New member from Portland, OR - '86 Tercel Wagon DLX

[Petros]

has the heavy understeer become worse, or not change?

Sounds like it might be worth doing, with some improvement to the rear bar as well (lots of soft rubber to replace on the rear too).

[GotToyota?]

Is there a rear bar on the 2WD's as well or just the 4WD's? I don't think I've noticed it if there is one.

I think the understeer has slightly improved. It's tough to say because I also got an alignment at the same time and before my wheel was way off.

[GotToyota?]

So I have issues getting it to run correctly. Fresh (or newer) carb, cap, rotor, plugs and wires are all new.

Adjusted the idle, fast idle and TP according to the service manual. Vacuum lines are all replaced, connected properly. I thought it was ok when I adjusted everything earlier but now it's running like crap.

I replaced my broken TVSV with a new one, or rather tried two from Pick-N-Pull and it hasn't seemed to remedy anything. I'm becoming very frustrated. What else could it be? Fuel pump? Bogs and hesitates under acceleration.

[Petros]

that is usually from a vac leak, which appears you eliminated some of the components that could cause that, but there are more. If you are confident the items you replaced are working properly, than clearly it has to be somewhere else. Every item under the hood that has a vac line going to it could cause a vac leak. you have to check each of those items; the HAC, the distributor vac advance, the power brake booster, teh EBVT, the EGR, the AAP, the charcoal canister. You might try removing each of the vac lines from those items one at a time, and blocking them off to see if that solves it. You just have to work through each commonness. Also, did you check for vac leak where the manifold bolts to the side of the head? these bolts work loose sometimes from the temperature cycling.

less common, but sometimes a weak spark can cause a low speed stumble and hesitation, so after you eliminate the possibility of a vac leak you might check out the components of the ignition system.

[dlb]

GT, does it bog and hesitate at acceleration all the time or just when it's cold or warmed up? also, does it bog and hesitate on both hard and soft acceleration or just one or the other?

did you test the TVSV from the wrecker? i just tested the one on my project car and it never reaches the 3rd and final stage so it's f-d. i'm joining the crowd on the forum looking for a new one.

[GotToyota?]

Seems to bog when cold and warm. Mostly on hard acceleration. I can granny drive it ok most of the time.

I've tried 3 different junkyard TVSV's and the issue hasn't gotten any better. I've double checked all the rubber, it's connected all correctly and all new. I'm gonna try one or two more valves and see what happens.

[dlb]

i'm dealing with a similar issue right now and the next place i'm going to look is the EGR. if the EGR valve is not sealing, it will leak exhaust gas into the intake manifold at all temps. the way to disable the EGR is to remove the 19mm banjo bolt from the manifold end of the EGR pipe. it's a little difficult to get at and always extremely rusted so spray lots of penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a day or two. then use a 19mm socket and breaker bar with a cheater pipe and bounce on it a bit. be careful to hold the socket firmly on the bolt so that you don't strip it. then replace it with a regular bolt of the same size. this will prevent any exhaust gases from reaching the EGR. i'll be doing this soon myself.

[GotToyota?]

I've also realized that today the idle has been fluctuating quite a bit and sometimes dying when coming to a stop, however there is also a grinding noise coming from my alternator and my headlights are fading pretty badly.

So now I think the alternator is going out. I'm going to test the vacuum leaks soon, have it running and spray starting fluid on the lines.

I'll try that EGR trick too.

[GotToyota?]

So just to make sure we're on the same page, this is the bolt we're talking about?

[ARCHINSTL]

Just get a bolt sized 20x1.50mm - and also use some shallow washers when installing in the manifold threaded hole.
I believe others have used transmission drain plugs?
Tom M.

[GotToyota?]

Good info, thanks!

Got the bolt out. Gonna make a run to the hardware store tomorrow.

[GotToyota?]

Do you also need to cap the lines going to and from the EGR valve?

[Gottolovem]

Get that alternator issue resolved does your car have the external voltage regulator or internal (inside the alternator) look on the inside of the fender next to the battery is there a small box with wires running to it. If so that's the external voltage regulator if not it's inside the alternator. Use a tester and check voltage if you don't have a tester start it and disconnect the battery if it dies the alternator is likely shot thats not a sure fire test though,most parts stores will test for free.

Poor electric power can cause many problems i would get that sorted out first.

[dlb]

Do you also need to cap the lines going to and from the EGR valve?

no. theoretically, replacing the banjo bolt with a regular one makes the EGR circuit a closed system. this way, the EGR valve can open and close all it wants but there is no source of exhaust or ambient air to leak through it.

if the bolt trick fixes your problem you might consider a few options. you could replace the EGR valve (expensive but better for the environment and arguably better for proper running of the engine due to exhaust gases decreasing peak ignition temps in the combustion chambers), removing and deleting the entire EGR setup (frees up a bunch of useless space in the engine bay and eliminates further vac leak possibilities), or you could just leave it with a standard bolt in place of the banjo one. i'm not sure which route i'll go, if this even works for my problem.

Just get a bolt sized 20x1.50mm - and also use some shallow washers when installing in the manifold threaded hole.
I believe others have used transmission drain plugs?
Tom M.

i remember splatterdog mentioning this so i tried using some spare terc trans drain plugs but they were not big enough. oh well, i'll run to the hardware store.

Get that alternator issue resolved does your car have the external voltage regulator or internal (inside the alternator) look on the inside of the fender next to the battery is there a small box with wires running to it. If so that's the external voltage regulator if not it's inside the alternator. Use a tester and check voltage if you don't have a tester start it and disconnect the battery if it dies the alternator is likely shot thats not a sure fire test though,most parts stores will test for free.

Poor electric power can cause many problems i would get that sorted out first.

agreed that using a multimeter is best for testing battery and alt but failing that, my general approach is this: if the car dies slowly over the course of a day or a week, getting gradually harder to crank and with lower electrical output, the alternator is the problem. the battery is not getting charged and you are slowly draining it. but if the car needs a jump to start but is fine once it's running, the battery is the problem. in this case, the battery closes the circuit so the car runs fine but it does not hold enough charge to start the car.

if the lights just get a bit dim at idle but brighten up once the rpm come up, that is normal to some degree since the alternator is putting out more power at higher rpm. if the lights are REALLY dim at idle and there are other symptoms (ie, rough/dies at idle, slow to crank), i would say the battery is not holding much of a charge and is probably due for replacing.

[GotToyota?]

So I managed to find a bolt to plug the EGR. Now do I have to cap the valve lines as well?

Also, I had the local auto parts store check my battery and alternator. Both are good.