 years), and my opinion of them has not changed. But I did do a fair share of tune-ups on them when I was in school to help pay for my eduction.

You can set the timing after adjusting the points by turning the engine to the initial timing mark, turn on the ignition, then rotate the distributor to the point that you get the spark across the gap. The timing will be perfect for idle. You still need a light to check the vacuum and mechanical advances.

This works too, but I would still check the timing with a light. I did this when I had to remove a distributor and used this method to get it close enough to run, and check it with a light after it was running. It was usually pretty close.

[Highlander]

Dwell on 4 cylinders runs at around 40 degrees (0.014"-0.016" gap at highest point on the dist. cam)- just set the dwell on the bugeye last Sunday. I LOVE POINTS, They're so much easier to troubleshoot- that's how I bought my bugeye Sprite so cheap, they couldn't figure out how to get spark to the plugs.

[mister.highwaystar]

I have an 1987 Toyota Tercel SR5

The engine has good compression and the manual 5 or 6 speed is in good condition.

Question: The vehicle attempts to start, I do get spark at times. Even drove it for a few times, yet then it would not start afterwards. A friendly Toyota buff with seven of these things, beleives the problem is in the coil. I have found the 12v wire feeding power into the distributor. But how is ground supplied to the coil or distributor?

[keith]

You really should have started a new post, but I'm not the internet police and I will try to help.

Before you do much troubleshooting, remove the distributor cap and the rotor. then turn the engine until one of the vanes on the distributor shaft is directly across from the vertical rib on the ignitor. Now slip a .010 feeler gauge in the gap, it should just fit with a slight drag. If there is still a gap, push on the shaft in the direction toward closing the gap and see if it closes. Basically, if you can move the shaft back and forth enough to see the gap grow and shrink, then your center shaft bearing is shot.

If you can find a good machine shop, you might be able to replace the bushing or knurl the existing body, but in most cases, the best thing to do is get a remanufactured distributor. Everything comes with it, but it will run $200+. What you don't want to do is buy all the parts, one at a time and then discover the bushing is bad. You can't take the used parts back. Been there, done that.

[takza]

While a bit off-topic...how I remember the joy of removing the plugs and turning the crank of my many Minors mit my - hand crank. That tool really made turning the dizzy and setting the points EZ back in the Dark Ages...
And I also recall starting the car via the crank during an impecunious month when I could not afford a battery. Sigh...
Tom M.

My first car...a TR2...had a crank...though I never got to use it. Went thru a hole in the radiator.

Did some cranking on an old Farmall tractor though...no starter...it didn't get any use in the winter. Had to watch that kickback if you didn't want a broken arm.