edit 2: found a clear description of why double clutching is necessary in transmissions without synchros:
"Neutral disengages the input of the gear box from the output of the gear box. The clutch disengages from the flywheel of the engine, before the gear box. The point of double clutching is to speed up the input of the gear box to match the output of the gear box. Speeding up the engine will not speed up the input shaft of the gear box if the clutch is disengaged from the engine."
Ordered timkin seals from autozone, the input shaft seal compared to the one I've had in my pocket perfectly, but when I checked the CV axel seals one was in a sealed bag within the box, the other was free floating inside the box, I removed the one from the plastic and compaired them - they weren't even the same goddamn seals, one said koyo one said TT and they had totaly diffrent thicknesses and no dirt ring, wrong diameter, just wrong!
So this weekend I'll drain, drop, refill and reinstall my tranny again with this new seal in it supposing I don't find some other explenation for this incessant leaking.
It takes more fossil fuel resources to produce new vehicles than it would take to maintain and fuel any 70's or 80's vehicle for a million miles.
Front/input shaft seal replacement successful.
Just life as usual here with Kodama (the cars name - case how the muffler rattles like the kodama head's in princess mononoke, and cause it's white)
Thinking about slowly swapping LED lights into it, so I don't have to pull my dash/gauge cluster apart - anybody know the bulb style?
I want to start with the interior bulbs then gradually LED the exterior too.
Anyone have experience with LED running lights/brake/blinkers? better to get resistors or LED low impedance flasher module for these cars?
What about LED 9005 head light bulbs? like these http://www.amazon.com/Classy-Autos-Suba ... 5+led+bulb Would they be bright enough?
It takes more fossil fuel resources to produce new vehicles than it would take to maintain and fuel any 70's or 80's vehicle for a million miles.
i'm a huge princess mononoke fan. for me, it's on par with akira as the best anime ever, and definitely in my top 10 films list. really powerful stuff. most of the studio ghibli stuff is, at the very least, pretty good.
do a search on here for LEDs. the forum search tool doesn't recognize LED so use this search method instead.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit." T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." Mark Twain
Yea I have a LED dome as my boss had me put new LED trailer lights on his dump trailer but he's got the lic plate riveted to the door cause other guys were knocking it off at the dump, so the 4 bulb white strip for the lic plate illumination I pulled out and graphed it into the dome light receptacle, though my cover don't fit over it, so I'm down to replace it when its feasible.
First and cheapest I'm going to sew some leather boots for my shifters though, maybe they'll come out well and some other people would like some custom hand sewn leather boots for their terc's.
Hard to find grey leather laying around to match my interior colors though; mine is black/navy blue/grey.
Wish I had took pictures of the custom work I did on my audi, it was really something special, I had done the shifter and door panels with red leather with white leather accent piping cause the cloth had deteriorated and the seats I got for it were red, I kick myself for getting rid of that car every day just about.
It takes more fossil fuel resources to produce new vehicles than it would take to maintain and fuel any 70's or 80's vehicle for a million miles.
I take it you found the link for the patterns for the boots? A vendor is also mentioned.
Tom M.
T4WD augury?
"Oh, do not ask, 'What is it?' Let us go and make our visit." T.S. Eliot - "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock"
"Now and then we had a hope that, if we lived and were good, God would permit us to be pirates." Mark Twain
I made patterns from the tattered remains of the old ones, which weren't really that bad, just thread bare and the 4wd shifter had a tear in it.
They are just rubberized cloth, prone to age worse than genuine leather.
It takes more fossil fuel resources to produce new vehicles than it would take to maintain and fuel any 70's or 80's vehicle for a million miles.
Thinking about vacationing to north central oregon from the bay area in Kodama, 1020 miles round trip with up to 200 miles excess for off route excursion for sight seeing. Know this is a thought answered elsewhere, what is a likely main three part failure? I seem to have read distributor and CV axels. I'd like to say I'd probably not be doing alot of offroading but it is oregon after all, there is a lot more dirt road access possible than the here in the central bay area, the lava river tube outside of bend and crater lake, from what I remember from when I was a kid it was mostly paved, but we know what its like when you see a mystery dirt road, something calls to you and you want to drive down it like a fatal attraction.
