Wanted/ISO ideas: A few hard to find parts for '86 SR5

[emilyrobin]

Hey there. My poor little dude is in the shop until I can find (or help my mechanic find) these parts:

- Harmonic balancer (rubber has come apart and is making a crazy rattle)
- Differential oil seal (FRONT, not sure where exactly)
- Water pump O-ring (persistent coolant leak)

Any ideas? My mechanic is grumbling about how hard to find these parts are as most of them are discontinued, and her hubby isn't going to the pick-and-pull anytime soon...so it might be a bit of a wait. I'm willing to sit it out until I find the right parts. Anyone have some spare parts laying around that might work for The Burrito?

Also my key doesn't work in the front passenger lock; troubleshooting tips? For a long time I thought my hatch just wouldn't lock; one MIRACLE day it finally turned left with my key in it so I can officially lock my car now But it would be "nice" to use my key in the passenger door once in a while.

I've noticed a lot of you live in the Pacific NW; if you're reasonably close to Portland, OR (read: less than 50 miles) I could maybe arrange a parts voyage. And I would love to pick your brain(s) about any helpful Terc 4wd resources (parts, shops, etc.) in this neck of the woods.

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Emily

[irowiki]

You mean the water bypass tube oring?

96711-24013 is the toyota part number. http://www.midatlantictoyotaparts.com/o ... 9671124013

Which diff seal?

[dlb]

emily, for the lock you should try spraying PB blaster in the lock and turning the key back and forth a few times. that's all most of the sticky lock cylinders i've encountered have required.

the harmonic balancer should be easy to find, especially with this forum. there are tons of junk 3a engines lying around so i'm sure someone on here will get you one quickly.

for the diff seal, i just use silicone goop. i think the grey or black permatex stuff is good for trans and diff seals. way easier than tracking down paper gaskets, and probably cheaper.

someone else posted about the water pump bypass tube o-ring recently. you don't need to go to toyota for this, any generic o-rings that fit will work. here is the thread.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10060&p=74684

[Gottolovem]

Sounds to me that your mechanic Just likes to grumble the seal and the o ring is still available.The harmonic balancer i have one.

Exactly what rear seal? Is the leak at the rear axle or the transmission?
I have a mountain of spare parts however seals should be purchaced new there inexpensive and you run the risk of replacing with another bad seal when you swap used for used parts.

There is a seal in the rear called the pinion seal part #223542 at auto zone.
As dlb states the rear paper gasket should be replaced with gasket maker goop(permatex)
If your mechanic is grumbling to you over not being able to find the paper gasket(oil seal)and does not have permatex for situations exactly like this FIND ANOTHER MECHANIC he does not want to work on your car or he is a dumb a**!

There is another member in your area that might be able to assist you but it's not my place to offer him up i'm sure he will chime in soon enough if he wants to help out.

good luck if you need a balancer let me know

I would get a second opinion from another mechanic (an old school mechanic if you can find one)

[marlinh]

Water pump o ring is probably the one behind the pump housing that bolts to the block. You can order the exact o ring from the dealer or match it from a kit. If it is that o ring, the bypass tube will be disturbed as well, so it would be a good idea to replace them too.

[Petros]

rockauto.com has had every seal I have ever needed for the Tercel4wd, even the transmission seals.

they do not list a harmonic balancer for the 3ac in the Tercel, but they do list one for the 4ac in the same year corrolla, the crank is identical so it seems the 4ac front pully/balancer should work. kind of pricey, might be better to go for a used one. they are pretty durable so used ones are a good bet.

See it here: DAYCO Part # PB1290N price $178.

as far as the locks, they not only wear but they also get dust and gunk in them so they stick. You might try spraying some carb cleaner solvent in the lock and wiggle the key around (in and out), and than put in the PB Blaster. But to keep dust from sticking I would suggest either graphit or teflon spray dry lock lubricant rather than the PB Blaster. that usually works to free it up.

[emilyrobin]

You mean the water bypass tube oring?

96711-24013 is the toyota part number. http://www.midatlantictoyotaparts.com/o ... 9671124013

Which diff seal?

I wish I had more information to give you! I'll find out more once I get to look at my car (at the shop until I can get a harmonic balancer in there).

[emilyrobin]

someone else posted about the water pump bypass tube o-ring recently. you don't need to go to toyota for this, any generic o-rings that fit will work. here is the thread.

https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10060&p=74684

Thanks dlb! I actually read that thread already and got some ideas

[emilyrobin]

Sounds to me that your mechanic Just likes to grumble the seal and the o ring is still available.The harmonic balancer i have one.

Exactly what rear seal? Is the leak at the rear axle or the transmission?
I have a mountain of spare parts however seals should be purchaced new there inexpensive and you run the risk of replacing with another bad seal when you swap used for used parts.

There is a seal in the rear called the pinion seal part #223542 at auto zone.
As dlb states the rear paper gasket should be replaced with gasket maker goop(permatex)
If your mechanic is grumbling to you over not being able to find the paper gasket(oil seal)and does not have permatex for situations exactly like this FIND ANOTHER MECHANIC he does not want to work on your car or he is a dumb a**!

