Engine Rebuild Questions!

[4wdEconoBox]

Alright, heck yeah, that works! And I'll probably end up doing the head and block myself also!

And ok, I was just wondering, because we have a whole can of the stuff lying around somewhere! haha, but I'll pick some up tomorrow probably.
Would it be helpful if I used that copper head gasket spray on the head gasket or does it make a difference? We have a can of it lying around somewhere also that I could use if it'll help.

Do you happen to know what size bolts I need to mount it to the engine stand? I should drive by a Fastenal tomorrow, so it'd be great to get them while I'm near one!

[jimcrazy]

the bolts for the top are m12x1.25, I needed 3 1/4" long for my stand so cut the head off 2 old bolts and welded a 1/2 bolt to them to get the length needed. the bottom just used 3/8 threaded rod and nuts on both sides. my 4a to put in some day

[4wdEconoBox]

Alright, thanks so much man!! I always try to have most of the things I need before I pull an engine, I always end up forgetting something, but I may luck up one of these days hahaha!

[4wdEconoBox]

Alright, so I got the engine pulled and disassembled today! I'm pretty stoked! The crank journals look good, I still need to clean it really good and feel of it to check for scoring. I think I can get away with hand polishing it at home!! The cylinder walls definitely need bored, #1 and #2 cylinders look pretty good, and I can still see the original honing patterns in those cylinders! Cylinders #3 and #4 are scored up pretty bad, so good call on telling me to order oversized pistons and rings! The pistons from those 2 cylinders seem much looser also, there is a good bit of play in the pins. Those where the cylinders that kept fouling out the plugs too!

I have a few questions!

I seen in the FSM that these engines use select-a-fit bearings... The numbers on my block are 2-2-1-2, is it going to make a difference that the bearings I have are just regular STD size? Or do I need to get those select-a-fits?

Whats the easiest way to clean all of the dirt and oil and grime from the engine bay and all of the parts?

The flywheel looks glazed over, whats the best way to get it ready for a new clutch and pressure plate? Should I get it resurfaced like how you do a brake rotor, or would some sand paper work just as good?

When I repaint the engine bay, what kind of paint should it get? Engine enamel or just some decent high heat paint?

I've also got some questions about removing some emissions equipment too, but I'll make a new thread for that.

[dlb]

I've also got some questions about removing some emissions equipment too, but I'll make a new thread for that.

there are lots of threads on this already so do a search first. the long and short of it is that not much can be disabled without creating various rough running situations.

[4wdEconoBox]

I'm sorry about that, I've looked a couple times before, but I went and looked again and found a thread I had never seen before, which told me pretty much what I need to know, I'm going to remove the EGR components since mine don't work, and I'm in Alabama, so no emissions test for me!! One thing that I can't seem to find anything about is the air suction equipment. Can I remove all of that? Or would it be detrimental?

[4wdEconoBox]

Ohh, and I just thought of another question, where do you get plastigage at?

[4wdEconoBox]

One more thing I just thought of, has anyone ever relocated the main fuse box under the hood to somewhere else? Say to the glove box or the trunk? I know it wouldn't be easy, but I think it would be worth it!

[irowiki]

Emissions thread, recent:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11380

In short most of it needs to stay unless you get a Weber.

A Weber can be a whole new can of worms though.

[Mark]

One more thing I just thought of, has anyone ever relocated the main fuse box under the hood to somewhere else? Say to the glove box or the trunk? I know it wouldn't be easy, but I think it would be worth it!

I think the idea of that fuse box is to have the fuse protection as close to the battery as possible. If a wire loses it's insulation and starts grounding out and sparking against, for example, the engine block or the firewall metal, the fuse will blow and block the electric current from reaching the worn, arcing area. If the fuse is in the trunk and the fuse blows, the worn wire in the engine compartment will still be grounded out and arcing.

[4wdEconoBox]

Thanks for that link ironwiki! It's still missing one piece of information that I can't seem to find. Can I remove the air suction equipment haha?!?! If I can, what all can I remove and cap/plug?

And I have never thought about that Mark.... It makes perfect sense now though....haha

[irowiki]

Not sure why you'd remove it. But Mark capped it off at the converter

[4wdEconoBox]

Its really for convenience honestly, so it won't be in the way...And I'm trying to tidy up and clean up the engine bay for looks! Like I said, I'm painting the bay and it don't want that ugly thing just chilling there if its not really helping or doing much, ya know? I like my engine bays clean enough to eat off of haha!

[irowiki]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it, in my opinion.

[4wdEconoBox]

Yeahhhh, I know! I've just always liked to test boundaries! Since there isn't much in the way of performance upgrades for these cars, the only other way for me to test these boundaries is to do aesthetic mods! You've got to understand, I'm young, I'm trying to make this car as cool as I possibly can! haha I know it isn't everyones cup of tea, but thats just how I roll!