Tl;Dr might drive to oregon, what would I want to have with me in case?
It takes more fossil fuel resources to produce new vehicles than it would take to maintain and fuel any 70's or 80's vehicle for a million miles.
I always carry spares of anything that could leave me stranded: a distributor assembly complete can be swapped out if there is any of its internal parts in question, a fuel pump (though those are kind of rare to fail), an alternator, some fuel hose, belts and rad hoses. Perhaps a thermostat and gasket. everything else you can limp home on, rare to throw an axle (just make sure you start out with good ones), or have a clutch fail without warning. even if the battery goes bad (I have had it happen where a cell fails), or the starter fails (rare) you can usually push start a manual trans Tercel. Bad carb will usually still run, and you can buy pass heaters or vac operated equipment. Just make sure you start out with a good clutch (try the clutch test, it passes it will be good for a very long time)
On longer cross country trips I also carry a head gasket and the tools I need to replace it. I have had to do this on about half of my longer trips with just bought or unknown Tercels. You usually can drive it a while on a bad head gasket, but you have to keep stopping to add water and if driving more than a few hundred miles it becomes a real nuisance and can lead to doing more serious damage to the head. You can avoid the risk of needing to replace a head gasket if you 1) know your have a good head gasket (a compromised one can be driven on for over a year and your only clue is that you have to add coolant every once in a while) a compression test will not tell you if it has been compromised, 2) put in a new double row radiator if your is in question or older than 10 years, 3)put in a new water pump if older than 5 years, 4) install new radiator hoses and heater hoses if older than 5 years or unknown, 5) install a new high quality thermostat (made in USA or Japan, not made by communists).
I have decided on all future Tercel I buy I will at a min replace the thermostat (too many go bad after sitting around and not being driven), and any questionable hoses, or any single row radiator. these items have caused me to have to replace head gaskets on long trips, a preemptive replacement would have saved a lot of road side repairs in the middle of a trip.
Sheesh, I priced a dist and half shafts today and I think I'll pass.
Did oil change and plug replacement today however, replaced my broken headlight retainer ring with one from a toyota corrola in p'n'p, Think I'll disasemble the headlight shade that has the JBweld on it and remove the epoxy and use something clear rather than try and track down a used headlight lens.
Autozone has dist for $230 over oriley's $250, but thats without the rotor/cap/coil.
I'm just not financially able to buy what-if parts like that, sad but true.
Also whats the little black box behind the glove box with the little knob on it stamped R.P.M.? Does it do what it says under some special circumstance; I've turned it this way and that and it never seemed to really ever change anything.
And my FSM says trasn/dif takes 3.5 qts gear oil, is it possible you all are wrong? was 4qts too much?
It takes more fossil fuel resources to produce new vehicles than it would take to maintain and fuel any 70's or 80's vehicle for a million miles.
The box is the A/C thermostat thingy.
Never buy a remanufactured distributor from O'Reilly or anywhere else they suck.
Get an oem one off of a pic&pull car they last and last for around 50 bucks they're very reliable it's good to have an extra.
And no were not all wrong the tranny holds a gallon of gear oil
you can not buy a new distributor, they are all remanufactured and all of them are junk right out of the box. do not waste your money on a "new" distributor. go to pick and pull and find a wrecked corrolla or Tercel with 4ac or 3ac and get the distributor. If it was wrecked it was likely running when it happened, hence the assumption of a working distributor. A well used factory distributor is far more reliable than a remanufactured "new" one. they last for a very long time, so just get a good used one as a spare.
There is no reason to buy new axles as spares, even if they click and thump, they will still last you many thousands of miles, before they actually fail. I drove a clunkly pair of cv axles just to see how bad they will get before they actually break. I drove it for over a year of hard driving and I finally replaced them because they became too much trouble to drive (annoying load clunking), but they never failed. Your axles are likely okay to keep using, if you should completely fail an axle you can put it in 4wd and still drive it home.