There is another member in your area that might be able to assist you but it's not my place to offer him up i'm sure he will chime in soon enough if he wants to help out.

good luck if you need a balancer let me know

I would get a second opinion from another mechanic (an old school mechanic if you can find one)

I said rear but it's actually the FRONT differential with a leak.

I wish I had more information, but I can't tell you much right now. The notes from my old (i.e. ripoff garage) diagnosis just say "Front differential is seeping fluid. Resealing cover and changing fluid."

Ahh, I'm on the hunt for an old-school mechanic. And I do hope your area friend chimes in! See my longer reply below

If you indeed have a harmonic balancer for a 3AC engine, I would LOVE to take one off your hands. Shipping? I might have you send it to my mechanic in Portland (I wish I knew how to work on engines).

Thanks so much!

[emilyrobin]

Alright! Thanks so much, everyone, for piping in. It's such a relief to come here and be able to understand things in simple terms.

I had a hunch the o-rings/seals weren't that difficult to find, which still leaves me wondering why my mechanic is grumbling...but I do like this shop because they diagnosed all of my issues last year for free, and compassionately went through the receipt of work I had done at another shop (who promptly ripped me off, because I hadn't gotten into home repair yet). Gave me cheaper prices and just a better, thriftier sense than the other place.

The cost of repairs (not to mention time spent) isn't really a deterrent for me at this point, because now I'm invested in doing it myself and cheaply wherever possible, and also because I've learned so much by DIYing it (thanks, forum)

SO I went to the Pick & Pull today and had a damn good time. There's a 1983 4wd there that just arrived on Monday...barely picked at all. Pulled off a front rearview mirror (mine is cracked) and FINALLY found a "Toyota 4WD" emblem that's missing from my front grill. It's the little things, right? Also scored an original tire iron set in the back seat!

Anyone have luck salvaging those hatchback hydraulic supports? (Mine are going south, fast)

I also got a good look at the 3AC harmonic balancer, but two well-meaning guys (who probably saw me as lady-in-distress and needed to express their masculinity) pried open the grill and cut all of the belts first thing -- including the belt holding the HB to the engine, so there wasn't any resistance in the opposite direction. So cranking on the nut only started turning the engine, not removing it!

But if I can find a harmonic balancer on here I'll TAKE IT!

[dlb]

even the belts on the crank pulley will not hold it in place when you try to remove its bolt. i think most people stuff rope into the first cylinder when the piston is at the bottom, just before its compression stroke, so that when they go to undo the pulley bolt, the rope prevents the piston from going any further. i like to make sure it's on the compression stroke so that the valves are not sticking down into the chamber where they might get damaged by the piston pushing the rope into them. i don't think damage from that is likely but it only takes a few more seconds and is insurance against not having to do more work later.

[Gottolovem]

The hatch struts are easy to replace if hatch in the j yard is holding itself up ok then there good struts i belive a 12mm open end wrench will unscrew them from the car and hatch it could be a 10mm. BE CAREFUL after the first one is undone the hatch will want to fall on your head through out the rest of the removal get a stick or something to hold it up till you finish.
As to the harmonic balancer the one i have is on a low compression motor let me see if i can get it off without any issues before i offer to send it your way.

[Petros]

getting that harmoic balancer off can be a real bear if you are not properly equipped. With the correct tools you will have it off in a ten to 15 min. You have to stop the engine from turning, the fan belts would not have done that. The cord in the spark plug hole is the easiest way as DLB outlines (stuff lots of cord in there so it will stop the engine). the front nut can either be a 17 mm or 19 mm, you can use a 3/4" socket and a big breaker bar, usually adding a cheater pipe over the handle to give you more leverage. once the nut is off you will have to wiggle off the HB, usually it slips off after a couple of sharp wraps with a rubber mallet or block of wood (pull on opposite sides back and fourth and it will works its way off). sometimes they have gunk or corrosion and more aggressive measures have to be done, be careful about prying on it with a large screw driver or a pry bar because you can damage the pulley. Usually hitting it on opposite sides with a big soft hammer (rubber or plastic) is knock it loose. sometimes you have to revert to using a puller, you can rent a puller from any Autozone at no cost, you pay for it and and than they refund you the money when you bring it back (tell them you need to rent a front pulley/harmonic balancer puller, they will know what you need). I have seldom needed the puller, but to make sure you can get it in one trip best to pick one up before you go back to get the front HB.

Doing your own repairs is one of the most frustrating but also the most rewarding things you might do that will save you lots of real money. Once you have tackled a number of major repairs yourself it will also give you a sense of confidence about being able afford keeping your car running no matter what happens to it. Running a repair shop is costly, and the customer pays all that overhead, that is even if the shop is honest and competent. More typically you also pay for the shops mistakes, and dishonest as well. The older Tercels are a great car to learn on because even most major operations are straight forward and easy to do and understand, with the correct information (that is where this forum comes in). You should not need to spend more than about $100 for all the tools you need for most basic repairs, and you usually can rent what ever else you need.

good luck.

[Gottolovem]

Emilyrobon
I can mail a harmonic balancer to your mechanic If you like ONE MILLION DOLLARS
How does 40 bucks shipped sound i will need an address