Hello all

[drege]

Yea sorry the blazer, shoulda givin it to you goddolovem, you'd have had fun with it in them hills - after gutting all that emissions crap and carbing it.

[Gottolovem]

I dont need another car you saw my yard

[drege]

Well least I can be done with S10 forums, buncha damn trolls and asshats over there.
blowby I feel is normal - not truly blowby, just normal crank case pressure, the cap unscrewed just tilts over, it don't blow off like by regal would.
I had a 81 buick regal T-type i killed when I was 18 by fiddling with it too much, least I learned alot about cars, too bad it was a T-type and not a ford torus.

[drege]

Failed smog, 141 of 100 @15 MPH
Guy said it is the timing or plugs, but I just replaced the plugs.
Least its not running rich or evap fail.

[Gottolovem]

check your timing 5 degrees with the vac line plugged or it won't pass.
then adjusted to 10 degrees after it passes it'll run a little better.

[drege]

Called guy at smog shop he asked if it was manual steering I told him no, he said idle needs to be 800 RPM, I said uh-uh FSM says 950 in two places; ignition timing under IG chapter and technical specifications in the back.
Timing was about 8.5° BTDC put it down to 5° idles 950 steady, FSM says 13° w/ advance vac line connected. it was on or about that after I adjusted it with vac line disconnect.
Thinking about gettin wires and cap/rotor but dang thing should pass with out them . . . I guess.

EDIT: also I only have 2/3 hoses on the advance diaphram, the other port on the metal disk had a factory style plug on it.
Any ideas about that situation?

[Gottolovem]

My smog guy will tug on the steering wheel to drag down the rpm when its high the power steering unit drags RPM's down.
I doubt they would do that in California unless you know the guy.

[drege]

http://www.gizoogle.net/index.php
Say what? I'm top notch now?

[drege]

Went for retest, dude pointed out 800RPM under the hood, adjusted the idle screw in the parking lot, idles 800, timing set 5°BTDC, new NGK plugs only a month old, still failed. 81/82 and 107/100 over yesterday's 141/100.
All I can think of is replace the wires and cap, unless someone can think of any thing better - I got about 30 days to make it pass or I'll have to non OP it.

[Gottolovem]

New oil will help
And I would get the catalytic converter really hot so it's working well during the test.

Doesn't CA. have a program where if you spend a certain amount of money on parts to get it to pass they let it slide for a year? The idea is if you keep buying emissions parts eventually it will pass.

[Petros]

So close!, it should not take much to make it pass.

you might try doing a de-carbon treatment with seafoam to clean out any build up on the pistons. You fill the cyclinders with seafoam, (I have heard gumout also works), let it soak over night, crank it to clear any liquid still in it, and replace the spark plugs and start it. it will smoke and sputter as it clears out the carbon, but will eventually run good. this will lower the compression slightly and lower emissions.

Put premium fuel in it for the test. And there is also a gasoline additive that is supposed to help you pass the test. One I heard called "Guaranteed to Pass". I like the name if nothing else, worth a try.

you might go through the emissions section of the service manual and see which components or parts of the fuel and emissions system controls that emission, and double check all of those systems to verify they are in good working condition, no vac leaks, etc.

[irowiki]

DEfinitely agree with getting the cat converter nice and hot, like drive it at least 30-45 minutes first.

[drege]

gotolovem/irowiki: Yea I took a 10 mile 3000RPM drive on the highway decelerating through all gears on exiting to compression scrub the valves and populate the cat.

I read something like $450 or more in smog licensed technician work (put it in a shop)
in the last 300 miles the plugs and oil has been changed, PVC and something else, I forget now.
Maybe I should check the spark intensity and recheck my plugs +/- look at cap interior and rotor, I've never opened the distributor.
I've tried to touch as little as possible on this thing cause in my experience the more you mess about with these engine peripherals the more stuff fails.

To petros: wouldn't excessive compounds compression blown into the cat degrade its performance?
I seem to remember reading somewhere to put water down the intake for my blazer, I did it and it passed well under the limits witch was surprising cause it alwase ran like shit.

[irowiki]

10 miles isn't enough. We're talking 30-50 miles here.

As a rule, any tercel I get, gets new plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and distributor rotor. It all helps tremendously in how they run. No emissions here though so I can't relate.

[Gottolovem]

When i say get it hot I mean above 4 grand for 20 min or more 4th gear @70 mph
As petros said your close and his suggestion is spot on get a cleaner for the carbon buildup.

MAN I HATE SMOG S**T