Starting problem with AE95 All-trac wagon.

[Mattel]

Hi all, I have a starting issue with my all trac wagon with a fuel injected 4afe engine

If I leave the car for a week without starting (I only use my car on weekends) it won't start.

If the car has been running for an hour after a long drive and I try and start it it starts intermittently.

however if I just use it for a short 10km run or something it will start straight up first time.

In both situations there the engine doesn't turn over. there is nothing. it seems like the brushes on the starter motor are burned out or stuck (this one was tested a couple of months ago before it was put into the car but has the same issues as the last) . i.e. the ignition lights go on. all electrical works but there is nothing but a faint hum.

To get it starting I push it a little bit out of its parking spot (slight incline) put it in gear (manual) and take the clutch out. Like a push or hill start but without the momentum and it just seems to jig the starter to restart. I then repeat after a few goes to start. However it takes a few goes and is annoying. sometimes it works better if I turn off all aux like fans, radio, cig lighter charger etc.

When it does start it seems flooded and takes a couple of seconds to cough and then is ok

I have changed the Battery twice, The alternator, the starter motor with a secondhand one.

unsure. I think there maybe a couple of issues. perhaps a bad earth. perhaps starter motor getting to hot?

Any ideas would be appreciated. sick of trying to park on hills!

cheers, Matt

[Ridlbox]

Sounds like you have a slight parasitic drain check wires for shorts you probably have a split wire somewhere. Another thing to check would be your ground cables make sure your grounds all have good connection, I had this problem for almost a full year couldn't figure it out turned out I just had oxidized ground cables

[rer233]

When it won't crank, are you getting 12v. at the small wire on the starter? I'm not sure where the starter is located on the AE95 (think it's on the back side of the engine??) If you've got 12v and no crank, it HAS to be the starter. If that's the case, usually on Toyota starters the solenoid contacts (available separately) is the culprit.

Good Luck!

[larry mcgrath]

Matt try wiring a remote starter switch directly to the starter solonid , that way you can determin if its the car wireing or starter Larry

[Ridlbox]

Matt try wiring a remote starter switch directly to the starter solonid , that way you can determin if its the car wireing or starter Larry

I didn't think of that that would be a way of eliminating some of the others

[Petros]

we have this problem with my wife's MPV, since it is auto trans we have to keep trying the key until it starts because it will not roll start.

Somewhere in the system there is a weak contact, it makes connection when it is cold, but after it warms up the contact is unreliable/weak. Everything in the start circuit is suspect: earth/ground, connections and contacts. that is starter switch, solenoid, trans or clutch interlock, all wiring contacts, all grounds, etc. I have changed the starter and solenoid (big job in the MPV, hard to reach, not it), changed the ignition switch (not), battery and checked all the major contacts. Only thing left is the neutral lock out on the trans. The neutral lock out will not allow it to start when in drive. You would not that would not have that on a manual trans car, but you would have a clutch interlock at the top of the clutch pedal to check. I am thinking of by passing the trans interlock on the MPV as a test, since that is easier than replacing it (also a pia to reach).

[Mattel]

Thanks guys, That gives me a bit to go on for now. Thanks for that - I know you love a challange!

I will try and look at all the connections and ground cables. The main ones near the battery seem OK and are firmly connected perhaps I should take them off and clean/sand them and then put them back. My Dad used petroleum jelly on the to contacts to stop corrosion. Not sure what you would recommend?. Also, maybe remove some of the fuses one by one when I leave it over night to check for parasitic drain?

I will also try the remote starter. Larry - when you say remote is that just rigging up a cable from the positive terminal to the correct contact on the starter? I have a jumper cable lead - could I use that or is there some other cable I should use?

Petros, If I try start the car in gear.(when it feels like starting) it will jump forward and try to start in gear. so maybe it doesn't have a clutch interlock.

Thanks again

[Ridlbox]

I will also try the remote starter. Larry - when you say remote is that just rigging up a cable from the positive terminal to the correct contact on the starter? I have a jumper cable lead - could I use that or is there some other cable I should use? 

Remote starter is a fairly simple tool to make, essentially a large power button with two pieces of wire and clamps the end, you clamp 1 into the power on your battery run into the starter solenoid and press button

[Petros]

sounds like you do not have a clutch interlock. those were required on all cars in USA after about 1985. None of my early cars have them, I find them a nuance on the later ones. No matter now, manual trans cars are almost non-existent on new models now.

get one of those battery terminal wire bushes (they do not cost much), and give both the inside of the clamp and the outside of the terminal a good wire brushing. You can also do this with sand paper but the special brush makes it easy to get clean surfaces. I have tried various things to prevent corrosion on battery terminals, including a purple spray from the autoparts store (seems to help). Petroleum jelly is really old school, not sure it really works (my dad used to do that). the best way is to just clean them once a year or so.

[Mattel]

Good information. Thanks all. am looking at remote starters.

[Mattel]

Good information. Thanks all. am looking at remote starters.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-REMOTE-S ... 2ee5372b17 something like this OK?

I have been cleaning with a wire brush as well. Currently can only locate the major negative battery terminal to chassis lead. will have a more thorough look soon.

[Ridlbox]

That's the correct tool I usually find them at O'Reilly's or autozone